ke70dave

ahhhh.... id be checking your wiring then. got something connected to the "cranking" pin on the ECU? http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pages/ECU%20Japan%20AE86%204A-GE.htm pin3 on the 10pin plug. though i belive it should still go without that...just hard to start. sounds like something is amiss wiring wise.

I thought the idea of group C racing was that they raced cars that were very closely related to cars that you or i (at the time) could buy from the local dealer. holdens, fords, mustangs. appart from the safety gear, and bolt on bits, the car was the same as you could buy. looked the same appart from a spoiler or two etc. these days v8 super cars are exactly that v8 super cars, not holdens or fords at all. which is a bit sad they have gone this way. i mean its cool technology, but its sort of lost its roots a bit. you can't buy anythign that even remotely resembles a v8 supercar. appart from the badge.

yep. put some white out on the timing mark on the crank pulley so you can see it easier. connect timing light. get your mate to turn over engine. shoot timing light at crank pulley. if you can't see the mark your way off. if you can just see the mark way off in the distance (uber advanced or uber retarded) you know which way you need to go. when you line up the distributer with cylinder 1 ignition lead, take note that when you insert the distributer into the head, the dizzy shaft turns about 1 tooth worth (helical gears i belive is the reason for this). so you can be 1 tooth out (which is 30 degrees..significant) without knowing. so the distributer needs to be lined up with clylinder lead 1 when the distrubuter is all the way in.

is the oem a torsen? torsen not a bad LSD at all.

got a timing light? that will tell you. you don't NEED to do the T1-E1 thing to get it running. from memory if you don't have the t1-e1 linked you get about 16degrees BTDC timing at idleish. connect those pins and it drops it to about 10deg BTDC. it will run in a massive range, i think i even had it running on something like 10degress After TD....and something rediculous like 40 BTDC. it doesnt run very well......but it did run. best bet is to keep trying to start it will spinning the dizzy slowly one side to the other. you might be very close. just need to adjust it. but yeah get a timing light, all will be revealed.

yeah cost me 200bucks to get 2 calipers done maybe 1.5yrs ago. come out lookin brand new though, sand blasted, painted, stainless insert and piston, new seals everywhere. best bet is to land the caliper on their desk and ask them what they recommend. I don't recognise the part in the photo, if it is just a dust boot, that could be cheap to buy from them.

around the piston? still not sure what you mean. o-rings? if the calipers are leaking fluid between the bore and the piston, then your best bet is to get both calipers overhauled. you might have rusty bores. your thingo sais brisbane, http://www.yellowpages.com.au/qld/wynnum/master-cylinder-exchange-service-wynnum-13926220-listing.html this company i have had many calipers and masteryclinders fixed. they do a fine job. you might even be able to buy the caliper rebuild kit and DIY it. i have always got them to properly overhaul things, stainless steel inserts etc.

what brake seal we talkin about here?

How much money? don't spend too much, its only a k motor afterall. all you need to know is here! http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor

i think that extra plug is stuff that goes to the interiour loom up to the dash. stuff like check engine light, charge light, oil light etc. key word here is "think". looks like you are going well though.

hey mate. ill try and give a quick run down. there are 2 main reasons why you would want to build your own sleave kit. (appart from the ride height adjustablility) a) you want to use a short stroke shock absorber in a shock tube with a spring perch, but with the short stroke shock installed the spring perch is in the wrong spot, so you need to make a new spring perch, ie...the threaded bit of the sleeve kit b) at the ride height you want to run, the wheels you want to run hit the standard spring perches. now cutting stuff. (using gineric numbers here, but i don't have access to real numbers, but you get the idea) If you don't understand why you need short stroke shock absorbers, have a search on the google machine, and if you get stuck let me know i can explain that too. say a xt130 strut tube is 500mm long from the base till the gland nut. a short stroke shock absorber to be used may have a body length of 400mm. so when you slide the shock into the strut tube, there is now ~100mm between the top of the shock body, and where the gland nut is. the gland nut needs to be at the same height as the top ofthe shock body to hold it in. so what you do is you cut 100mm out of the shock tube, and weld it back together. so now the shock tube is ~100mm shorter, but the gland nut tightly holds the shock in place. (when i made my coilovers, i used ae86 struts, and rear SW20 shocks (which are short stroke), i had to cut about 60mm out of the tube, your shock absorber choice basically governs how much you need to cut out.) doing this cutting usually involves removing the standard lower spring perch, and if try and keep it, because the lower spring perch is ~100mm lower, the spring perch will interfere with the tyre/wheel. enter....the coilover kit. coilover springs are only ~70mm OD, as opposed to stnadard springs maybe 180mm OD. so this allows the wheel and tyre to fit on as you have ~55mm extra clearance. now it is your choice where you weld the coilover kit on, BUT you want to pick a ride height, and design your coilover setup (both the shock absorber choice, amount you cut and coilvoer kit position) to ensure that at static ride height the shock absorber can be positioned in about the centre of its stroke. so you have equal bump and equal rebound on the shock. the reason that xt130 shock tubes are popular is that they have a large diamter shock tube internal diameter that allows a greater choice of good shock abosrbers to fit in. same diameter as ae86 ones so anything that fits an ae86 shock tube (lots of good aftermarket shocks) also fits in an xt130. (cut to suit of course) there are also plenty of xt130s at the wreckers, and you get better brakes than ke70 and adm ae86, though the discs are still solid not vented.

geez thats a bit rough of ch7.

the F1 on chanel 10 is pathetic. crossing between commentators, advertisements and advertisements, and yeah those advertisements are annoying too. i just download it after the race and watch the whole BBC coverage add free.... also there is a streaming website i have discovered, vipbox.tv not the greatest quality, but good to have on when its not on TV (qualifying and practice etc) they do show the main event, but gets a bit sketchy as i suspect alot of people stream it then.

cut it to suit mate. they certainly don't come anywhere near ready to go in. did it once a few yrs ago. pulled everthing out of the car that had anything to do with the carpet......put new carpet in, cut where required. take your time, took a few hrs, looked good though.

also that link only has 1 pinout? just for the 3 plugs on the ecu. and up the top there is a quick guide on what you need to connect in the way of powers etc for the conversion.

Pull.the case off your ecu, all the pins are labeled. Then you can cross reference to the diagram. I'm under the impression all big ports are the same though. Small port is different.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-1300-1981-1984-Gregorys-Owners-Service-Repair-Manual-/360448097479?pt=AU_Non_Fiction_Books_2&hash=item53ec617cc7

http://www.topgear.com/uk/car-news/ferrari-250-gto-thrashed-jeremy-clarkson-2012-04-19 the video down the bottom, chuck it in HD and sit back and enjoy.

love it! that sounds fantastic. i spot tuning software on that lappy.....what ecu you got going there?

yep! http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pages/ECU%20Japan%20AE86%204A-GE.htm but! if you can't find a ae86 or ae82 one, i heard a rumour that the camry of the same era was the same (sv21 with 3sfe), and also maybe the celica of the same era (st162 with 3sfe or 3sge). referece to this rumour http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/archive/index.php/t-36644.html

that video was awesome.

ooOOOOoooh thats a cool idea. i suppose the downside is you lose ~60mm of compression. but if you use a decent weight spring i reckon youd never bottom them out. nice product.

whats a T3 gland nut?

spacers don't really help if you go too low though. i fit ae92 shocks into my ae86 struts, but i cut ~60mm off the strut tube first. then at lowered height the shock sat pretty much exactly in the middle of the stroke.