philbey

He is definitely not a victim. He was speeding, he got done and to his credit he has accepted he stuffed up. I have to say he's one of the few P Platers I've seen on a forum that hasn't adopted the "whinge whine revenue raising facist" argument.

The Roots.... Things Fall Apart. I tried to listen to Cypress Hill self titled on vinyl for some memory lane time, but I think my amp has shat itself.

I would be thinking that the ECU doesn't even run have an input from the kill switch - It is a 25 year old car. I would say if you take a look at the wreckers at a factory auto car, the switch in the shifter will just be a kill in the circuit from your ignition from the starter. Failing that, all you have to do is wire it in that way.

Collected a bunch more bits, but I'm struggling to get motivated..... Rear wheel sorted, need a tyre though. Just a few brake bits and pieces needed here and there as well, but It's basically ready to start assembling.... I've been reading this thread to get inspired, the guy is pretty dedicated. This is a good read even if your not that interested in bikes, just to see how he's tackled/fabbed various bits and pieces. This is his final product - very clean.

I've been meaning to post up a tough notchback as well, especially on the Fuchs, I reckon your right about similar taste.... This is a mean machine: Cole Fosters '54 Chev. And the 50/51 chevs are tough as well;

A variation on the same theme: Wind the nut out flush with the end of the shaft. Jam both your knees behind the steering wheel and brace against the dash or floor. Put as much pressure on the backof the wheel as you can with your knees, then hit the shaft with a rawhide mallet or wooden mallet. Or a brass drift. The impact on the shaft will break the taper.

Guys the discussion is heading quite off topic from the original poster's queries. The cheap cam swap mod has a lot of merit - sure it's only a few degrees, and although the extra lift is only .5 mm, it's still more lift. And when you're done with the cams you can probably get most of your money back selling them. You could budget 500 bucks for some newer cams, a set of extractors and a better exhaust. Minor upgrades, but cheap and will improve power, just what you wanted.

Haha swamp coolers are wicked. So are mk1s.

Took the words right out of my mouth. Post up what you can, try get a bunch of photos etc. We're just in discussion about how we can expand on the tech database etc, if you want to post up everything we can, we'll get it into the FAQ. TP.

Yeh that Galloway clubman is the video I saw ages ago. Unreal. I'd love to get a chance to go for a zoom in one, you don't need the craziest, biggest HP motor to have fun! There's some cool little race cars out there.

I'm running the 2 piece gaskets with my twin carbs and haven't had issues yet, not to say I wont in the future though. While you have the manifolds off, get the single piece. Definitely take a look at the thickness of each of the ears on your manifold. If it's a lynx item, you can garauntee that they will vary significantly, they'll probably even have some taper on them. It's not hard to fix, just get a file onto them, not on the Head side of the manifold obviously. Your exhaust manifold should be quite accurate. If you get extractors you'll likely find they have a thinner flange and you'll need more filing.

Urethanes, engineering slang for Polyurethane. There's a huge range of urethanes, from hard plastics, elastomers to soft foams. I would err away from the moulding as well, especially if you've got the machining equipment. You'll probably not save any money or time, because you'll need tooling of some sort. I might have a look this weekend and try find some spec's for urethanes you'd be looking for. TP

Valve guides you're thinking of. And Valve stem seals.. Does it smoke all the time, or is it just on startup?

That nose, with the louvre's and the side vents, is a factory option on the Carreras and turbos in the 80s. It's basically a factory body, although aftermarket crowds capitalised on the look too. Based on the 935 (?) racecar nose.

Gold.

They're a urethane, but urethanes come in many many different flavours so you'd have to do some thinking.....

Donegal Road, lonsdale, if you get to the bend you've gone too far.

50-80 bucks! Wow, last ones I bought were 8 bucks a pop.... Another trick that usually works: put your handbrake on and reverse a few metres, it might adjust out a bit.

Tell em to bite it and find solace in the fact you're not spending money on hookers or heroin! Well, maybe you are, but at least not all of your money on hookers or heroin. 1200 coupes are wicked, I never appreciated them when I was 16 and they were easily acquired! Saw a granny driving one the other day though, It was wicked.

Cool, front engined. I reckon I've seen an in car video of that thing lapping sandown. Sounds crazy.

And for those who don't dig the 911 look, perhaps a factory option Slant front is more your flavour? (By the way, this thing looks MEAN. If you hadn't noticed.)

We digress. But speaking of third-eye blinking, how cool are Bongo vans?

Some of the Crane Hi6 versions have built in boost retard, and they also have an adjustable boost retard controller that plugs in to it, the TR2.

It shouldn't be that hard to find a K50 really? The later model units are pretty bloody common. Call Peter Robinson, 9544 1162 and see what he's got.

No you change gears by playing mah jong, the tile choices determines the gear you get.