ke70dave

I always get my hydraulic hoses made up at the local hydraulic shop, i tell them what it is to be used for, they suggest the components, they cost stuff all, and they pressure test it to 1 million PSI right in front of me. (nb test pressure might be slight exadurated) i woudl make them myself like you do irokin, but i can't pressure test them myself unfortunately.

yeah a few more details. the one time i stuffed a differential in my car, i just bought a complete differential and swapped it over. i hate playing with differential oil.

where did you put the temp sender for your new fan controller?

when you running a 16v/20V is exactly the time you need to consider weight! Such underpowered things need all the help they can get! haha from what i can gather, the easiest way to improve the handling of a vehicle is to shed some weight from the unsprung weight.

the thing worth considering is wheel weight. alot of these cheaper wheels are SOO HEAVY.

hahaha i enjoyed that little story. ive don't simliar things, worked out you can do something, and wanna go nuts with it... i went through a bolt phase a few yrs back on the corolla, found i could buy nice new shiny bolts for dirt cheap to replace the rusty old ones... so i bought 40 million of them and got about 10 swapped over and got bored of that. still have a few boxes of bolts somewhere.....

welded diff is for the backyard bogans who have borrowed their mates welder, they just fill the thing up with welding rods untill its locked up....the worst way to lock a diff. i was under the impression that a "mini spool" replaces a small part of the diff, possibly the spider gears, in order to lock up the diff. i think this is probably the 2nd best way to "lock a diff" a full spool reaplaces everything except the crown wheel, and i think is a probably the best way to lock a differential. a Detroit locker is quite a nifty device. not entirely sure on how it works, i did read up on it once but can't remember, it is a form of LSD, but it seems to be more suited to 4wd's and/or trucks, that need the traction for towing or climbing rocks, rather than drifting or racing. from what i remember from reading others experiences, the detroit lockers when used in a road/race car can be a bit agricultural.

My fourite thing to see is people paying mroe for 30yr old parts, when they could buy brand new or custom made ones for the same price or a slight margin. the tailshaft one is great, see genuine 30yr old JDM AE86 tofu delivery van tailshafts that have been sitting in the rain for 6months with rusty yokes that wont seal for $300. brand new custom made 1 peice balanced tail shaft with brand new yokes can be had for around $400. or clutch master and slave, soft and hard hydraulic line off a JDM ae86 tofu delivery van that have been sitting in the rain for 6 months. you can buy the whole lot brand new, with an ADR approved braided line for less than what they ask for it but people still buy this old buggered 2nd hand stuff!!! that $600 thrashed T50 (driven for 2 drift sessions) is about as bad as it gets.

thats not very nice springersrolla....... ke55reppin, as springersrolla eluded to, this has been covered a few times. here is a thread with a bit of info. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/16786-5k-into-ke55/ essentailly the 5k is almost identical to the 4k, except it has a few more CC's. as for differentials, unfortunately pretty much anythign that isnt standard will need some fairly decent mods to fit. what do you want a different differential for?

using my new auto darkening welding helmet. wow its awesome.

where did you get the FWD 4age flywheel from? do you know if it is to suit a 200mm or 212mm clutch?

Anything that is not the standard one (or a derivative of) will be an expensive exercise. The question is, what do you consider expensive? Ie what's your budget and skill level?

yeah i reckon a zetec would be fun, where do you even get a zetec from though? they were in the UK sierras or something? quite exy as far as i can tell. i find it interesting how boring ford is in AUS, yet the UK ford produced some epic cars. its still hard to think of the AU falcon, and the RS sierras as both being "ford"....

mmm not sure. id think id go a modern engine with a classic car. seen a few sr20det mk1 cortinas. I reckon that would be a hoot to drive.

i had a ke70 for about 5yrs - sold it about 1yr ago. (had all the gineric mods, 4age, ae86 suspension, quad lights, etc etc) then i bought an s15 but only had that for abotu 10months, was alright, but 2 door sucked. great car to drive though. currently rockin a stock MY00 WRX (original shape) - its good fun, pretty comfy. kinda boring compared to the ke70 though. yearning for a new project car, something old and classic.

who knows. but I'm starting to discover you can buy some way awesome cars for the same price or a bit more than what ke70s seem to be going for lately. exhibit A) http://www.carsales.....5&sort=default my grinds my gears is that i currently have no time, or spare money to buy something like that.

yeah i was going to say sub $1000.... maybe a tad over if you can supply a RWC. supply on an RWC is worth ALOT on old cars. to pass a legitimate RCW pretty much everything that could ever need to be replaced on a 30yr old car, either has been replaced or needs to be replaced.

id say so. i would fix that asap. chuck a multi meter on your battery should be about 13-14V with engine running. and drop to 12v when you turn it off.

i think there is alot of emphasis on buying stuff to make your car drift. Best of getting out there and practising. in the words of a famous dodgeball coach: 'if you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a dodgeball' (disclaimer: there = on a track, dodge = drift, wrench = combi van, dodgeball = drift car)

i consfused. retarting timing too much? you set the base timing with the vac pipe off around 8-10 BTDC at idle. done that yeah?

id block that hole off first, carbies don't like air going in in anythign else than than through the airfilter. Just get a bit of vac hose on the thingo and put a screw in the free end to block it. id start off with the basics to be honest. so you got a good base to start with. -make sure no vacuum leaks (like that hole you might have found there) make sure all the bolts that hold the carby down are tight. -get a can of carby cleaner, open the air filter, spray the crap out of the inside of the carby, start the car (it will take a bit...), and keep on spraying it in untill it looks brand new. you wil need to keep the engine running as the carby cleaner tries to kill it, bit tricky with one person, you can do it though. -check your ignition timing, ignition points gap, general spark plug and lead condition.

all things asside. the little flapper cap on the end of the "exhaust" is stinkin awesome. mack truck style

The problem is, the more popular it gets, the more the govt will change the rebate prices. not bad if you can get it locked in though, and pay back the initial cost of the panels reasonably quick. my parents got one of the smaller ones a few months back, it certainly does alright according to the little meter, not got a power bill yet so time will tell.

ahh early july, youve got untill the begining of july before you need to worry about that.