Banjo

So how was the WRC at Coffs Harbour ?

Is the roughness at the higher revs, or over the whole range ? Have you looked at the possibility that the dizzy is out one tooth. Very easy to do, & does often provide a symptoms like you describe. What type of Toyota dizzy are you currently using. Points, Reluctor, electronic ignitor ? Is this roughness the kind when you are missing one spark plug lead, or is it a shaking kind of roughness ? The first one is like a hiccup every now & again, where the second one has the engine rocking erratically on it's mounts. I know you realise, that once you put a 290 deg cam in the 5K, you will never get the smooth idle you enjoyed with a standard curve. That is the trade off; but I gather, what you are seeing is a lot worst than that. Get that timing light working. They can often tell you a lot, just by observing what the flashes are doing. It may well be too advanced, but the timing light will uncover that. Cheers Banjo

Hi Austin, I have a 2 door KE30 that came from factory with 2 speed auto & Jap diff. I did the KE70 5 speed conversion, & it worked perfectly, with the original auto tail shaft. However, you might want to go B/W diff, as the original auto diff, will probably be a 1.43:1 ratio, & you might like sometime a bit taller like 4.11:1 or even 3.89:1, if you can get one. With the B/W diff you will require a different tailshaft, as the tailshaft/diff flanges are different. This Ke70 5 speed mod does however require the following. Opening up the hole in the "tunnel" a bit at the rear end. Acquiring a manual pedal box. Acquiring a manual clutch cable. Bypassing the auto park switch, which stopped it from starting. Best mod you'll probably ever do to your Rolla. Cheers Banjo

Hi Francisco, Always a bit of a nervous time, when you start up an engine for the first time, especially when you have put so much time & effort, & money into it. Look at it on the bright side. It does start & run, despite the running being rough. All we have to do is now find out why it is running, below your expectations, & rough. The audio is a bit poor, as you mentioned, so that doesn't give us a lot of clues.I'm going to fire a whole lot of questions to you, & after we have your answers, we might be in a better place to offer valid suggestions. 1. Did you assemble the engine, or was it put together by the people that did the machining ? 2 Was the engine checked with a degree wheel, after assembly, by you or others, to ensure the valve timing was correct ? 3. I presume you replaced the original single timing chain, with a duplex, which has a vernier adjustment ? If so, what was the vernier initially set at ? 0 degrees ? 4. Does the engine feel, or sound like it is starving for fuel ? 5. Is the engine now in the car, with a gearbox on, or on a test stand ? 6. Have you got a timing light, that you can check the timing & advance ? 7. Without spark plugs in, is the engine very tight to turn over ? 8. Have you got an oil pressure guage attached to the engine ? 9. In the video, were you revving the engine, or was it surging like that all by itself, with a static throttle setting ? Fire us back some answers, & we'll go from there. P.S. My first best guess is that the dizzy, has been installed 1 tooth out, & the rotor arc'd end is running out of lining up with the distributor cap posts, inside the cap. At the higher revs, it could be causing it to feel like it is running on 3 cylinders. If one cylinder was dead, & it was only running on 3, it would show up instantly on the plugs, which I guess, are all brand new. Cheers Banjo

Hi Johno, Welcome aboard ! Which suburb are you located in, in Brisbane ? There are a number of members in Brisbane, who would be willing to give it the "once over", & get you started, in the right direction. Is that a picture of the car you are buying ? It looks more like a KE55 that a KE30, but does look very clean, & unmolested, as you say. How many klms are on the speedo ? Let us know. Cheers Banjo

Hi Michalis, Off memory, the JAP 4.31:1 ratio diff was fitted to Corollas with auto transmission. Manual transmission models, were often fitted with 4.11:1 ratio diffs. The 3.89:1 ratio diffs were not fitted to any Corollas as standard, from memory. However, I am led to believe, that the Datsun 1200 & 120Y series, used the 3.89:1 ratio diffs, of the same origin as Toyota, & that if you can get hold of a 3.89:1 crown wheel & pinion set new, a good diff reconditioning company should be able to swap them over, & lap them in for you. A lot od Datsun 1200 utes had 3.89:1 ratio diffs. Others on this forum may be able to confirm or correct my thoughts, as I haven't actually done it myself, but I do have it on my "bucket list", as I have a KE30 with a 1.43:1 ration diff in it, that I would love to fit a 1.389:1 diff into it. Here is a listing I found, that has a number of 3.89:1 & 3.9:1 ratio diffs http://www.difflap.com.au/ratios/gearratios_ad.htm Cheers Banjo

