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Everything posted by ke70dave
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this is exactly why i don't like the idea.... if i was going to do it, i woudl make sure that the pipe from my turbo outlet to the engine intake is as short as possible, and there is nothing in the pipe at all (no intercoolers). i guess on a K motor, being non cross flow, you could make a really small J pipe stright form the turbo to the inlet manifold. actually there is a guy on here with an old ke17? a red one i think. i checked out his car one day at lakeside raceway. he has a pretty sweet suck through turbo setup on his K motor, if you look under the bonnet you can't even see the turbo, very stealth. edit: just remembered we are talking about 3t here, so cross flow. but ill leave my k motor jargen there for reference.
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less talk of clutchs. more photos of the 10 stiches!!! that sounds nasty as!!! i am yet to cut my self worse than 3 stiches....the day is coming though.
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hmm i did not know that about the GZE's re-TVIS. i think TVIS is a good idea on boosted engines, it may not yield the largest peak hp figure but the lower end HP should be increased. and the area under the power curve is what is important, not just peak value. one of these days i will do a direct comparison TVIS vs non-TVIS on a boosted 4age. Not this year though!
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there is no greater way to save fuel than to avoid using your right foot. how do you drive? are you are throttle stabber? or are you gentle and light with the throttle? especially in carbys if you can avoid using the throttle pump on the carby by using gentle applications of the throttle then you will save petrol. if you can get away with under 50% throttle then you are doing alright, revs don't matter so much, more so the load the engine is put under (your right foot). alternatively, convert to efi, get a megasquirt ecu, and a wideband, tune the thing to within 1" of its life. then take out a bit more fuel... run the throttle pump and enrichements on the absolute minimum to keep the engine driveable. that will save you fuel!
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raw gas? suck through has the carby on the intake of the super/turbo charger. so your turbo is compressing air and fuel. i don't really like the idea....but it does work.
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grip is grip man, the contact patch is the same. those proxies just grip like nothing else, corners, braking, accel, you name it it will put your face through the windscreen. they also have a nice and stiff sidewall, good for giving you a sore back. in theory yes a 10" wheel you can put 255's on and get better grip, but unless you have 400hp to turn them, there is no reason. the only cars that come standard with this size of tyre are ferraris, and they sure have alot more power than 120kw at the wheels. and remember how light a corolla is (compared with said ferrari), in the corners you arent trying to turn alot of weight, a decent set of tyres will keep it going around the corner. i recemently got a pair of federal 595's for the front of my ke70 (cheaper end of semi slick, like $148 fitted, 195/50/r15) and in the twisty stuff they just don't give in, grip grip grip grip untill the rear kicks out because I'm only running cheap sumotomo's (which arent that bad, but suck compared to the 595's). when the sumotomos wear out ill get another 2 595's. that will be very interesting.
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120atw really isnt that much (i assume kw?) most modded s13, r32, s15's go for 17x9's..and they have alot more than 120kw at wheels. tyre brand/style is alot more important than tyre size. get some 8" wheels, and some GOOD 205/50/r15 semi slicks (not $99 specials, toyo proxes R888's or simliar, most likely over $1000 for a set) it will grip a whole lot better than whatever you are going to fit onto a 10" wheel. those proxies really are very good.
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mmm I'm not really a fan of putting any sort of goup on gaskets. unless the surfaces arent the best and can't easily be machined (diff cover plates, thermostat housings etc). i don't think there shoud be any reason why you should use any goup/sealant on a headgasket as you get the head machined flat, and spend a few hours with a razor blade on the block and clean all the crap off, you should get 1 mirror surface and one that is pretty close. a head gasket should seal perfectly fine with out any sealant. also especially for metal headgaskets i don't think any goup at all could be used, this will jsut create an un-even surface, but i don't think any K motors have metal headgaskets. having said that, there is this stuff called "Hylomar" http://www.hylomarblue.com/FAQ_pg3.htm mate of mine puts it on anything he can get his hands on, loves the stuff. and has never had any dramas, i don't think hes done a headgasket though (hes a rotor nut...) but ive no doubt he put it on everything inside his 12a. that link sort of talks about it being used as a headgasket dresser.
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doesnt sound anything like the mastercylinder size is at fault i ran CA s13 calipers for years with standard master, and it worked fine. you sure yo uhave CA turbo brakes? all turbo s13's have the 280 x 20? brakes. its only the non turbo ones that have the smaller 250x18 which is what i had.
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why do you want 10" on the rear for? i would just go 15x8 all round. then run the same tyre all the way around. also stretch wont change you rolling diamter. its stretching the sidewall, not the tread part.
