ke70dave

if carbon build up is the problem, a good product i found was "Subaru upper cylinder head cleaner" (could be made of the same stuff shades is talking about?) only available from subaru, around $18 for can. apparently the boxer engines gets carbon build up worse than normal since they are on their side? follow the instructions, it involves filling up your intake manifold with about half the can (engine off, the stuff comes out like shaving foam), then starting the car (quite difficult to start), and continuing to spray it in until can is empty. when i used it on my Sr20, i started the car i had white smoke going everywhere for a good 3mins (ie looked like my engine was running on oil), cleaned it out real good! ran smooth as for ages, i think it might need another can again though. i advise not doing this in your street, i went down to one of the back roads where no houses were, got some interesting looks from passes by.

haha i like your approach. buy car, buy engine, attempt to insert engine into car........reach for angle grinder. looks like it will turn out well. have you thought of making some sort of bash plate for the sump?

that is a large hole in the firewall!!! I'm enjoying the progress picks, getting stuck into it. love it!

i did bushes last on my car. made a huge difference and i didndt even replace them all (just did 4 link, panhard rod and castor rod) i reckon 4 link bushes made the biggest difference. rear end so much tighter.front castor bushes were also good. those are quite cheap too. but i also did the front strut brace (cheapest i could get, was "adjustable" though), i reckon it felt better. could have been placebo effect though:P i remember watching a video where they did back to back testing of strut brace and no strut brace, through a series of chicanes, and to quantify the difference they were measuring maximum suspension compression (wire tie around the shock shaft, see how high it went up). with the strut brace installed they were getting a bit more suspension compression, and their reasoning was that the brace stiffened up the chassis, so it didn't flex, and thus sent more force into the suspension. seemed reasonably legitimate.

does the tailshaft bolt up though?

well the front wheels are turning....so when they turn the wheel edge/extremity gets closer to the inner guard. how is the width and offset of those wheels compared to standard items? oh and the tyres too. they don't look excessively large though... probably just a case that the wheels or tyres are just the wrong size for the car?

most stock cars come with the front a bit higher than the rear. my s15 is a good 20-30mm higher at the front than at the rear (Standard struts, looking at wheel to guard clearance) my understanding is that this is done so when you hit the brakes hard, the nose dives and becomes level with the rear. I'm not sure why this is good, but its about the only explanation i can think of. though measure from the jacking sil to the ground at both ends, maybe the front guards are bigger so it just appears to be higher...

I'm glad someone else said it before me. i may be a bit cynical, but these ultra racing braces are a bit of a rip off. few bits of cheap steel, cut up and welded together, painted white, and sold for hundreds of dollars? spend the same money on a welder and a grinder, and make braces all day long! also have a read of this, not sure i would be buying any products from them. (though this is a malaysian website for ultra racing, maybe they are all made in malaysia?) http://www.ultraracing.my/template.asp?menuid=03 they arent making alot of sense...... also the Australian sais: http://www.ultraracingaustralia.com/index.htm "Ultra Racing Australia was established in 2006, As the First Australian Distributor of Ultra Racing Strengthening Bars. We started off on Ebay for a short time and then we decided to deal with local and interstate workshops and car forums to expand our business. As Ultra Racing bars are becoming more popular and more demanding specially on the drift, track, rally, street and show events" so maybe aus ultra racing just sells Malaysian products? and your ebay mate is the real deal. also note the comment about "street and show events", gotta make sure those chassis are strong enough for parking;)

i don't see the problem really? you posted it up on a public forum, a forum known to contain people who...shall we say....like to voice their oppinion. its like the guy said, you post you car up to see what people think about it, some people might not like, some do. if you post photos of you car on forums you have to put up with the idiots. also i don't think it helped the way you reacated to them....

you might have troubles getting it legal... given the 18rg is older than a ke70? Fairly sure you can only put newer engines in as a replacement. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/47785-18-rg-ke70/ from this thread, it seems 18rg stuff is quite difficult to get, and not cheap. i think its a case of its a old, heavy engine, that doesn't really make that much power.... i think there are much better options out there is all. and having one already may not be a good enough reason to attempt to fit it.... maybe try and PM this bloke if you are hellbent on the idea. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/14160-elm021s-ke70-updated/

awesome work mate. one day ill get my ass into gear and get to a track day in my ke70.

most twinky wheels are stuffed by now though. mine is pretty had it, but it does sit nicely in the car. as for the head unit, yep hack away. i installed mine down just in front of the gearstick, in that little centre console thing. (may have been a tape deck there originally?) either you will have to get creative with the mounting, as its not a standard DIN slot.

well i think the first port of call would be to investigate that imobiliser. who knows how that has been wired in. can you hear the injectors ticking? there is a chunky main orange (i think orange...) in the loom that supplies +12V to the coil, dizzy and injectors. if the injectors are ticking, then this wire is powered up, and thus you *should* get spark and fuel. if there is no power to this nothing goes, which may be the wire that your immobiliser uses. if the injectors are ticking, then after you figure out that imobiliser, look at either the distributer, ignitor leads.....anything ignition related. distributers don't usually "die" as such, not alot in them.

i think i tend to agree with mr redwarf...... some cool work here, but far out i would have started with a less beat up car!!! especially with all the custom weld in stuff. not all that easy to re shell features like that. some pretty cool stuff though, that watts link is cool, and love the muffler box! not so much love the welds on the muffler box...but hey if it works...

so long as your wheel alignment is good, your panel lines line up, everything looks pretty square, and most importantly...your headlights don't shine in peoples eyes!!! do what you need to do to make these things happen!

just get a smaller steering wheel! i can hardly drive a ke70 with standard steering wheel, like using a bus steering wheel!

thought i would comment on my post from friday:

i would be VERY cautious about putting a head back on that wasn't straight. even if it is 5thou or whatever, its still not straight.... 5thou = 0.127mm, thats quite significant i would have thought? the $500 sounds about right, they would be re machining everything in the head, cam bearings, valve guides prolly too.... i did my mates head on his 98' 323 astina (huge over heat), to straighten the head, and buy a gasket set...not much change from 1100 bucks. almost replacement engine time.

hey dude, find some posts by a bloke called "altezzaclub" on here he might jump in here if he sees the thread. he did a nice write up on converting his car to manual. i think its in the members ride, thread is like "girls ke70, mods anyone can do" or something. pretty easy conversion, k40 and k50 is the gearbox you need (4 and 5 speed respectively). plenty of those around, k40 is usually under 100bucks, k50 around the 150 mark (5 speed is a bit more saught after) 5 speed is the way to go, 5th is good on highway. for a first timer on the manual conversion i would allow 2 weekends, problems always arise....

you serious? fix the rust....

Haha yeah I.can't read....... I'd just check a tyres calculator.and find some tyres that are pretty close to.same rolling.diameter? My goodness posting on phone is.difficult...........

What defines farm car? Bush basher? How wide is the rim?

i reckon the last 2 or 3 nights in Brisbane have been the coldest i have felt for a long time. it reminds me of the air down at jindabine (where i stay when i go skiing in NSW), that really really crisp air that has a real bight to it. make your eyes sore just being out in the air....

i believe the SR20 in the GTIr, was the most powerful non VCT sr20 produced by nissan? 230hp compared to the s15/14 engine which has 250hp. only sr to come with quad throttles too. i do love the GTIr's....one day...one day...

yeah ive been up there once a week the last month, its soo good at like midnight. soo damn cold. s15 loves it, free HP!