Excellent work ! Ideal placement up in that back RH corner, but then with the Nissan in the bay, there ain't too many other places you could put it. I put my commercial aluminium catch can in a similar area. Works well ! Nik of "Project Binky" would be proud of you. Did you make a cardboard cut out, & use it as a test box, to make sure it fitted in the space OK ? That's what Project Binky do all the time. http://www.badobsessionmotorsport.co.uk/project-binky-episode-13/ Cheers Banjo

And the little bits they couldn't quite get right, they filled with molten lead solder ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87fuTnBS2bE https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LEAD-SOLDER-STARTERS-KIT-suit-PANEL-BEATING-VEHICLE-RESTORATION-LEAD-FILLING-/252839052209

You watch this very early MCM utube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11zpXnFStNo Cheers Banjo

Hi Tim, If it turns out not to be a fuse, then it could well be the relay 130. Not sure where this is located in the KE70, but if it is like the earlier KE30/35/55s, it could well be located behind the kick plate plastic cover, just to the RHS of the drivers right foot/leg. Rollaclub members on here, with a KE70, might like to confirm, or correct this location. Cheers Banjo

I'm presuming your 82 Corolla is a KE70. Sedan & Wagon wiring are almost identical. Here is the circuit for the part of the diagram you are interested in. There is also a relay (item 130) involved. Here is the legend, to identify the bulbs, which are all in parallel. Give us a yell, to let us know whether you got it sorted. According to the wiring diagram, the fuse feeding all these parker & dash lights etc. is a 15A. One of these, are your best friend, in these situations. Cheers Banjo

Hi Tim, Your parkers & dash lights are usually on the same circuit, so if it is a blown fuse that is causing the issue, you can easily resolve that, by looking at the layout & identification of the fuses on the fuse box lid, or simply remove each fuse, one at a time, & look through it, to see if it is open circuit. Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, The same concern crossed my mind. Whilst wrapping it, I used a spray bottle of water, (just like my wife does when she is ironing the clothes) to soften the fibreglass wrap, & I did note how porous the material was. That's one reason why I used over half a "rattle can" of Hi Temp paint to seal the whole thing. I actually ran the engine for a while, before I applied the paint, to ensure no moisture was trapped inside. When I've got it all finished, I might pour some water over it, when I've got the test rig outside, & see whether it all runs off. The wrap does result in a less "tinnie" noise level, which is nice. Cheers Banjo

Thanks again Ben ! I went to Bunnings & bought a packet of 10 off stainless steel ties, 4.6mm x 250mm long, for just $4.60. (Electrical Section) Looked pretty much the same as the ones that came with the fibreglass wrap. Same design, same technique. Tried one when I got home, & it was like "chalk & cheese". These pull up nice & tight, & do not slip back at all. The packet was labelled by a company called STAHL, & were made in Taiwan. I'd say the ones that came with the kit were a China copy, where they didn't quite get it right. Tie wire is a good idea. I might give that a try around the "collector" area. Actually, if you look closely at the area you highlighted above, I did leave one of the temporary plastic zip ties there to see how it fared with the heat. The big one going around the collector is a long one that was supplied with the tape kit, but it is loose, so I might pull both these off, & tie them off as you have suggested, & see how it looks & works. Cheers Banjo

Thanks Ben, I'll have a look this afternoon. I'm a regular at Bunnings, but haven't come across them before, but then I wasn't looking for them before ! Cheers Banjo

Whilst doing some programming for the pulse trigger decoder, for my distributorless 5K, & not working directly on the engine, I decided to fit an O2 sensor mounting point on the standard exhaust pipe. I then added some fibreglass wrap on the pipe. It was more for protection, rather than good looks, as I'm working around the engine in shorts, I don't want to burn my legs accidentally (which has happened previously). The fibreglass wrapping kits are very cheap on-line, & for about $20.00, I got 15m of tape + 10 x S.S. ties, free postage, with plenty of tape left over. Now I've never done this before, nor had the need, so watched a couple of on-line videos, of how to go about it, by pre wrapping it loosely, & then dampening the tape with water, to soften, & give the tape a bit more flexibility as you wrap. That all worked out fine, but when I came to fitting the S.S. ties, I ran into trouble. They just wouldn't pull up tight, like I expected. I watched the videos again, & they made it look so simple, by just pulling it up tight, bending the end over, cutting the excess off, & pushing it back 180 deg into the clasp. I actually managed to get just one to do that, but it was a pain. Then I realised it wasn't really tight. I looked at the clamping arrangement, & it has a tiny "rough" ball inside, That grips the S.S. ties & "jams" it. I wasn't happy, & didn't know whether it was my technique, or that I had just scored some "cheapy" ties, in my cheap on-line purchase. I finished up, just buying some ordinary S.S. hose clips at SCA, which worked perfectly, as depicted below. To stop the wrap from losing tension, as I wound the tape tightly around the pipe, I used oridinary plastic zip ties to temporarily hold the wrap in place, until I got to the end, & fitted the metal hose clamps. I then thought, this is so easy, why doesn't some one make a hi temperature plastic zip tie for this application. I looked on line, & did find some rated up to 240 deg C, but that is probably not high enough. Has anyone come across some Hi Temp zip ties, in their travels ?? Anyway, I finished up spraying the installed fibreglass wrap with high temp paint (colour aluminium), for exhaust systems. I saturated the porous tape, & put it in the sun for a day. I then refitted the exhaust pipe to the engine, & ran it, until the pipe reached operating temperature. It had the effect of "baking" the wrap on, & gave what appears to be a very good reliable finish. It was only an experiment, & time will tell. If anyone, has some personal experience with wrapping exhausts, or has some tips, please add here. Cheers Banjo

