ke70dave

i don't really agree with locking distrubuters, but people seem to have success. i suspect the driveability of the car is considerably reduced. especailly trying to start a car in winter with excessive spark advance form the get go. i suppose there is no easy fix on a bitsa carby turbo though, other than locking the dizzy and hoping for the best. the model T had a lever on the steering wheel where the driver could adjust the spark advance himself (mainly so he could retard it completely, so his arm wasnt ripped off when hand cranking the engine), this is better technology on a street car than locking it completely! and that is from over 100yrs ago!! i would throw the dizzy in the bin and setup something electronic to control the spark, but that would get alot more complicated. although this is corvette material, the content applies to all engines with vac and mechanical advance distrubuters http://www.corvette-restoration.com/resources/technical_papers/Timing101.pdf very interesting reading.

not entirely sure what you are asking, but if you grab a 4k engine manual wont that give you the oem tolerances of the shaft? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1981-1985-TOYOTA-K-Series-Engine-Manual-Corolla-Liteace-Starlet-/120824061024?pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&hash=item1c21acdc60 this is the one you want. i has one (well my dad does), and its anything you ever wanted to know about oem k motors, directly from toyota.

its the same old thing though. Something is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. That applies to everything on earth, from ke70's to gold to cruise liners. going by the text only, if someone is genuinely keen for a ke70, and only a ke70 (which happends often), then yours might be "worth" a bit of cash to them, they are willing to pay it. but keep in mind, those who are looking into ke70s generally arent looking to spend much at all, ke70 generally isnt the choice of vehicle for someone with a bit of cash. Of course there are exceptions.

so i was sitting in the barber shop this morning waiting to get my hair cut. spot on the desk in front of me what was i think the latest drive or motor magazines flicking through, and i found this section, and the photos tell the rest of the story!

never OEM delivered to AUS. most setups seem to come from NZ or malaysia. not as easy as just swapping in the lights though. you need to drill some new holes to mount the lights and you also need the front beaver panel as well (or mod the aus delivered one), and some mods to the wiring. see this one from malaysia, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-KE70-TE71-TE72-AE70-AE71-Quadlights-Assembly-Chrome-CXXX-Grille-/220977205624?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3373449178

ah rally, one of the more fun ways to sandblast all the paint off the underside of a car. looks like a cool as car, and alot of those parts would be saught after. but to rebuild it? man you woudl have to be keen. the below link has been around the internet a few times, but this is the kind of restoration they are looking at. take the time to go through the 787 photos. end up with a pretty sweet car at the end. http://www.mat.fi/n_index.php?nav=gallery_view&gallery=projecttoyotacelicaturbotc35&g=13

if we're being honest....there are many many engines out there that would be just as much work to put in, and 10x better when you are done. like always, just because an engine is free, that doesnt make it a worthy recipient of an engine conversion. 22RE would be a bolt in job in the corona yeah? with the right bits? chuck on some extractors, and a decent intake while you are there and you would have a reasonable engine for very little.

much of a muchness really i think on the lower level of performance. ke70/ae71 panel vans came with 1 peice. all other ke70's 2 peice. both seem to work perfectly fine if they are balanced. i think if i put a 1 peice in over a 2 peice i would include a tailshaft hoop for my own peice of mind. don't want my car to turn into a pole volter. But plenty of cars are 1 peice with no tailshaft hoop (utes, 4wd's etc) for a manual conversion on a standard car, i would just go with a good condition OEM setup. weather it be single or dual peice.

i have also heard good things about the subaru stuff. but in the end nothign beats getting them professionally cleaned, you can watch them spraying, make sure the spray pattern is good. and as parrott sais, new seals all round makes for happy injectors.

con, it is a waste of money on aditive. pro, i see none. you wont damage them......just becareful, especailly the plugs, they can be very brittle. what makes you think the injectors need a clean?

http://modplate.com.au/ this guy is really helpful. Chatted to him a few times.

further to littered's comment, you will need to tell them how many ribs you want in the belt to. belts are described by how many ribs they have, and how long it is. or just take in your water pump pulley when you go to buy it, thats what i did a few yrs ago.

