ke70dave

hey you have a ke30, head over to the forsale section and see mr reddwarf, he has a pair of struts for sale with springs and bilstein shocks alreay in them. i think he wants 300$. postage may be a bit expensive, but even if its $100, 400$ is pretty cheap for good shocks and springs.

what do you mean bumpiness? upgraded suspension = keeping the car on the road better and knowing what the car is doing under all circumstances. and if the road is bumpy....then the ride quality will also be bumpy. if you want a smooth ride and good handling, its all in the shock absorbers. with springs to suit. bilstein are the way to go, but you will pay alot for them (~1000 for a set) you get what you pay for;)

haha i like it ke25turb.... what i can't understand is how people sleep at night knowing they have stolen someone elses stuff. i mean...its not yours...its theirs. although in the big scheme of things we came into this world with nothing, and we are going to leave this world with nothing, so its not really any of ours...but if you work hard and you buy something you like, its knowones right to just steal it just because they want it. if you want something, get out there and get a damn job and earn it. whats interesting is my mate was in japan and left his laptop on a train. he figured it was gone but gave his details etc to the train company, but they tracked him down a few weeks later, and he got his laptop back and it had not been touched. not even turned on. so i think there are plenty of good people in the world, but unfortunately you only hear about the bad ones.

well sure it may stop fine once..but can it do it a few times in a row? especially with the ~150hp you are going to be getting up to speed pretty quick, you wanna be able to slow down quick too! no point building a bullet car that can't stop more than once! also it may be a legal thing as well, no engineer is going to give you a mod plate for a 150hp supercharged engine with 200x10mm solid rotors trying to hold it down (or whatever a ke30 has). and on that note, if you do intend on getting it mod plated, best to see an engineer before you start buying anything. just to know what your goal needs to be.

http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Front_Disc_Brakes this is a bit of a walk through on putting ke30 stuff into a ke10. seems pretty easy, and ae86 is pretty much same setup as ke30 (mcpherson strut etc) as far as i know..... on second thoughts it may not be as easy, as it seems they have adapted the ke30 stuff to the ke10 stub axel. hmm seems you may be in for some customisation in order to get some chunky brakes into your ke10.

nah the 86 stuff is just normal coil over strut setup. mcpherson strut design i forgot about the funky transverse leaf in the front. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=2814 a guy in that thread hints about putting 86 stuff in his ke10, sounds like a bit of work. its also just occured to me that the ke10 would be steering box? dunno how that would go with all these changes, might have to convert to a rack and pinion... it depends how much you want to spend and how much development you want to do. if you can get ke20 stuff in there easily, then you could find a bigger disc/caliper combo and get some adaptors made up to bolt them to etc. but that doesnt help much as i don't think there is much in the way of shocks for ke30's (besides standards)

ahh 19914afc such an uneducated post:P it does not "give" you 5 deg of camber, yes the s13 LCA's are long, but you use camber tops to adjust it to what you want. and you can use R31 arms to bring the arms closer to standard length (R31 arms are about as long as xt130 arms) the "cheap" coilovers are usually far to stiff for any use in a corolla, and a ke10 is going to be the lightest of all of them, so you will be changing spring rates and more importantly shock valve rates in order to get the coilovers useful, ie not cheap (ive been here before, changed my coilovers 3 times untill i ripped out the entire front end and replaced it with toyota stuff). now onto steering geometry,yes of course it will "change" the geomoetry, lowering the car changes the geometry..... i did a bit of an analysis on the S13 front end in ke70 steering geometry over at ae86dc, found there to be a few mm of toe in bump steer on full compression. i could never feel it in my car. but you must remmeber that the mcpherson strut has built in bump steer, the very nature of the setup has bump steer, you just need to design the setup so that the worst bump steer is out of the suspension range. the main draw back of the s13 gear (as i see it) is that it is just so damn heavy, unsprung weight is through the roof, not what you want in a light car like a ke10 (or any corolla for that matter) now onto the ke10 itself in question, i don't know specifics unfortunately, but i would be looking into fitting shock tube that is around the 50mm mark (ae86, some coronas) in order to be able to buy some decent shock absorbers (kyb, koni, bilstein...the list goes on). if you are going to be lowering the car you may require short stroke shocks and the easierst way to do this is to convert the struts to coilvoers (weld on sleeve kit etc) if you are going to be running a 4agze thats alot of power and torques for the little tiny ke10 and i would instantly throw out the idea of ke30 brakes, they are worse than ke70 brakes....and they are pretty bad...., so your going to want a fair substantial brake and suspension setup to keep it all stopping and turning. also you will require this for engineering anyway. if you decide to go with the ae86 front end then you can bolt on 234mm x 18mm vented rotors from the jap 86. now these arent that great, mine fade on the mountain roads. i would be looking into the rx7 caliper upgrade (mini disc?) fairly popular, and a nice upgrade. though that may be a bit big for the little ke10 (i think the mini discs are about 270mm?) on the other hand it may be cheaper to get the willwood brake kit for ae86 struts, super light and super awesome..and can be had for about 1000bucks. though you will need to look at a mastercylinder upgrade, and a brake proportioning valve. (pending your front and rear brake choice) for the rear end, ive never dealt with leafs but people have alot of success with them. with that 4agze you are prolly going to want to get a bigger diff, i would be looking at an R31 diff maybe, or just a T series and don't give it to much hell. both have a factory LSD available, and both have aftermarket 2-ways available. (though the factory R31 LSD is a bit ordinary)