Hi Graeme, I'll put my hand up. I had to Google "Corey Hart" to see who he is, & what the reference referred to. Brilliant Dave !

Second happy ending to this story ! Top marks for Altezzaclub & The Spirit Man for getting this one right. Cheers Banjo

The secret is out ! Kyogle area. The making of the SCA latest oil ad. If you are are ever in the area, please explore this valley & area. It is just beautiful ! https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/blog/all/kyogle-council.html?utm_source=edm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=MF_SCA01_2019_WK18_CAT & another . . . . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-eMH3klU2w Cheers Banjo

That's brilliant ! Probably a little bit too bright. I got a roll of those LEDs. They are great. Use them for various lighting requirements. You can build a simple dimmer for LEDs, using a variable Pulse Width control. Plenty of circuits on the net. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n48GemL7tsc Cheers Banjo

Here's a link to one I remember recently. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73225-smarten-up-your-dash/?tab=comments#comment-708509 Here is another . . . https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/51690-rosie-the-ke55-rolla/?page=4&tab=comments#comment-540580 Just Search Rollaclub above field for LED or T10, & a few will come up. Cheers Banjo

Welcome aboard ! Wow ! You have a lovely Rolla there, & are a very lucky man, going by it's very good condition. How long have you had it ? Do you know it's previous history ? (Little olde lady etc. ?) Looks like you've got another future Rolla enthusiast there in the making ? Keep the pics coming, & fire any questions you have our way, as there a lot of people on here, prepared to offer good advice. I've got a KE30 2 door, a little bit older, in the same "baby pooh" colour, as my wife calls it. I'm on my third Rolla now. I've had a KE35 2 door coupe; KE55 2 door coupe; & now the less seen KE30 2 door sedan. They are so reliable, & anything that does go wrong, can easily be fixed, as I'm sure you've found. Easy to work on. Only nasty is rust, when they get to be 40 years olde, particularly if you are by the sea, as I think you are. As long as you can keep it out of the structural areas, underneath, it should be alright. Cheers Banjo

Oh dear ! If water creeps in behind that floor sound deadening stuff, that Toyota painted on 40+ years ago, you often can't see any rust, until you scrape it off. Hope that's all the rust you find ! I've been looking for a black console I was sure I had. Couldn't find it, which you would understand, if you saw the back of my shed, where I keep all this stuff. After looking again today, I suddenly remembered, I sold it to a fellow Rollaclub member here in Australia, about a year ago, as part of a whole kit of bits & pieces he bought off me, for his resto of his Rolla. So sorry, I haven't got a console for you. Put it up on the forum under "Wanted to Buy" & see if you get any response. If I do come across one in my travels, I'll let you know. Looks like it might be a little while, before you arrive at the fit-out part of the resto. Good luck ! Cheers Banjo

Been raining here, but sun out today, so will go have a look in the shed, & see what I have in the way of black consoles, & let you know. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jeremy, The thing I like about mechanical systems, of any description; is that they more than often give you a warning, in advance, that something is amiss, or on the way out. Unfortunately, electrical & electronic systems are often not as providing, & just go bang, or bust, or splat ! If you suspect something, whilst driving, I always turn the radio off, close the window, to remove wind noise, & listen carefully to the engine, under different load conditions. Congrats ! Elon Musk is current selling tickets to space. However, not 4K powered, which I know will disappoint you ! https://www.afr.com/leadership/innovation/when-where-and-how-elon-musks-spacex-plans-to-colonize-mars-20181016-h16qay Cheers Banjo