Redwarf

The FAQ is THE place to start. A good old fashioned search would also do you the world of good. This subject has been done (again) very recently as well. Cut a long story short, bore it, shave it, cam it, carb it, exhaust it. Any or all will do you a favour. And before the flaming starts, :P

You've been told before. Don't do it again. To aid your flagging memory: From the rules that You have agreed to: Consider this a friendly warning..

You'd have more chance with a photo.

An old thread with a couple of other cages in it. The first is my 25, and the red/ yellow one is a 1600. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...pic=366&hl=

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...1964&st=210 Bottom of page. Car will be road registered in QLD. I have pics of the cage in the old car, but it's not as good as this one. I also have pics of the cage in my 25 as well.

If they're set up properly, you NEVER have to touch them. Had numerous sets of twins. Set and forget.

If you're going to go hill climbing, you would want to find out what is legal for the event. Ke20's are pretty strong. (Trust me.) I ran for MANY years with just a (Very good, not off the shelf) strut brace. I know with rally cars, you could not do the bracing from the tower fwd, nor could you go to the fire wall. THE best way of strengthening the car is a cage (I know... you don't want one). With the strut brace, if your getting serious, the mounts on a t3 ( or other ) will not be strong enough. I use mounts made from either 6mm steel, or about 10mm alloy. You will find if you're using stiff springs, the tower top will bow as well. You can either plate the top or underneath of the tower top to stop that. I can't see any point whatso ever in putting a rear strut brace in, but don't let me stop you. I just cannot see how it is going to work. At all. Seam weld it (suggest don't go fwd of towers, easier to fix in a prang) and get a real strut brace, you shouldn't have much problem. R

Considering I used to snap axles with 115hp, I think it will last until the second or third time you side step the clutch. Upgrade time.

Guys, regional forums are not the place for this sort of thing. This is why we now have the mandatory location in the classifieds now, so that at a glimpse you can see whats local. Please don't use the local area forums to peddle classifieds. This has been a long standing policy of the board. Regards Dwarf

I'm going to stop this thread before it gets out of hand. YOU need to do the research, as you are the one doing the conversion. You also need to learn about cars/ motors/ mechanicals if you want any hope of pulling it off. This board is a wealth of knowledge if you could be bothered looking for it. To post and say you'll be doing it in a couple of years is wasting virtual oxygen. You need to work out what you can do personally, what you'll have to pay for, and most importantly, HOW MUCH YOU CAN AFFORD. Why does it have to be a turbo? Do you like the wooshy noises they make? What gearbox upgrade can you afford? Do the same for diff whle you're at it. Do you need a turbo? Do you now the hasles involved? All these questions can basically be answered on this board somewhere, if you want to find it. But asking is going to get you a virtual thrashing each and everytime. Do your research and get back to us. :(

How deep are your pockets??

The crossmembers are different enough that neather of those options will work. Try to find a TE2X cross member. That's the direction I've taken. Mines on it's way from Japan as we speak. Don't forget that you will have to either mod your pedal box for hydraulics, or get a 2X pedal box as well. (I've got one on the container next to the x-member. :lolcry:)

It's the difference between early and late 3K blocks. Early (generally green) blocks have them where yours are, and later (generally red blocks) have it in the other position. :) *edit: Bugger! SNAP!

Bore it, shave it, cam it, Weber it, exhaust it. Any or all of the above will be "proper job". A step by step guide in the FAQ.

Already has been, and in fact still is. Already have the new mod plate, too. Sadly it no longer has the "REDWRF" plates, just boring club plates.....

I suppose it's time to put my baby in here. KE25, have owned it for the last 16 years. Was the wifes (then girlfriend) first car. She drove it to uni during the week, I motorkhana'd it on weekends. :) Was 1360 cc 3K, Webers, 4.5 diff; now undergoing the TE27 conversion. 2TG, t-series diff LSD with 4.77 gears, flares.... :dance: Won't see a forest again (that's what the 37 is for :dance: ), but should be a good plaything for club motorsport.

Could be worse, people fly on the planes I fix. :)

Spare time? No more than usual. Just motivated. Pic of the rear:

I'll look down stairs, but I won't promise anythng.....

DCOE me baby! :lolcry: Agreed, drivability and fuel economy should be taken into consideration.

Do these help? (Damn I love digital cameras!)

Retro mags and yoko 352's with the white writing on the outside.... :lolcry:

Been done recently with the above link. Happy reading...... :y: :lolcry:

After a long period of inactivity, had a bit of a play with the old girl tonight. First pic is of flare mounted roughly where I want it. Plasma cutter fired up, and front guard trimed. (Will be trimmed better at later date.....) Holes drilled, and temporarily fitted. Flares will be black until I get off my rectum and paint them properly..... The backs are going to be a bit of an issue, due to the double skin. Pics of that probably Monday.......

That's because nobody else would want them! :lolcry: