Redwarf

Are you doing your RWC at work, or would you like one that I can organise?

What you're after is called a Phantom Grip. The 6" Lsd's are strong, and if you're sticking with a K motor, will be strong enough for your needs. The only problem is with those is that I've only ever seen two.

New seals are nice but try this first.... Get your spark plug tubes out and you will probably note that the top flange is no longer at 90 degrees, due to years of gorillas doing them up. The tubes are made of fairly soft Aluminium, so get a small hammer and taparound the top flange so that it's just over 90deg. Maybe put a little petroleum jelly around the o-ring if you haven't already got newies (avail from places like Repco). Nip them up, but don't over tighten. It may also pay to give the bases a bit of a tap if they're looking a bit ordinary, to square them up as well.

I'd go the Pedders. but then I'm sponsered by them. :hmm: I will say that I've found there product to be quite good over the years.

The first thing to do is degrease the crap out of it, and see where it is coming from (roughly) If it's coming from between the box and engine, it'll be a rear main seal. (Annoying time consuming fix.) Around the front pulley it'll be a front crank seal. (Easier, but the big nut on the front can be a bastard..... more on that if you need it.) Another common place is around the spark plug tubes. They may require..... ummmm... adjusting. Once again, call us back if it's that one. They seem to be the usual culprits. If there's decent sized puddles, I'll place my bet now on a rear main. HTH R

My 25 is on club reg, but this one will be full reg. They pretty much get trailered everywhere, and if it coes hit the road, it's driven very sedately. I've driven rally cars on the road (and there'll be no mistaking this one when it's finished :hmm:) for years, and I've found as long as you behave, Mr Blue leaves me alone. Touch wood, have never been pulled over in a sign written rally car. :y: Yep, that's probably a bit OTT, but i like it. I really can't tell you the price as I'm a return customer, and am in the process of doing him a favour, thus I'm pretty sure I didn't pay as much as I should have.

... And there you are. Comments from the Super Coach. :hmm:

As much as I like 2TG's (I have two cars with them), I think you'd be mad to put one in an AE86. It's an old technology engine, whereas the 4 AGE is at least one, probably two generations in technology newer. It would be like getting a Commodore with a GenIII, and putting a 308 carb motor in it. AE86's are made for 4AGE's. If you wanted to be different, a 3SGE (MR2) engine would be the direction I'd take. I don't know how you would get away legally either (emissions), putting an older motor in a newer car.

^^^^ That's gold, Doug. Not being a forced induction man myself, I figured it would be something like that, but have never seen details like that. That's a really good little chart. I can go to bed happy and content, having learnt my one thing for the day. :hmm:

Even I knew that!! Having said that I only found out the last time this same question was asked.... :hmm:

Where as I look at something even remotely dodgy, and am shitting through the eye of a needle for the next 48 hours. Barstard!

My choice of dyno? ie: one that's been calibrated since it was installed?

85hp ATW, 120hp at the fly. 1360cc 3K rally motor. All dyno'ing done in 4th 1:1 as it should be. If they're doing runs in 3rd, figures may not be right. I've been playing with 3/4K's for many years, and if you can do 90 hp ATW without DCOE's, a BIG peaky cam and some serious head work, I'd be very suprised. I'll bring the popcorn on dyno day.

You'll get that anyway.... :dance:

Dude, this thread is six months old. We had a different government when this thread was last used.

Meh, it really just wore out. Nothing went bang as such, it just got tired after about two seasons.

Well, it was back in the days of AvGas, thus we were looking for 11:1 plus. Can't remember what we ended up with, but it went well for a while.

Brodie, this belongs in the wanted to buy section. Not the regional forums. Yes I know you're in Perth, which is the other side of the planet. No, I don't really care, as this is a long standing rule of the board that thou shalt not put classifieds in regional sections. Regards, Dwarf

You're talking about a ball joint splitter. We're talking about removing the ball joint altogether.

Hookers are getting expensive these days. Dude, I could buy pretty much anything on the market. My road cars have all the mod cons, and I buy them new. Neither of my Corolla's are shitboxes, and they certainly have more pull than a lawn mower. Comments like that are only going to reduce any credibilty that you may have.

Just remember the golden rule of modified cars: Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Pick two.

Ten to twenty is what they'd take off in a normal sort of skim. I once had a head that was shaved .125". The screwdriver holes for lifting the head off weren't there anymore. Twenty would be fine. As would probably anything up to .060"

That's what I thought the first time I did them. Then I took them to the suspension shop that now sponsers me, and the above technique was used, although substitute piece of railway line for gutter. :(

You do know that I'm an aircraft engineer by trade? :(

Hi teddy, Still no can come, but will wave you all off from Maccas. R