ke70dave

yeah i reckon thats dodgy. my old nardi had rips all over it, but the stitching was in tact and looked like proper stitching. where did you get it?

So very true.

how do you explain this then

I think everyone needs to make their own decision based on the evidence they see. But to me i reckon you need just as much faith to belive soley in science as you do to belive soley in alternative world views.

if you are going to use a 185...might as well just get a 7" you need to do a bit of measuring. compare your current wheels to your new ones with this http://www.1010tires...tCalculator.asp then go to the car with a ruler and check how they fit. those sized wheels are pretty nuts, i don't belive you are going to be able to fit them without a lot of work..... i had 15x7 +13 with 195/50 tyres (proper sized for the wheel) on the back of my ke70, and they JUST fit with oem arches and a slight roll..(note they never scrub)...assuming you are going to put the 9 -10's on the back, with proper sized tyres (225/235 wide is about 9"), you are going to need to find an extra 50mm of clearance out compared to my wheels. that wont be easy without something either welded on, or some bolt on guards.

with strut braces, the actual bolt holes are the same from ke70 to ae86, and it seems "some" fit length ways. best to get one that has slight length adjustment, then it will definately fit. after ~30yrs, no two chassis are the same......

I don't belive the 4age ecu does anything "learning" wise except for cruise mode, where it uses the 02 sensor, which you don't have..... :P

13 is still above 12 though, which is enough to run the car. i reckon you have got a bung sensor somewhere if its running rich. really need to try and clear those diagnostic codes.

Alternator might be over charging, regulator might be on the blink. Chuck a multi meter on your battery when car is running?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwfdYnSj5Vg last ~40secs features a corolla.

pearl paint is very exy.

no dramas, yeah the conversion is quite well documented around. the way to do it proeprly would get an aftermarket ecu to run it all, and make sure everything is safe. but we got both engines for like 200bucks each or something complete, knowone wants n/a ca18's. and $400 is alot less than the price of an ecu! and those 2 engines lasted about 6months each or so. AND we both agree that with a rev limiter both engines could have lasted alot longer. with 185 tyres and drifting its very easy to rev it too far...

yep didnt open the motor. nah the restricter thingis part of the OEM setup on the ca18det, but of course the ca18de doesnt have it. its a port on the block, which i think had a bolt in it on the ca18de? can't recall. but you need to mimic the ca18det setup on the ca18de else you will over oil the turbo and destroy it. sort of talked about here http://forums.nicocl...or-t224772.html also the issue you refer to, the oil not being able to drain from the head, is a different issue, and i think that is partly to blame for our 2 engines. i belive the solution is putting an oil drain in one of the cam covers, and drain it to the sump. very very simliar to what the smallport 4age has.

nope. what we did. bought CA18de with an auto gearbox. bought blown up CA18det with a 5speed gearbox. put everything from ca18det onto ca18de. inlet manifold,gearbox, injectors, loom, ecu, turbo, sump. anything that different on the turbo engine was transfered to the non turbo engine. we had to do somethign funky with the oil feed for turbo, can't exactly recall, but you have to remember to put the proper sized restrictor in the line. inserted ca18de +t into car. Made our own intercooler pipes, and got a custom exhaust made up.

you know what does go well a ca18de with all the turbo gear attached from a ca18det the ca18de is higher compression and has different cams i belive. we did this in a mates ae86 a few yrs ago, it was a rocket ship. the high compression is AWESOME with turbo. just becareful as the ca's don't have a rev limiter. thats how we destroyed not 1, but 2 engines. both by big end failures, and the 2nd engine actually seized. holy dooly we had fun doing it though.

nope and nope. don't go overboard with the oil, a few Ml. don't pour it in. just enough to lubricate the piston on the bore. don't swing off your spanner either, if its not going to move, don't force it, but if its been shipped it might just be a little tight and oil will help it.

i think your over thinking it mate. first step, put a bit of oil down each spark plug. leave spark plugs out. and try it again. back and forwards.

stuffed hot water service. First morning this year i have thought it was quite chilly geting out of bed. cold shower. Now to wait for the land lord to fixit.

enjoy the trip guys, id be there but we have engagment party on saturday. id highly suggets a stereo carlos.....even if you just rig one up to the battery with some long leads twisted around the terminal, with some hifi speakers sitting on your dash. the speaker they provide is only 1 speaker for starters....so you are running in mono....and its tiny! you can't watch two movies back to back with speakers like that!

pretty cool concept, seems like a bit of a gimic though. i guess the selling catch phrase is somethig like "get stronger bite out of your clutch with no extra pedal effort, and some additional rotating inertia" just get a decent pressure plate, and put up with the additional pedal effort. But we are talking about a k motor here, must be a hand grenade motor to require a clutch any bigger than something off the shelf, or a modified pressure plate.

did it fix it? how far were the gaps out?

http://www.otomoto.com.au/c/4073478/1/used-wheels.html this guy always has cool wheels for sale.

hmmm that spike idea is weird, never heard of that. mine was like this http://files.aeu86.org/forum/files/thumbs/t_dsc01452.jpg

the big question is, how did you replace the points in a bigport distributer? They don't have points. id be looking at your TPS. unplug that, see if it fixes the problem. there is a little switch in the tps that tells the ecu its at idle (or zero throttle), if the adjustment is out, it might think your at idle when you are trying to drive. not good. if you unplug it the engine will still run "fine", just not as agressive on throttle input (what i found anyway) oh and check the gap in the manual, and gap it yourself using feeler gauges. i don't trust the gaps from the factory, could have been bumped etc. best to set them yourself.

hah! when i was buying my subi, i found 1 i liked, rang them, and they said nah i decided to keep it for another month, you can buy it then. i asked 'is it forsale or not, if its not why is the add still up', they got a little angry but still wanted me to come and see it, but not buy for a month, so i just said thankyou for your time and hung up.