Redwarf

Build a 4K. It's easier. I did it to stay in the class that I wanted to. The conrods foul on the sides of the bore with a 4K crank, so we scalloped the bores, and also massaged the sump for the same reason. I'm semi sponsered by my engine builder so although the whole motor was well into the 4 figure territory, it was "worth" a great deal more due to the development that went into it that I didn't pay for. For example, six different types of piston were tried before settling on the ones we ended up with. Budget and this type of build are not two words you would use together.

I've got just the engine. I just need to work out how to download the video from my phone. One owner, 26000 lbs of thrust. Can mod to fit roof racks.

3K block. 4K crank. Can't remember the size of the pistons, but they were CB Charade with capacity out to 1359.9 Standard height head, but pistons machined down (too high) to give 10.9:1 Hot 202 blue motor valve springs. 25/65 Cam, with about .430 lift. Balanced. 4-2-1 custom HPC coated extractors, 2 1/4 exhaust. Twin SU's to start, (really good), ended with twin 40mm Webers. (even better.) This thing sang. Did 5 years work as a PRC rally motor, and still as strong as the day I put it in. Have now gone 2TG.

The older I get, the faster I was. :y:

:y: ............ The mod that passes in the night.............

It's not what you've got, it's what you do with it. I ran a hot 3K for years very successfully against cars of much bigger capacity.

Yep. That's the shit we're talking about, Australia. I started off thinking "Another tool who's thrown something together from 100 yards, and now waiting for it to go bang." But am now very pleasantly surprised. As Mr Shades stated above, that's how you do it. Look and learn people. |blink|

Wrong area. Try the wanted to buy section. :)

Cold nights in Maryborough! Congrats Col. We all know you did all the hard work. :)

Sunday Arvo or Monday I'm available. From there I'm working nights til next weekend, when I'm free again.

Whoa! Dude, someone moved your steering wheel to the wrong side! :dance: Seriously, welcome to Rollaclub. Nice to see these things still exist in other countries other than Oz. We didn't really get the Starlet in Australia, although our neighbours in New Zealand did. Hopefully one of our brothers from over the dutch can help, or possibly PM Mikey's Toy (He's from your way) or TRD, or his brother TRDKe70, as both these boys have had experience with Starlets. Hope this points you in the right direction. :) Good luck! R

You're more than welcome to bring it over to the House of Dwarf for manufacture. I have a Mig and a small Plasma cutter. I've also made the odd seat mount. I'm in sunny Aspley. :)

As above. Regonal forums are not the place for wanteds. :)

Guys, sort it out between yourselves, not on the board. Buyer should beware, but seller should also be honest. I don't know which it is, and nor an I really caring. A forum isn't a place to air your dirty laundry. Sort it. Go to PM's or ring each other up and sort it. If any dishonesty can be PROVEN ON EITHER SIDE (not just he said blah blah blah), PM me. :D

http://optuszoo.news.ninemsn.com.au/articl...amp;_cobr=optus This guy is wasting our oxygen. He's getting his Warhol moment, he'll be nobody in a month and I hope his parents leave him in the cold.

Two jobs, do each for around six months of the year. Licenced Aircraft Engineer, working contract work, mainly for Virgin Blue. For the rest of the time I work as an Advanced Driver Trainer, working all over Oz, mainly for Mazda, but also doing a lot in the mines. It pays the bills. 8/

It would need a rack in it first before a quick rack. The diff centre is not compatible with an AE86 cusco diff. It should have either a borg warner or jap u series if it's standard. If you have a t series in there, you've already done well. Discs are what you can make fit. Have a look at anything by Demuire as he has the Pug/ Land Cruiser conversion on his. I have EVO1 rotors and VT 2 spots that will go on to mine shortly. Lots of info about here and on toymods, searching through will get you good info. Have never over heated drums and I've done worse things than you could ever have imagined to race and rally cars over many years. Rear discs can be done relatively easily. Leaf resets and adding leaves should be able to be done competently by any REPUTABLE suspension shop. Hope this helps. 8/ R

I've had one go through the valve and jam between the piston and head. Engine no spin. Car stop. Pull head off to get out. Save yourself the bother and pull the manifold off and retreive it before bad stuff happens.

Early KE20 3K's were green, and the engine number was halfway along the block. Late KE20 3K's were red, with the engine number towards the front of the block. ....... or vice versa. You'll notice when you have a look. 8/ 74 would more than likely be the red one.

The difference is that those cars have been ADR'd with the fibreglass components. The official argument is that by changing to composite panels, you're effecting the impact zones......

I've done a 25 and a 55, and they came out at 10 and 12 kg's respectively. 22 it would have been a Cadillac.

Yes you need a roadworthy, but IIRC you don't need to present the car itself to transport if it was registered in your name.

Its called the difference between 10 kg's, and going deaf.

Here we go: http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/road/1112...ssic%20Q108.pdf From what I read the Ke30 only came out as a TE30, with the 2T engine. To go 2TG you would need a coupe/ hardtop shell. 4AG's are out being too new and too many valves. That's the bible, that's what you have to conform to. Also, have a look at this: http://www.targa.com.au/Competitors/VehicleSelection.html Happy reading. :yes: R

Supp regs and class info are on their web page, that's the first place I'd start, but I think you'd be having to look 2TG rather than 4AG.