ke70dave

rust is crap. id say it would be better in the long run to use the least rusted car...and get the defect cleared.

power steering arms + lock spacers seems to be the good option for your steering. camber - camber plates is the best option, then you do away with the rubber top as well. or cheaply you could get some camber bolts (offset bolts), ive never used these on ke70, but i don't see why they wouldnt work. (come standard on alot of cars, so you may even be able to get some from the wreckers to suit)

sold

wow, that was quick. *browses to tirerack to pick new tyres*

nah was 2nd hand. pretty good condition. i think they are about 1000bucks new. ended up being $500 including a genuine recaro seat rail too (this for the s15) one of these suckers. http://passwordjdm.com/images/Products/JDM%20DC%20ITR%20Recaro%20Seats%20%28Black%29%20Large.jpg heres one for sale for $450. (well its sold now) http://www.jzx100.com/forum/topic/10066-recaro-sr3-with-jzx90100-rail-drivers-side/ i had that exact same seat in my ke70 for a few yrs. mmm comfy goodness.

$80. but was mates rates;) dunno what retail costs. mate of mine from church mod plated everything i needed. don't think he does it any more though.

It will only twist if you can put down ALL the power through the tyres. Else you will just spin the tyres.

i suggest bypassing any standard seats. pick up a recaro SR3 seat from an importer, for about $400. cut the rail off your ke70 seat, and bolt it to the recaro. (drilling and forthought required) go and get a mod plate. and be comfy! i recently picked up a standard integra DC2 recaro (SR3), damn nice seat, got it for $400. so comfy. you can stuff around with factory seats from celicas etc, but the recaro will be better than all of them! i tried to put a R32 seat in my ke70 once, it looked like it may fit, but it sat quite high compared to stnadard ke seats.

with the 4a series of engine (4ac, 4afe, 4age,4agze 16V 20V....) the block mountings and dimensions are physically the same. if you pull anything 4a out, something 4a will go back in... with your problem, best to buy a smashed ae92 SX with everythign in it, and compeltely swap it over. the gearbox will bolt up, but its a bit of a waste of time etc. best of having it all ready to go. have a serach on here and twincam.info about the gearboxes, i belive they are C series gearboxes in the FWD corollas, C52 etc. just need to find out the interchangability.

i find the concept of stretching a bit odd. that car above, i think its just too much... in genearal on strechted tyres, i find that the top of the wheel/tyre looks quite good (near the guard), looks kinda cool with the tyre slightly tuched in, but then when you look at where the tyre meets the ground, it looks so weird and silly like its going to all fall appart on the first decent bump.... I'm a fan of tyres that sit dead flat on the rim: exhibit A http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/2056/img02911372406.jpg 195/50 on a 7". fits perfectly, and looks mean. but each to their own. what amuses me the most is when people "stretch" 145 tyres on a 6" rim. that looks rediculous.

location perhaps?

300$ for a GEARBOX cross member? maybe you are refering to a engine cross member. the gearbox cross member is just a flat bit of steel, with a hole in it, and the rubber bit attached to the top (you can buy that rubber bit brand new, it is considered perishable). i got mine for $20 a few yrs, please don't pay 300 for one. you could have one made for less than that. here is a link showing a few photos. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/11029-te7x-manual-gearbox-crossmember/ please do not pay 300 for a peice of flat metal, it just drives the prices up:(

people have destroyed them with a 4ac, other people have used them with sr20det's for years. all depends how you drive.

there should be what is called an "antisqueel" shim type thing on each pad, which is just a peice of metal that sits between the pad and the caliper. if you don't have it you can just get some spray on stuff, i think its just called "anti brake squeel" (what altezza is on about), spray it on the back of the pad. both options aim to act as a damper to stop the vibration that causes that squeel.

well the rear is seperate shocks and springs (leaf springs in your case), so you don't get "rear struts". you just buy the shocks on their own..... the front is you buy a shock insert. you don't buy the entire strut. you pull the old insert out....and you put the new insert in. its called a "shock cartridge". only way you can buy the struts is to buy them 2nd hand.

whole setup of what?

a hilux motor....into a corolla.....isnt going to be an "Easy fit" custom everything. certainly do-able as mentioned above, but in my oppinion there are just so many better options to go with if you are prepared to put in the effort. sr20, ca18, 3sge, 4agte. lots of good stuff there.

sorry mate, i was a bit harsh. just maybe next time use a few more words, explain your situation a bit better, we are happy to help people that help themselves sort of thing. $70 seems to be about the right price, maybe a bit rich, but you got them today, so thats pretty good. by struts do you mean shock absorbers? i like the KYB stuff, made in japan, good shocks, and quite cheap. but if you are going for OEM replacement, pretty much any shock will do, monroe pedders etc. but yeah my preference at the lower end of the budget scale is KYB.

top gun was great, since there was limited 3d effects, it was just awesome action shots of jet planes. i would like to see a movie about cars, where its a somewhat believable and good story line, some good actors, NO 3d effects, just good filming of cool cars doing cool things. is that so much to ask for? This is one of the reasons why 'Gone in 60 seconds' is probably my favourite movie in the "vehicle" genre. I can't get enough of the sound of that mustang. ....bring sally up.....bring sally down....

best? best is a very broard word. if you intend on getting the car on the road, go and see an engineer that will be signing off on your car, and ask them what their requirements are. then once you know how big you need, you can start picking. you would hate to get the whole car finished, only to find your brake setup doesnt meet the engineers requirements!

black and gold brand, available at coles. seriosly though....maybe a.....wait....hang on...no that wont work.....wait...yes it will! a car parts shop! super cheap auto cambletown? http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/store-locator/stores/Campbelltown.aspx?id=207

http://www.bendix.com.au/catalogue?manufacturer=Toyota&model=Corolla&variant=&oepart=∂= that should work. also when dealing with these parts companies, throw as much information at them as possible, model code, engine size, body shape, year made etc, and get them to double check it....twice.

forging most likely woulndt be much of an advantage anyway in a cylinder head or block for that matter. in a modified factory engine anyway. the head is only dealing with the pressure from the cylinder (+water/oil galleries), which is quite high, but not that high for a lump of steel/alloy to resist. it is the components that need to resist high speed, high temperature, very quick changes indirection, very large forces. ie rods, pistons, cranks. That forged materials may allow more reliability.

gravity?:P

mmmmm i get about 3.4deg tan^-1 (3*25.4/1300) = 3.34deg either way, i think its a bit much for truck tyres? not htat i know anything about truck tyres, but they don't look like the type of tyre that would respond well to negative camber, especailly in straight line breaking.