try here mate http://www.club4ag.com/technical_main.htm

in my one experience of painting a car using a spray gun and compressor... the actual spray painting part is easy as to get a half decent finish, bit of practise on a few old panels, and my mate and I just had a go at the car, and it came out pretty good. just go slow, take your time, don't be afraid to waste a bit of paint practising. sure my job wasnt perfect, but it was blue, no runs, very shiny (from the ~6 coats of clear coat), and not bad for a first go by complete amateurs. so don't stuff around with spray cans, a remotely decent gun will cost you ~$80, borrow a compressor from someone (even a hire mob may charge you $100 for a week for a huge compressor). the problem is, the better job you do with the painting, the more imperfections will stand out. and boy do they stand out. if you can see an imperfection with no paint on, it will be 500x worse with paint on. colour choice is purely personal, matte looks VERY tacky unless it is done perfectly. which unfortunately none of them ever are. i think the rumour is that to get a perfect matte job, is alot harder than getting a perfect 'ordinary' shiny job. unconfirmed, but i tend belive it. my total spray job cost was about $300 (excluding compressor), see photo: http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u166/ke70dave/ke70sold2.jpg

in my one experience of painting a car using a spray gun and compressor... the actual spray painting part is easy as to get a half decent finish, bit of practise on a few old panels, and my mate and I just had a go at the car, and it came out pretty good. just go slow, take your time, don't be afraid to waste a bit of paint practising. sure my job wasnt perfect, but it was blue, no runs, very shiny (from the ~6 coats of clear coat), and not bad for a first go by complete amateurs. so don't stuff around with spray cans, a remotely decent gun will cost you ~$80, borrow a compressor from someone (even a hire mob may charge you $100 for a week for a huge compressor). the problem is, the better job you do with the painting, the more imperfections will stand out. and boy do they stand out. if you can see an imperfection with no paint on, it will be 500x worse with paint on. colour choice is purely personal, matte looks VERY tacky unless it is done perfectly. which unfortunately none of them ever are. i think the rumour is that to get a perfect matte job, is alot harder than getting a perfect 'ordinary' shiny job. unconfirmed, but i tend belive it. total spray job cost was about $300 (excluding compressor)

yeah that is a frustrating "feature". even worse on the phone, trying to google stuff and its working overtime to refresh the page.

Meet any night kids while you were up there?

Thanks for the PM about this blzbub, unfortunately sundays are out for me as i teach sunday school in the mornings at church.. I hope you all have a great cruise though, great place toowoomba.

unfortuantely i think society has become too complaicent with hearing car alarms...they go off so often that unless someone sees the alarm going off while someone is frantically rummaging around in the car...they probably arent going to do anything. nothing like a nice chunky steering lock to deter theives. hope you get your car back mate, in usable condition. like you say, not really the cost of the car, but its the convenience and annoyance that is the real cost.

if your engine is running reasonably well, then you can just get your current head overhauled. drop it off at a machinest, pick it up looking brand new, pressure tested, valve grinds done, everythign ready to go. thats the top end sorted. bottom end really depends on the condition, if everything is within tollerance, buy some new bearings, pistons and rings, plastiguage everything to make sure, bolt it together with a torque wrench. fun times come when cranks need grinding, bores need over sizing, etc. but a machine shop will be able to supply you with the bearings/pistons/rings you need, machine things to the required size, then you just check it all with plastiguage and bolt it together.

forum handle? very cool car, i love the development. fair decent chunk you took out of the sump!

just the centre, pending exactly what diff you have, you might be able to change the whole "nose cone" which includes the centre and the final drive. i don't know enough about TE31s. if it aint a corolla diff, its not going to bolt in without modifying the mounts for the trailing arms, springs, shocks and tailshaft. as well as ensuring the brake lines work. TE31 sounds pre ae86, thus no options available without some fairly serious customisation to the differential housing you choose.

I physically laughed out loud at this one, got some strange looks in the office.

who knows the reasoning behind what countrys get what...but i have no doubt toyota has optomised its car model distribution to maximise profits. plenty of bean counters who don't even care abotu quad lights deciding which cheap small car at the time to import. If it wont sell well, they wont import it!

from DBA website, you are talking about front 218mm diameter solid rotors, which are 10 or 12mm thick. and rear drums which are about 180-200mm thick i think. nothing all that special, but disc brakes on a sub 1000kg should pull up a few times very well. sounds like you need an overhaul of your brakes, if the mastyercylinder is looking sad get that overhauled. new pads/shoes, discs and most importantly fluid, will do wonders to your brakes.