Redwarf

Hi teddy, Still no can come, but will wave you all off from Maccas. R

Pull the lower arm out. Remove circlip from ball joint. Walk down to gutter at side of road. Swing lower arm with all your might, hitting the ball joint on the gutter. It should fall out after two or three swings. That's how I do it. I can't remember if you have to press the new one in, I think I just carefully hammered the new one in.

That car is actually road registered, and blue plated. Don't ask. :(

Received car back from cage builder yesterday. Two weeks away, and there's been a bit of a change. This is now about the minimum spec cage that I'll have in a good car. Pics are a bit ordinary, but you get the idea. It mounts at 8 places, the usual 6 plus through the firewall to the front towers. It's tagged to the body in a further 8 places. Business cards can be distributed on request, although this guy does have a substancial back log. :)

Shades, people have been given PhD's for less research. Well done. Guilt? Nope. Guilt free chocolate eater here. :) Oh to be banished to the shed.......... I might actually get something done!!

Unfortunately you haven't provided a location, and you have posted in the wrong section. Therefore the thread is being closed. Please have a read of this: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?act=SR&f=11 .... and feel free to post again with the required information. Cheers Rollaclub Mods.

Mmmmm, I agree, not a big port drinker myself. Me and my old nav went through a packet of tim tams, which in itself was a large portion of a bottle of schapps. (Very absorbent things, tim tams) The next day was unattractive. Please report back on Drambuie. But I think you'll be hard pressed to go past the schapps. Carry on.

I'm in the Independent Republic of Emerald all next week, thus it has been deemed politically incorrect for me to immediately bugger off to the coast for dinner, as much as I do actually want to. :) Sorry Guys, would have been good.

Not bad, is it? I believe if port is your thing, it's quite good with that, too. :)

For What It's Worth. :)

Steamed dim sims and vinegar.

FWIW I have a 1360cc 3K downstairs.....

I'm glad you asked! :D Have a look here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...c=675&st=45 and maybe the page before as well. Disclaimer: I don't own a 70, nor have I ever, nor am I likely to. This was purely speculating, but I still think my calculations are good.

I did some research on this a looong time ago, and with the geometry of a 70, one shouldn't need an adjustable swaybar.

Try it with butterscotch schnapps instead of coffe. It's like an alcoholic violet crumble tim-tam. :D

Not completely true. Carpet/ deadener is out of mine. Chassis' can be seem welded. You don't need FIA seats and harnesses for anything below interntional events. You don't require racesuits for clubman events. True, you can't 4 ag it. As far as roll cage. More is better. I've taken out the odd tree in my time, and I'm here to tell you the cage can never be to big. I've just hired a midget with a MiG, and when we can just squeeze him out, we're going to stop putting bars in. Trust me, put the extra bars in. I don't care what they weigh, and that you're trying to keep it light, put them in. Now is the time to do it. Please don't do the minimum job. Don't screw with your safety. Mine has the double cross in the rear bars, plus a bar speading the rears as well, harness bar, double side intrusions, roof bar, Sainz bars (hopefully, jury still out on whether we can put them in and still get in and out of the car), plus bars through to the front tower. Yes it's heavy,but when time comes to test it out, you'll be thankful! By purely running AMSAG/ AASA you are REALLY limiting the events you can compete in. Still, gotta start somewhere. :dance:

You can't rally a car with perspex windows. :dance: If you are seriously thinking of rallying this thing, you need to read this: http://www.camsmanual.com.au/road.asp really quickly. The bits you need to read are schedule R and group 3C prc. If I can help you at all, I've built the odd rally car and am in the middle of it again.

For god sake don't get ramflo's. I wouldn't use them to filter urine.

Wouldn't bother, on a standard fuel pump. webers aren't as critical as SU's in this respect. What it does need is dyno time. After having a number of weber powered engines I can tell you that you may think you have them right, but a dyno will really get them zero'd in. It is a must. You probably won't be able to have both trumpets and filters, as the filters have to go over the top of the trumpets. I hate to say it, one or the other.

I knew that car when it was racing.... :dance:

Had butterflies on the Stormrider utes. 3 months of use the butterfly shafts were completely flogged out and useless on all four cars.

Vote 1 : Lowering blocks bad.

I was unable to use trumpets and have an air filter. In fact you look to have more room than i did for some reason. Are you using a KE30 mount? as I've heard they give a bit more tilt for the webers. I had 38 mm between carb and tower. I had some 40 mm sandwich filters made to fit. If you cut your socks , you still have to have the springs in place, otherwise the socks get sucked into the carb. I'll see if I can find a piccie later.... Why have you used two levers for the throttle? All the webers I've seen have been linked via the throttle shft, making adjustment soooooooooo much easier. P.S: nice looking set-up though. :hmm:

LA LA LA LA HAPPY PLACE HAPPY PLACE Sorry, too much information.

Could've been worse. Last time I passed out I was minding my own business heating my lunch in the microwave! It's actually good to have a reason. :hmm: Oh, and serves you right for having a pizza with chilli on it. Bet it worked better than smelling salts though.