ke70dave

hey mate, have a bit of a search around. the 3k head is the slightly bigger ports, but it is now a minimum of 35yrs old. best bet is to get the newest 4k head you can find, and get it ported better than the 3k head could ever be.

that is a pretty nifty looking tacho, i reckon if you put that tacho on top of your dash, and a cop pulled you over and said "WTF is that, its blocking your view, would you like a defect" you could say, no sir, that is a compass, and it needs to up high so i don't get interference from the steel body. A compass was standard issue back in 1960, as well as a sextant, but i lost the sextant. GPS's werent invented back then.

on your scooter?

woooahh! slow down man! can you please explain the symptoms in a bit more detail to us.

whast with the police pulling some one over...the person pulls over and parks hard up against the shoulder or where you would normally park. the police car pulls up, but positions his car half on the road and half off the road.... so pasing cars must swerve around, or if its a 2 lane road, those in the left lane have to merge into the right lane to avoid hitting the cop car. am i the only one that has noticed this? anyone have a decent explanation for it? all i can think of is that they are trying to protec themselvs as they stand next to the car they pulled over. but surely creating a traffic hazzard is just as bad.

i reckon its pronounced "qwafe" i highly suggest against the s13 gear.

edit: DAMN YOU BLZBUB!!! you have pretty much summed it up already, you just need to dig deeper. when you turn the fan to "hot" the following occurs: coolant enters your car via a hole in the fire wall, at the firewall is a tap, when you turn the thing to "blow hot air" mode, it opens this tap, allowing water to flow. once it gets into your interiour it goes into a little radiator. behind this radiator is a fan. in front of this radiator is a pipe. this pipe goes to your vents. the fan blows air through the radiator, heats up the air, blows it through the pipes, and up through vents to keep you and your passengers warm. once the water has gone through the radiator, it goes back out through the firewall, back into your engine. So, where do you think the water is leaking from?

don't use a u-bolt.... as in a months time, the ubolt will come undone and you will be under there again. take it to an exhaust shop, he will weld on a hanger in about 46seconds.

could be. whats your exhaust setup? on the oem headers i had it was 4-2-1, and at the 4-2 flange there was 2 ceramic gaskets, i blew this out once, made a heck of a noise under load, nothing really on cruise. could be any gasket really. with exhaust leaks the more accell you put down, the more it will make the noise. especailly bad at low rpm and high throttle input.

n4h 4 f0ur l00ks ju5t l1k3 4n A.

all things aside, nice looking car mate!!! but yeah definately look into some better tyres, any of those optiosn up there will be a huge improvement over the NS2's. just have to watch the prices in that tyre size. i would even look at dropping the wheel size down to 15 or 16" to reduce the cost of tyres. 185/60/R13 toyo R888's do an amazing job of handling the ~320hp of my mates turbo rotary. but even that size were ~$300 each tyre.

I'm going to guesss....exhaust leak.

Nankang........they aren't tyres. They are ice skates. I had nankang ns2 on my s15, absolutely useless tyres. Grab some toyo r888 to go with that engine/car combo!

or if you can't buy it from a suspension shop, go to the wreckers and climb under any old RWD toyota you can find and find something that is the same. it is only the lenght and ball joint compatibility that makes the xt130 control arms so saught after. the other end, i hypothesise, is the same as a stack of other cars from the same era.

i think if you think its too powerful with an LSD, the best option is to turn down the power, or train your right foot to not be so agressive. or perhaps look into, better tyres, wheel alignemnt, check all the bushes in the car - especailly the rear end.

condolences to you and your family mate. I read about this in the news. Gives a whole new perspective when you hear of someone who was close to the person in the story.

a bunch of wiring diagrams here http://www.club4ag.com/technical_main.htm

hi mate, pending on how far you lowered it have a look at the options in here. http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/archive/index.php/t-1115.html my understanding is the ke30 shock mounts are the same as the ae86/ke30. so pretty much all the options above will work. in my old ke70 i had commondore wagon lowered shocks, which were part number 343113. best to check the length of your shocks at static height, and make sure it falls in about the middle of the stroke.

i reckon a 38mm external gate is a sliiiigghtt over kill on a 4k turbo! i always wanted to try one of the old falcon throttle body injection systems on a 4k. i reckon thats got to be the easiest way to get some injectors/EFI onto a 4k.

welcome mate. here is how you figure it out for yourself, then you can do it next time :wink: figure out the factory ke70 wheel. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/73392-need-original-track-width-wheel-specs-ke70-ae71-xt130-needed-engineering.html from this the concensus seems to be 13*5 +32 so then you take your new specs (13x5.5 0 or +10). and plug both these numbers in to this: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp i used +5mm (half way between both numbers you gave) now the website sais, it will give you an EXTRA 21mm of clearance to the inside of the strut, good! but that wheel will EXTEND an additional 33mm towards the guard, which isnt that drastic, as the oem wheels stick in about half a mile from the guard. but to make sure, find something that is 33mm thick (make something temporary, bits of old wood, anything that is 33mm thick) shove it between the wheel and the hub, bolt the wheel on, and see where it is going to sit. then you will know for sure how your proposed wheels fill fit ;) also, 5.5" is damn skinny still.... why not go for something you can get a bit of tyre onto? go for a 7" +13 or so, they sit real nice with a 195 tyre on a ke70. 5.5".....still dealing with cheese cutters for tyres.

What the hell is a 'boss'

4age's are fast? and not old school? you could get a 4age that is over 25hrs old! thats old! what about a 4ac, overhead camshaft, old, 1.6L, bolt into a ke70 if required, t50 box is pretty good. an abundance of parts from the ae82s, ae92s etc.

it might be worth noting that there is alot of good info on the club4ag.com website in the reference section http://www.club4ag.com/technical_main.htm even plenty of misc fun info like the "4age scrapbook" lots of old brochures etc.

i dunno if fuel is a good lubricator, you might not have an engine to supply fuel to if you keep that up! i see no reason for an electric one, just get a new mech one? edit: the oil pressure idea is nifty, but you would need to hook it up so that it activated on "start" on the key. so it went when you pressed start, kept going when you had oil pressure, but turned off with no oil pressure or no start.

big job even with the right tools...... i don't think this is something we can instruct you on. more a case of, go and buy some steel, an angle grinder, a big hammer, a drill and a few beers. take it all out to your engine, and stare at it untill a good idea pops into your head on how you are going to mount it. Oh, and google it. here is some info, sc12, but same concept. http://www.kp61.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4367 and alot of photos. http://www.romut-radalle.com/viewgal.php?gid=248〈=en found that on my second search in google.