Redwarf

Supp regs and class info are on their web page, that's the first place I'd start, but I think you'd be having to look 2TG rather than 4AG.

FIA spec cage. FIA belts, FIA clothing. $4K entry for targa, 6K entry for classic adelaide. Plus expenses. Budget 10K for a cheap targa, 15 if you want to do it properly. A KE30 may not make it, but a TE27 or 37 Replica may get in. I already had approval from the C of C for an Isuzu Bellett. The type of vehicle needs to have a "racing heritage", so you may want to give octagon a call to confirm your choice of car. 4AG's in early Corolla's don't cut it. If you go to the Targa Tassie site they should have supp regs and build rules for you to look at. You must have some cubic dolars that you don't like.... :yes:

Can't be sure, but it looks like you may still have a head bolt in on the distributor side about half way down. Why don't you buy a manual?

Dammit, someone's been in my garage again! :dance: You'd leave there with a vitamin E deficiency, wouldn't you? A couple of pieces of Australian rallying history towards the bottom, too.. *sigh*

And I don't just reside in the general forums. I believe it or not protected you from having shit piled on you from a great height. If I wanted to give you a scolding, you'd be a charred mess sitting in front of your computer. If you want to see rude, pop over to Toymods and ask the same question you did...... Abuse of moderators and there doings will not be tolerated. So you know the law of the land, I recommend you read this: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=8093 Item 5.12 should also be of interest to you. Regards, Dwarf

I don't generally do Escorts, but this thing is a certified weapon.

The one that's going in, a fair bit. Main hoop and double cross Front legs and x bar Sainz bars Rear legs and harness bar Double side intrusions Bars from front legs to front strut tower Double roof bars At a guess, around the 50-60 kg mark, but I tend to hit things hard these days. The one I pulled out of the old car was about 40kgs. Teddy, the dash on the 55's are different, and there isn't as much metal to remove. However all captive nuts and brackets that are no longer required are also being removed. I know it seems silly removing all this weight and then sticking a pipe factory inside, but to me it's worth the effort to keep it as trim as possible. The cage is not just safety, but also structurally strengthening as well.

Before you have to don the asbestos suit due to the flaming that you are about to receive, I suggest that you have a GOOD look through this site, Toymods, twimcam.org and if all else fails, Google. We are more than happy to help, but only after you've done a bit of homework. Topics like this are covered everywhere. Other information like how good you are on the tools, if you can fabricate, and how many cubic dollars you would like to throw at it are also handy things for the general populace to give you a good answer. Ie: "I want to fit x into y, and I've read that I have to invert the throbotrons before they go into the flux capacitor, I can't fabricate for shit, and I'm a tight arse and don't want to spend more than a case of Corona's, is this achievable, or do I have my cranium inserted up my own rectum?" People are more than happy to help if you've already done some homework, but they get sick of being asked the same basic questions over and over and......... What I'm trying to say is, do some homework and get back to us. ;) :y:

Not your average hillclimb, and not your average Merc 190E. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rU9mQ7z5JVQ...feature=related

Shannons FTW. I have two very modified, log-booked rally cars. Full comp is around $350 a year per car. BUT, I'm a member of a car club, do limited Km's, and have all the right paper work for them.

Been discussed before. The problem being is that bike engines aren't exactly torque-city. You really need a sub 500Kg car IMHO for it to be anywhere near worthwhile. I Personally think it would be near undrivable in the city. Bike engines go well in Clubmans, but anything heavier and I think you're trying to re-invent the wheel.

Gigi Galli. I'm really starting to like this guy. http://www.motorsportmad.com/view/1570/gigi-galli-tribute

Trust me, don't shorten the shifter, that's why we go to all the hassle of shortening the throw. Cutting the length down moves the.... errrrr.... for want of a better word, knob down thus meaning your hand has further to go to change gears. With the right length shift, it is only a short movement to change and then get back on the wheel (where it should be), as well as having a short throw, and a positive shift. Shortening the gear lever length is kind of counter productive.

Don't want the job, but I'll remember what you do for future reference.... :y:

Always used Mk II because it was far sexier and better made. The MkI was a case of, "gee I wonder if this works.." and it did. As the shift was going to reside in a competetion car the decision was made to build the second one, and someone I know had made the offer to machine it up. I can't see why the MkI wouldn't work long term, all that I would do is check it for cracks occasionally. That was the advantage of the MkII, as it is one piece made from king hard steel, it's never going to bend or crack, and hadn't had large amounts of heat put through it by welding. Try it, find out, keep a spare in the boot for a bit, and get back to us!! :y:

Thanks Cam!

You would have to be really retentive to do that, as well as collecting all of the body deadener in a box to see what it weighs..... I'll let you know when I have the scales downstairs again...... :y:

We set one of those up in a frame with a Sparco race seat (surplus to requirements at that stage). Awesome.

Certainally can. It makes it all quite tight and slick actually. The gear that I had a marginal amount of hassle with was Reverse. Still want in ok, but you had to be careful with the shift. I used it in competition and never missed a shift. Literally.

I don't do technology, anybody around here will confirm that! Shortcuts are out. It's all I can do to even make the letters appear on the screen.......

Probably. Normal operating procedure dictates that you should. If you've been REALLY careful taking them off, you might just be able to goo them up and go. But it is better to change it.

Yes , but the fingers still have to physically type it.... :y: Torque settings are also in the FAQ as well I think.......

Manifolds off and you'll be good to go.

Hello all. Just thought I'd put up some piccies of the short shifter I built. Mark I shifter was done by welding an extra piece of metal into the g/box end of the shifter. The extra length was around 20 mm. A spacer plate was made up for to go between the extension housing and the shifter mount. The photo's below are from the Mark II effort. A new lower section of the shifter was machined from tool steel. The extra length was 18 mm. Another spacer was also machined up out of 18mm thick Alloy. The reduction in shift throw was around 50%. Now manufacturing a new lower section of shifter is tricky, and takes someone fairly handy on the tools (ie: I didn't actually make it, someone talented did). Another option would be to only machine up only the end of the shift. ie from the big ball thingy to the tip. You could cut the existing end off, and thread the new one into the ball. the trick would be getting the exact length correct. Food for thought. Standard vs modded shifter. Spacer on box side.

Got weight reduction program??