Redwarf

The 4 door 20 belongs to a mechanic at City Automotive. It an import many years ago from Fiji, of all places! Unfortunately it's a bit sad. :hmm:

I'm there for four days from Monday to play with Mazdas. :y: Never been there before, but from what I've seen and been told it's a good facility. :hmm:

Only if he wants his car to sit lopsided.

Nope. The only time that car saw the light of day was for competition. It was near a place called Gallangowan. However pics were taken at Samford.

Don't you blokes already have a chat thread? Aren't wanted adverts not meant to be in regional sections?

Refer previous post. :D can't hurt!

get your rear drums machined and work from there.

Thank you for the other pics. I stand corrected. :D R

Nasty. In general these days, most of the tracks I visit want 95dB. The Island used to be 98 I think........ (Can't quite remember. Been awhile..)

Shout me down, but it looks photo shopped to me. Particularly requiring the blue-tac on the bottom of key.

I don't but a couple of others in here do. Have a word with the TRD brothers or Teddy. Need engine mounts, inlet manifold, Mod the exhaust, oil pick up(?). I think there's more. All I know is there's less room to put filters on a 10 than a 25, and a 25 only has 38mm between strut and carb. I had custom air filters (40mm) made. You might be able to fit an airbox, but it might need some massaging to fit.

Don't scimp on pistons or the wash (and hence cam bearings.) Balance would be the optional one for me, but it's an added piece of warm and fuzzy that I would do. Are you planning to put this on a 10? If you are, it's very hard to put air filters on DCOE/DHLA's unless the engine has been uprighted.

Spanners is also a genuine Sprinter. :D I think it came in via PNG. If you ever get to look at the manufactureres plate it has the engine as 3K-B, which none of the Oz ones had.

Nope. You need to get a genuine KE25 Sprinter dash. They have a woodgrain finish, and usually have been imported in some way. I know Coln72 has had a couple......

Nothing a great deal of alcohol didn't fix that night. Drivetrain is good. New shell off to cage builder on Saturday. :cool: That shell needed a front cut, and a rear quarter cut, and some decent time on the rack. As it had already recieved a front right cut before my time, and someone offered us a good rolling shell for $250, the rest is history....... Win, I had no sentimental attachment to that car, so we started again. If it had been my 25, that would have been another story.

This is what we started with. Last round of the Queensland Rally Championship, Car 9 on the road. Had a couple of crappy stages, but starting to get back into it until Crest 80 3L(?). Crested flat in third to discover the corner was not what i was expecting. I then ran out of brakes, ran out of road and then shortly after, ran out of talent.

My 2TG's suck in shrubs and small children as they go by. On song they make a lovely noise. Find a tunnel. slip back two gears. drive through reveling in the induction noise. Turn around. Repeat until out of fuel.

Someone seems to have put my in-car on youtube..... :cool:

From the FAQ: http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit..._Series/Exhaust However, 1.75" would also probably do.

engine?

Frawley's Engine Reconditioning, Redcliffe. As used and recommended by Redwarf Motorsport.

Start here, http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...a_tough_K_motor Then have a bit more of a look around. If you have more questions, feel free to get back to us. :sob:

Start small. 4K, minor rebuild, learn to drive well with little horsepower. You'll thank yourself for it in a couple of years when you are carrying more corner speed than everyone else. So you may not be winning outright, but you'll be learning to drive well, so in a couple of years when you do get grunt, you'll be up the pointy end. Trust me.

I was going to warn you earlier, but my understanding is that it is getting very hard to source 18rg parts. Harder than 2TG.

Not when you stuff a huge wad of steel wool up there it doesn't. :sob: