Redwarf

You're going to have to run that thing on PULP. Nothing you have told me there makes me really open my eyes, except to say that it's probably a good rebuild. 11:1 is a bit high for a street motor (IMHO). However, you are not going to see any benifit unless you sort out the induction and exhaust issues.

What has actualy been done to the engine? Cam been done as well? Specs for cam? Over bore? Twin sides will make a difference. Don't expect fuel economy though. Extractors should be high on your list of purchases, too.

Get it dyno'd. I don't know what adjustments (if any) are available. If you're still not happy: Lose the EFI, put twins on it, and don't forget that it'll have to be dyno'd again.

Yes I have experience with 2TG's. Have you had it on a dyno? How fresh is it? New plugs? Decent spark? Timing? Carbies in good nick or are you running efi? I have a carbed 2TG and I'd back it against a 4AG on most days.

I bought a WIA 175. Payed GOOD dollars for it, but it's worth it's weight in gold. Easily do good panel work, and will do 8mm steel with .8mm wire at a stretch, and everything in between. $1400 for it though. Australian made, the company has been around for many years, parts are very easy to come by. I expect to be using it in 30 years time.

Gday Mark. That's the puppy I saw. Nice to see it. Do you compete with it or do you just use it as your daily? I don't know if you noticed someone stalking you on the Kwinana Fwy a couple of weeks back in a new dark blue Mazda 6 with NSW plates, but that was me. :jamie:

Buying someone elses problems?

Have about three of them. If you remove it, you can have it.

What do you need?

Nor can you argue with the 7 letter F-word. :jamie:

I know. :jamie: But I'm old school. To me the peak of technology is the dcoe carb. I'm living in the 70's.

I disagree oh great Ex-Deliverator. Induction noise FTW!! :jamie:

Here we go. Better late than never. Drilled 1/2 inch hole through where the thraded insert/ nut was for bonnet support. Usually I have a thick piece of rubber over the pin to support the bonnet when closed, but I removed it for clarity. Hole through bottom of bonnet, in indentation where the bonnet support sits. Stainless disc on top to prevent paint damage around where the pin goes. Hope this is of some help. R

Yes it will. the stud pattern is 4 x 110. If they're steel rims, you need to file the centres out (minimally) otherwise they'll never come off the front hubs again. I used to use steel RX rims al the time.

Never had that problem, and mine have been on for 16 years now. Jono, sorry I haven't got back, but I got called into work before I got the piccies, and I buggered if I'm doing them right now! Cheers R

Had a 96 model 4AFE from new. Gave it to my sister last year with 260K on it, still doesn't use oil and starts first time every time. Still got years in it. Keep services up to it, and it'll go forever....

Yes and yes. I use them in my rally cars and find them to be consistently equal height from one spring to the next. Better than an opponent that starts with "K".

No worries, I know he had a couple of them, and that was the one I could get info on. Best of luck!

Been there, done that. I used where the front bonnet support (the round do dad the supports the bonnet at the front) and replaced it with the pin. Drop bonnet from a couple of inches to get where the pins touch the bonnet (on round indentation on bonnet proper) The hole needed will be a touch larger than you think due the angle at which the bonnet comes over the pin. I'll get some pics tomorrow when the camera is charged up again.... Cheers R

Have another go. There's a wanted to buy section to post this in. There's also a set for sale in the car parts section by ke ping it real if memory serves as well. Don't forget to put in a location..... Cheers R

Nope, we threw it together from a hundred yards with what was lying around the workshop. This set is a pair of Webers, but the Dellortos I had were the same. As you can see, single rail with a single pushrod. View from underneath. Two fittings on each carb work like a tongue and groove arrangement. Slight scallop to the manifold is required for this arrangement. You can see it better here on a spare I have.... Ditto. Hope this helps......

White man speakum truth. Front and rear screens out, all bits of trim and seal that seem to be in the vacinity out, remove lining. I wasn't very gentle with mine, as it isn't going back in.

Is that the one that at one point had a 1GG in it? This was somewhere around the early mid nineties that it was at a workshop in Tullamarine, I think it was still Bob's at the time, although I can't remember which series it was being run in. Could possibly find out if it's the same car......

My two carbies link together in the middle, therefore requiring only one shaft to operate the two carbs. I take a piccie shortly. Both my webers and the Dellorto set up I had did this. Actually, all three off my Weber set ups are like this. Back shortly.

I have a set complete but off the car if you need further photos....