Redwarf

Probably. :lolcry: Jusy be careful with the fronts, or they may never come off again!

Very, very thin. I'll keep my eyes open though. I don't usually like sending stuff, but sometimes you have to make an exception. :lolcry:

I'd say that you're not doing anything that hasn't already been done before. What do you want to use the car for?

A bloke called Ian Oglevie runs a datto 1200 in rallies up that way and is ballistic fast. Still A-series motor, too. Almost did the last QRC round that TCAC ran a few years back, but sadly cancelled due lack of numbers. My 3K was out to about 1360cc's. We could have bunged it out to just over 1400, but that would have stuck me up a class. (Although it now has a 2TG) You'll find the tarmac regs on the CAMS site. As far as the homologaion papers go, I think the scrut is being a bit over the top. All you need to prove is that the engine came with the car, and the factory manual can do that for you. It's also a recognised document, and perfectly legal to present for compliance. There's a couple of Corolla's down this way competeing in rallys, but most of them (including both my cars) are 2TG powered. It does need to be said though, that I ran my 25 for about 15 years with a 3K, and was reasonably competitive in most thngs it did. Cheers, Rob

I've competed against the new owner of that car on more than one occasion, and I can tell you that my 3K powered 25 has accounted for it on each occasion. It's not what you've got, it's what you do with it. You don't really need the homologation papers for your 20. The only reason i have them is to prove that my 35 (and now my 25) came with a 2TG. What you need to do is go to the CAMS.com.au website, and look in the CAMS manual for the events that you want to drive in. That will give you a much better direction to travel in. For rallying, most things on a car that age are free, with the exception of engine block. If your building something, remember to ask lots of questions, and make sure something complies before you do it. :lolcry:

Where abouts are you wanting this to be legal? I however doubt it very much. I doubt that it would be brighter. LED's tend to not have the penetration required to be a decent torch, let alone a light to drive with. With the lights on my 35, I can see approximately 3km's. Can't see an LED doing that. You can try it, but I really doubt it's effectivity.

The fact is that you do not know where the internal fluid galleries are, unless you have a spare set of calipers that you can sacrificially put across a band saw to see the cross section. These are your brakes. They stop the car. If in doubt, don't.

From Autosport.com: One of the greats, from a golden era of motorsport. For those that don't know who he was, here's something to read. http://www.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/68206

That would be this car here: http://public.fotki.com/fookseung/automoti...2/02290046.html (Photo by Fook. :lolcry:)

Comfirmed. Sort of. It was actually a KE25 with 2/3TG. He ran it for about a year. Now owned by a guy on the gold coast. Seen at club events occasionally. Has some serious stick. *edit* I think I have a picture of it somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

I'm convinced they came out of the factory with about an inch of slop.

WARNING: don't try this at home. I got to the point with one car where I loosened of the wheel nuts a bit, and drove around a corner to get them loose! The throwing of spare wheel at stuck wheel method usually works though......

I did all of mine as I swapped them about a fair bit, but you only need it for front clearance. You only need to take minimal material out (maybe a mm?), but you'll know when you try to fit them if you've taklen enough off. You can fit them without taking material off (by doing up the wheel nuts, it ends up being a press fit), but you'll have REAL issues getting them off again.

Don't forget to open up the centre hole..... :D

Take a picture and we'll tell you.

Suprisingly well. :D Although the 40A alternator had to go as it stuggled with the 4 x 100W Cibies as well as the 130W high beams.....:D

I have Autopal H4 inserts with 100/130w globes. I see stuff. :D

Yes.

No idea, but i know they fit and work well. :D

I always used to use RX4 rims with 185/60 tyres. Speedo wasn't out that much, if at all. The centre hole needs a slight file out before fitting to the front, otherwise you can put them on, and nothing short of a small thermo nuclear device will get them off again. I've also used the RWD 626 rims as well. They're all 13 x 5.5 as far as I know.

Whereas I subscribe to the polar opposite thought. I don't touch swaybars, if at all, until I have shocks, springs and anything else I want to do out of the way. You change one item, se if you like it, see what it does, then move to the next item. That way you can tune the suspension knowing exactly what you have done. I recommend not doing springs, shocks, bushes swaybars in one hit, because if it handles like a sack of shit, you don't know what is causing it.

I had some custom 40mm unifilters made up for mine. I'll try and get some pics....

It was as Doug said, light green. Early 3K's were also light green. about half way through the 20 series, they changed the block slightly, and painted them red.

Should be able to get them through CAMS. I have copies of 5420 and 5603, for future reference. :bash:

If you google GSL rallysport, you should be able to get his website. * Try this: http://www.gslrallysport.com/shop/