what makes you think the headgasket is the problem? ive never had any dramas with ACL branded stuff, or you can just get a genuine toyota one.

haha to bad you don't live around me, id give you a hand. wiring alarms in is pretty straight forward once you get your head around how they work etc. i first wired one mine in, in about grade 12, then of course all my mates got me to wire theirs in....needless to say my neighbours are sick of hearing me testing alarms! to be honest only reason i put the alarm in was to get remote central locking. and there is nothing more classy then remote central locking in an old corolla.

nah sorry mate i don't, if you get a photo of your door with the rods marked in i can edit it for you and show you where i put mine. fairly sure it was on a funny angle.

your prolly going to want to put a panhard rod in the car anyway, tighten the rear end up. there is a guy on here, thread is called "budget racecar" or something, hes just done a sweet panhard rod setup in his ke20 i think it is. maybe check out his thread ke20/ke30 pretty simliar suspension wise.

untill it rains! not sure thats legal either. best bet would be to get one of those little metal air filter assemblys kind of like this http://www.carbkitus.com/images/00-9025-0.jpg can get them from autobahn etc, there is a company that makes them, can't recall the name. then just get a pipe and run it from the front of your car (behind the grill perhaps), up to near the carby so it will get a bit of cold air. cold air induction isnt as important for carby cars, since the hotter air car also help with fuel vapourisation/atomisation and help with getting a good clean burn. though the engine will enjoy a bit of fresh air. all this will look cool, and sound cool, but will do hardly anything in actually making your engine faster/better. if you want to be cheap (like me) get the standard air filter and cut the excess metal off so it pretty much looks like that one posted, just the element and the top and bottom lids.

yeah doesnt sound like an air leak or anything. whats the fuel pump like? is it a mechanical device or an electric item? maybe its stuffed and it can't keep up on high loads or something. not a blocked fuel filter or something silly? grounding on the coil playing up? given the electronic ignition dizzy i wouldnt expect it to give any troubles.. i can't stand intermitent problems!

ae86 master cylinder is exact same as the ke70 item. for the front you need: ae86: struts, calipers, dics, hubs, steering arms and rubber brake lines you can keep your ke70 castor arms, LCA's. camber tops will fit onto the struts no problem (they come with a little spacer you need to put between the top and your strut), but you will have limited adjustment with the standard spring since its quite large and will hit the strut tower when you try and move it. what makes you want the hilux diff? its a bit of a monster. with just the front calipers changed to 86 you will not need a mastercylinder upgrade, and with the hliux diff you will most likey need an adjustable proportioning valve, though i am unsure on the pison size of the hilux slave cylinders compared to the stock items, maybe some research you can do;)

well first off work out what sort of racing you want to do, as if you want to join a particular class they might have restrictions on what you can change. other than that go for your life, but i would be inclined in keeping it as simple as possible (5k, cam, compression, webber, perhaps)...a simple car is a reliable car, you don't want it to be always broken...then you can't go racing! oh and yeah agreed wiht mr tax, brakes/suspension > POWA

america looks like an interesting place to visit. from all reports of mates who have visited it is nothing like i would expect. how did you find driving on the wrong side of the road? i bet thats a weird experience the first few times.

