ke70dave

there isnt alot of wires in a ke70 engine bay though... The coil has to be grounded though for the lot to work i think? could be an issue if you just painted the bay.

incorrect.

lol at "flat caps"

as far as i am aware there is onyl 2 type of distributers for the 4age 16V, 4 wire and 3 wire. potentially different plugs, but the wiring is the same for all the 4 wires and all the 3 wires. do these to plugs plug together?

hmmmm thats an interesting one. ive never seen any evidence to suggest a brake caliper is designed for the disc to sprin in one direction. given your brakes work good in reverse usually.... i guess if you think about it from an alignemnt point of view, does anything you have done have an effect on : -camber (what did you do with the strut tops) -castor (what did you do with the strut tops) -toe (nope no problem as tie rod connects to steering arm) -king pin inclination (i can't see how you would have changed this given you havent modified the stub axel right?) The only real drama i can see is the little bracket for the brake hose, which might work anyway?

TPS is 4 pins in a row. http://i47.tinypic.com/2ljrjx0.jpg the yellow round plugs are either distributer or air temp sensor on the inlet manifold. they are both yellow from what i recall. MAP from a quick google search appears to be round and yellow too... the green round one goes to your ignitor. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/442/p1010007oz9.jpg/ that white wire with a few wires attached i THINK is for the 02 sensor. thats the only one i can think of with shielding. essentially if its got a plug on the end, it can only attach to one device. if it has no plug get the color of the wire and compare it to a wiring diagram. or follow it back to the ECU, get the ECU pinouts from club4ag.net, and see what it sais.

there was a bloke on here that did it. but i can't find it atm. it was a ~ke30 panel van or wagon from what i recall. the big issue is what to do with the distributer. the rest of the conversion seemed quite similar, if not identicle to the 4age conversion. so essentially it woudl be almost the same as doing a 20V conversion, wtih the distributer and possibly cooling pipe hurdels to cross.

The pmpo power rating is great.

that is some weird suspension! yep as parrott sais on the gbox, gotta get an A series box. as for the wiring room, given you arent putting this in a car, you don't look like you are restricted at the back of the head (where the distributer lives on a blacktop 20v). so i can't see any reason why you can't use the OEM wiring loom and take out what you don't need. double check how much room you have though, i see a weird cross bar thing.

depends how bad it is really. and how dodgy you are. i had a pair of SSR wheels that had major alloy corrosion. jacked up the rear of the car on stands, chucked a wedge under one side wheel so it coudlnt spin (open diff), thew a wheel on the other side. started engine, threw it in gear (started at 1st, ended up in 3rd i think). be VERY CAREFUL doing this.... wet and dry sandpaper on the alloy lip, start at 400grit, work your way up to 2000grit. then stop the wheel and get in there with an orbital polisher and some of that auto sol stuff. came up like a mirror! i got some weird looks from passes by, like theyd never seen a DIY lathe before

i think this is what you are trying to describe twinky http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161395&stc=1&d=1185512265 we got a Ngk powerdex afx the update speed is really very good, i can't exactly remember specifics, but i do rememeber thinking that it was just right for the application.

its a shame when this kind of thing happends. half the people at jaycar ive met have never opperated a soldering iron. what is the kit worth you're purchasing? we purchased a widband sensor, controller and gauge not long ago for the rx7, came with a digital read out "guage" and everything. it was around $400 i belive. can't recall what it was.....came with a bosch sensor though. been alot more reliable than the LC1 kit we had for a long time.

its similar to the effect of axel tramp, but with lowering blocks the effect is multiplied as the moment arm is increased. essentially when power is applied, the diff winds up and flexes the leaf springs in the "s" shape as below. not a big problem in stock k powered cars...as there is no power to twist the springs! the below image shows the spring twist, and also shows traction rods which help to keep the spring straight under hard acceleration.

i just spent way to much time making this i tried to make it my lil photo on the left, but its too big:(

yeah from my quick calcs that is a VERY well chosen turbo for the 4age. at that pressure ratio it is in the meat of the curve, i bet it goes well! nice choice. I'm a little skepticle of the power figure though. what RPM did you take it too?

more mufflers! and point the last muffler at the ground not straight out.

what turbo have you got running on that car kickn? where does 32psi sit on the efficiency curve? it would have to be way on the right somewhere! though a 4age is only 1.6L.

4afe only has 1 timing belt cam gear. the exhaust cam drives the inlet cam (possibly other way around, but yeah one drives the other).

ummmmmm.....just going to leave this here. and maybe this one too though i remember someone on topgear said something like, 'ferraris are good looking because we expect them to be good looking. if you took away the ferrari badge they wouldnt be as good looking as we think they are'. and i think he was right...... The above cars are still fantastic looking cars.....

yeah i dunno either. it seems every jza80 supra i see has been changed in such a way to make it damn ugly. they seem to attract modifiers with poor taste:S and also attract poorly fitting body kits. man seen some bad ones on supras. perhaps it stands out more on a supra as the front and rear bar are so....."chunky"...compared to most.. which of course is a pretty blanket statement, as I'm comparing their taste to my taste, not my fault they have bad taste:P which is a shame as they are a pretty serious bit of kit even stock. The RZ is awesome. Alloy suspension bits everywhere...and what is not to love about the 1jz motor.

that looks like it! nicely made bit of kit the oem sandwhich plate. i had a 20V one, but i never installed it (never had an oil cooler) never did an track work either, and i never had an oil temp guage to tell me if it was hot anyway!

the lines are fine, and so are all the fittings etc. so long as you have the correct sized hose for the fittings. make sure your oil cooler has some sort of flow limiter when its cold though. id suggest you use the 20V oil cooler sandwich plate (possibly the same as the one you have?), i belive it has a pressure switch in it, so it only pumps oil when your up in the revs. oh and don't use those shitty hose clamps, get the ones with the bolt. you get them from diesel spares shops.

after driving low comprsesion turbo for a while (wrx), i get into the 1.8L 7afe of my fiances, and it is 400% better between 1000-3000. sooo much more punch untill about 4500 where it becomes slugish peice of crap. i reckon a turbo 7afe would be a blast. though i suspect simliar to the ca18de + t we did a few yrs back in an ae86, that was wicked fun.

meh, plenty of high compression turbos running around. you only hear about the ones that explode.

any 4clr can be a turbo with a bit of thinking. high compression turbo is where the fun is at.