philbey

Sure, Stainless steel has a low thermal conductivity, but it still conducts much more heat than a fibrous paper gasket.

The 5th Gear is an Overdriven gear. Typically the 5th speed is the weak part of the gearbox, it takes a lot more load than any other gear in the box and may have a tendency to break. If you aren't trying for any land speed records I wouldn't worry about it!

It should tell you road speed on your printout. If you know your diff ratio you will be able to work it out yourself. Just because it doesn't tell you the RPM doesn't mean it's a dodgy dyno.

There's an actual specified end float value I reckon, if you have a Haynes or Gregorys manual it will tell you. I'll check this weekend for you though

A thin sheet of stainless with a couple of standard gaskets would be best then. The metal-metal conduction will cause the biggest increase in charge temperature, as you will heat up the manifold through contact. If you can get a high temp asbestos or similar gasket in there as well that will keep it right down.

You should be able to get a VDO switch to fit, is it fitted into the standard thermostat housing? I think it's an M16 thread.

Yeh, you won't see bugger all change. Just put a set of extractors on it!

You don't need lime necessarily, you just need to keep the heat in the part as long as possible. Sand, Weld blankets, something that doesn't conduct heat will do. I would Preheat in the 150-200 degree range and that should be fine. Stick it in the oven to do that, don't hit it with the oxy. As Cast Iron cools, the microstructure of the metal changes. Crudely put, the faster it cools, the less desirable the changes are, so you want to slow the cooling down. Hence, preheating and then insulating it after the welds are laid should give you good results.

Haha. Buy a merc for creature comforts! If you have a battery drill of a particular brand, you can buy probably get a grinder of the same (without batteries) and that should save you a packet. Mind you the cheapest I've seen them was 300+ without batteries!

Nice.... Pics of KE15.

I have the same problem in my KE16. I actually cut extra metal out of my trans tunnel and the piece I removed is intact with all the welded nuts so that one day I can convert it back to Auto if I want (Toyoglide for the win) I'm just running a hole at the moment (DHLA noise massively outweighs the roadnoise) but I'm just going to cut out a panel from a Manual KE55 and weld that into my tunnel, that way I can use a boot from a KE55 and it will bolt right in. Only problem is I need a battery power angle grinder to take to the wreckers!

Oh yeah I forgot about that. Not sure how I forgot, it gave me that much grief.

With most corollas you shouldn't have any real trouble going over the diff/axle, there's ample room. Although if you're on the bump stops....

Calibrated arse dyno thank you very much. Haha.

You managed to sit in traffic for 2 hours, with the heater on, and didn't boil?!?!?! Oh wait - UK weather... :) Mate I'd piss off the thermo altogether and just put a solid mount fan on - wouldn't even bother trying to find a Viscous Clutch fan like Taz mentioned.

Those wagons are tough. Especially on bags!

Yeh, that's definitely the problem.

Then write up the stuff you learn about modifiying vehicles in your state/territory and send it to me so I can put it in the FAQ!

TAKE THAT BACK~! While we're talking datsuns/nissans, I dig the SSS510 with those crazy cat japs style taillights....

Because the Paramedic coming to rescue you from your burning wreckage is going to know exactly where to find your well concealed, discreet little popper mechanism! Gold.

As mentioned, you have a problem with the wheel offset. Fit the proper wheels, or run illegal and less safe option of wheel spacers. Not really an issue if the wheel centreline is in the same spot as stock.

Rebleed first and see what changes. Are the seals in the caliper kosher? They might be knackered. Same goes for the Master Cylinder.

Seriously josh, don't silastic up your manifold gasket - It's a poor solution! There is a reason your gaskets aren't sealing, and silastic is a poor answer to the problem. Get the 1 piece gasket, make sure all your manifold ears are flat, planar and the same thickness and you won't have a problem.

An hour or two - what happened to 28 minutes? :bash:

The reason they will chew bearings is because the longer pulley will increase the "leverage" on the pump and alternator shafts. It's not difficult to work it out. The actual belt itself will have a specific tension value which you should try to use. Toothed belt drives are good because they can transmit much higher power without slipping, and they consume a lot less energy to do so.