yeah but how long will it work for... ive only had dramas with those cheap alarms on eaby. work great for a week, then start to get buggy. i bit the bullet a few yrs ago and bought a "python" alarm from JB hifi ($250 i think), hasnt missed a beat in the 2yrs ive had it. combined with a $50 jaycar central locking kit it works great. as for rear doors, nope no dramas, just have to work out where to mount the actuator, drill a few hols and hook it all up. the only real drama i have had is that over time the wire that goes from the body to the door wears out and eventually snaps. this is from opening/closing the door the wire just gets bent back and forwards. unsure how to combat this, mine broke about 1yr ago and its just done it again recenetly. just a matter of soldering it up again..but thats just a tempory fix untill it happends again. i think my wires also get crushed between the door and the chassis...not really ideal.

All the kits are the same mate all fairly generic, and the ke70 is easy as to install. but it does take a bit of thought since it is a generic kit. Put a kit through my car a few years ago, not had any dramas since!

ahh wel if its actually up close with rally cars then of course I'm keen! rally really isnt a spectator sport! have fun in urbanville!

is "half way" hot? isnt that about normal temp? assuming the 4afe engine is the same water system as 4age http://www.billzilla.org/4agwater.gif that above photo/image to me sais that hot water flows out of engine into the top of the radiator, and then "cool" water flows out of the bottom radiator back into engine, so the bottom hose should be not as hot as the top hose? if you are still worried about it, have you considered air bubbles in the system? maybe you need to bleed the system. so when its cold park it on a hill so your radiator cap is highest point, start car up from cold with radiator cap off, and just let it idle up to temperature, keeping an eye on the level in the radiator, if bubbles come out the level will drop, just top it back up again. the other thing you can do is wait till the thermostat opens (you will see the water starting to rush around your radiator) then grab hold of the hoses and give them a few decent squeezes, and if there are any bubbles this squeezing can help force the bubbles out.

i assume by far noth coast you are talking about kyogle area where the wrc was last year etc i went down last year to check it out, cool event (though not that great for spectators, though the SSS was cool in the town stadium thing), but those protestors...they need to be locked up somewhere. throwing rocks at rally cars, blocking public roads or driving uber slow for no reason, vandalising signs/roads etc. i swear they did more damange to the place than all the rally cars put together.! coffs harbour is far to far for me to go and spectate....so that kinda sucks.....but hopefully its better recieved by the....."anti enthusiasts"

that is a great looking car, i really like the lines on it. well done on the purchase. but yes some more photos, that i can use as desktop wallpapers...

mine was about $350 woth of paint and 150 worth of materials (spray gun, sand paper, bog) and maybe and 1 weeks works work in the garage. its not perfect there are dents everywhere, but its all one colour, metalic blue and shiny! its only an old ke70 that cost me 300 bucks, no way was i gonna spend 1000's on getting it painted.... it turned out pretty good, the actual paint is awesome considering me and my mate had no idea what we were doing, and just got a 15 minuite lesson from the guy who sold the gun to us. we could have spent alot more time on it, but it was just supposed to make the car all one colour, which it is.

touche' but electrics designed to be around fuel pumps (minimal wiring, bolted connections), is a little different to a hot glowing bulb in a (more than likely) cracked and rusty bulb holder/tail light assembly.

yeah but julia gillard sais 'negotiate' wrong. but i have the first episode of the BBC version of topgear (when the fat guy was in it...) and yeah its pretty apauling. but they did have the R34 GTR. even the first 2 or 3 seasons of top gear BBC are pretty bad compared to the latest. which you would expect given the budget increases it would have recieved etc. and yep i didnt even know this new one was on, might have to hit up the interwebs to see if some nice person has recorded it for me. who are the presenters now? that was the main drawback of the last attempt, was just to "fake", presenters were trying to hard.