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4K Rebuild Kit Unknown Parts
ke70dave replied to RainWarriorDregs's topic in KExx Corolla Discussion
yep they sound like exhaust gaskets to me. i can't recall the form of the ke70 exhaust but i did replace one in my old stocko ke70 exhaust. half way down the car somewhere there is a join. i did howeever have to replace them in my stocko 4age exhaust manifold, where the 4-2 part joins the secondaries there is one of those ring things on each runner. they are a fairly gineric item, and the internal diameter doesnt matter to much, so long as the external diameter fits where its supposed to go. the rest is just crushed and seals it up. -
4K Rebuild Kit Unknown Parts
ke70dave replied to RainWarriorDregs's topic in KExx Corolla Discussion
those silver rings look like "gaskets" for exhausts. like joining 2 peices of exhaust together with flanges. are they sorta ceramic? no idea on the rubber thing. -
The Most Important Thread You'Ll Read. Ever.
ke70dave replied to philbey's topic in Rollaclub Social (Off-Topic)
that website is wrong, this is a homo-phone: -
i went with 2.25 press bent with mine. its much of a much ness i think. its only a stock 1.6L so i think 2.5 is a bit over the top.
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i woudlnt be buying a master cylinder from the wreckers, never know how longs its been sitting there. prolly all rusty, i would get a new one, or at least get it reconditioned before you put it in.
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nah they don't work well. just clog up your water galleries with crap. how bad is it blown? ive heard of people driving around on blown head gaskets.... you got coolant pouring out the exhaust? or water in your oil? or oil in your water? if its a K motor you can pickup complete running K motors for like 100bucks. thats the easiest way to fix it. or if its just the gasket that is stuffed (your head isnt warped) then its only ~60bucks for a gasket kit, and ~60bucks to get the head shaved, and an afternoons work.
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not much to it mate -undo brake line between the diff and body (10mm spanners, possibly 14mm....) -undo tailshaft (4x12mm i think) -undo shocks (14mm) -undo panhard rod (17mm?) -undo the 4 trailing arms of the diff (17mm) use a large screwdriver to wedge out any connections that are being difficult. remove diff!
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good to see mate. i had not stumbled across your thread untill today, some very nice work you have done. looking forward to seeing progress on the new shell!
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what on earth dash is that cuzzo? at first i thought ae92, but I'm not sure it is? looks cool though. there is a newish members ride ke70 drift car (20V turbo) and he has put an s15 dash in it. it looks awesome. where you get an s15 dash i have no idea, half cuts i guess. heres the link: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/46649-4agte-ke70-track-car/
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yerp, but if a tuner actualy knows what he is doing then he shouldnt have a problem with any ecu. ive only helped a mate road tune his 12a turbo, its a long process but we have had good results.
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i wouldn't... 4a ecu's are for 4a's. if the 2tg doesnt have a stocko ecu, you should go aftermarket. get a megasquirt they are cheap, not easy if you don't know what you are doing though.
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I'm on a htc desire running the latest android 2.2 and the non mobile site works fine. loads really fast over 3g/high speed phone coverage. it also worked fine when i was on 2.1. oh and this is just with the standard android browser, i have found no reason to install anything else yet. i just have to click the "disable mobile site" when i first browse to the site...not such a big deal. though i don't browse much on phone anyway, as if I'm at work I'm next to a pc, if I'm at home I'm next to a pc.
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i think your missing the point of my post. holding the spring captive the whole time is the good. what is not good, is holding the spring captive the whole time and only having an extra 10mm of rebound travel from static position. which tends to happen when you have shocks that are TOO short. this only works on an F1 car's that race on billiard table quality race tracks. there is nothing wrong with having super stiff suspension, but the wheels can't fall away from the car on to the road, you will have no grip, since the tyres arent on the road....
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pan hard is just 1 bolts at each end. the noise, I'm unsure what that is, maybe you damaged the diff. a little difficult to diagnose noises over the interwebs. but first get a new panhard rod, actually if you are desperate, just pull that one off and bend it back into shape.did that on a mates car a few yrs back, worked a treat. once you get another wheel (put the spare on?) and get that panhard rod sorted. should be fine to drive it. but if that noise continues, youll have to look into it further. its not your tyre scrubbing on the right hand side? that panhard rod being bent will cause the right side wheel to get closer to the guard.
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ahhh nope that rod is supposed to be straight! thats your panhard rod. keeps the diff in the middle of the car. you can see that your swaybar has moved in regards to your sway bar bush (the shiny part on sway bar) so i dar say your diff is waaayyyy over to the right at the moment. as for that wheel just get a new one, someone will have one for you to buy. if you were in brisbane you could have had one for free, ive got one sitting in the garden!