ke70dave

Hi, Can you please provide a price. It is either forsale or not, EOI's not allowed. cheers.

If you can dream it, you can do it. And if you really want something that can't be mod plated....there is always the individually constructed car option. Big bucks.

Moved to k motor discussion. I dunno the answer but give it a google;)

whered you get that info from? i suspect there are quite a few shocks that fit, i heard rumous that some sort of VW golf fit as well. link to rumour http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/26903-ke70-suspension-questions/page__st__15

very difficult to diagnose over the internets, but yeah certainly doesnt sound good. just make sure it isnt something simple first. ancilaries playing up, clutch maybe, water pump maybe (i dunno, just check all the things easier to fix things you might miss before you rip it appart...)

could be anything really. id whip off the rocker cover and inspect the valve train, turn the engine over with the rocker cover off and check to see if its all working as it should (cut the spark though).

hahahaha! yeah i read that advert the other day and thought to my self "gee thats such a back yad hack with a price tag 3x what the cars worth (sorry for sounding like a tosser just sick of looking at over priced cars that are apparently clean and awesome.)" brilliant.

1994 toyota lexcen, ie VR commodore. got it for free 5yrs ago, been driven into the ground. i think its done alright. but yes, economical write offs are a bit sad, but in this case, the whole car is 110% stuffed!

yeah hard to understand exactly what you mean without a real photo. but the reality is that the original mount "circle" is welded onto the shock tube, so in theory welding another one woudlnt be that bad. it sounds dodgy though and one must ask why they did it. what sort of shocks are they? if they arent anything special sell them on, and buy some brand new proper shocks. ah i re read, if the first hoop 'doesnt fit' then the shocks are far too short anyway, sounds like they might be the sierra shocks or some other uber uber short stroke thing. in the bin with them, and get something proper length. they should fit no problems with the car off the ground. having no rebound in your shock extension is a sure fire way to bounce yourself off the road! KYB 343113 is the short stroke commondore shock that fits good with lowered springs. cheap as in KYB excel G.

fiance ran her car dry of water the other day. i did a few tests, discovered that the radiator was buggered. so i get new radiator, few days later chuck in radiator. fire it up yesterday, and its just pumping white smoke ou the back, and leaving oil trails wherever it goes. suspected broken * some sort of ring * on the piston. she really cooked the engine good. Time to bin the car.

yeah i just had a cable from a manual ke70 (4 speed), and it plugged straight into the T50, and with the correct sized tyres (195/50r15) it even gave a speedo reeding that was +/-2km or something.

My standard ke70 Speedo cable worked fine in the t50? Nice progress though!

its a shame there is that crack in the windscreen, else i would have just suggested to keep on driving it....replacing the windscreen forces you to fix the rust:( and yep, anything more than a ~10mm chip is not repairable. Have a crack at it i say, rip that windscreen out and see what you have to deal with. you may find you need to add some metal though, or at least some fibreglass. keep in mind a windscreen man wont put a new windscreen in a car that hasnt been repaird properly.

corollas or not, that sort of setup is the dream of any car enthusiast.

where is the "lone stud"? i confused.

there are two different types too. one you attach the clutch disk to the pressure plate, line it up so its in the middle, and then hope it lines up when you bolt it all together. the other type is just like a input shaft, bit of plastic that goes into the flywheel, and the clutch plate is centred on the tool (the one i used was sort of cone shaped. ive had success with both, but both times been very fidly generally had 2 goes bolting the pressure plate on. ive also had success by bolting the pressure plate on loosly and using the gearbox itself as the aligning tool, then pulling the gearbox back off again just enough to get a spanner in and tighten up the pressure plate bolts to hold the clutch disk in place. its very fidly...but it has worked... nothing beats a spare input shaft.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6L-j6s9OPU&feature=relmfu

i struggle to find a good reason to get frustrated at someone doing just on the speed limit. That is the limit. I'm not sure if the above was directed in response to my post, but like i said originally i was doing exactly on the limit if not 1 or 2 km over. Certainly not under. which is why i was commented on the guy that just had to get in front of someone (ie me) doing the speed limit. I Can't see the logic there. had i been doing 75 in the 80, then sure my driving is causing others to get frustrated. I too hate it when people that go under the limit, then back up, then over the limit etc. The worst is when they do it on country roads, then speed up in the overtaking lanes....

I'd call that testing a success. i love it!

Ignition could be breaking down, carbs generally work better when warm.

I think its better to be thought of as a muppet than to open your mouth (er...keyboard) and remove all doubt! Sounds like you need to chill out. Sure i hate people that can't keep a constant speed, but in the case above, i was keeping constant 80km/h on the dot. then 70km/h on the dot. and i know my speedo is accurate..... Going 105km/h, 5km over the limit, on a 100km trip, equates to a time saving time of 3mins.

ive been noticing recently a large amount of road rage, which seems to be fueled by pure impatience. i generally stick to exactly the speed limit, no more no less, if its 60 i do 60, if its 70 i do 70. seems to be alot of people that hate the idea of doing the speed limit, they MUST do 5km over. and if you are doing the limit, they stick on your tail untill they see a free opportunity and blast past, only to pull in front of you and do 5km over. not to mention it seems they hate the idea of NOT being in front, they want to be first and infront. this morning some muppet tailgating me in the 80km zone, it drops to 70, he tailgates worse, then proceeds to overtake over a painted "don't drive here" section (it was near road works, it was like an entry lane for trucks or something) blasts on past at warp speed, just about takes out the car merging on the other side (the reason it drops to 70....). What is wrong with these people?

4k = 1300cc, 5k = 1500cc the concensus seems to be that a 5k is better than a 4k in all aspecs. how much better, i guess you can take judge it on the capacity, 5k is 15% better than the 4k!

yeah the jets is the big one. using purely theoretical ideas...and how i would approach it from a standing start... you would need to ensure that the carby can flow the requied amount of air (assuming maximum VE @ maximum revs for a conservative approach). you may find that a 600cc @ 12,000rpm, might be in the ball park of a 1300cc @ 7000rpm. which it probably is quite close so hopefully only small mods are required. And at that amount of air flow, ensure you can modify whatever you need to to ensure the carby can supply that fuel at that air flow. Carbys are amazing yet fairly simple devices to modify if you know what you are doing. might even be worth dropping down to your local bike tuning shop and see what they reckon on the limitations of bike carbs, they might even be able to suggest a specific carby that is easy to modify or can get you close to your goal from the get go. what i would avoid doing is buying a set of bike carbs, slapping it on, and hoping for the best. do all your research before spending a dime!

that is my understanding also.