Redwarf

Where are you, and how much money and expertise do you have?

I think we're going to have to rename this Jon's agro thread. Sorry about the other day in traffic, I was living the dream in the Paj and didn't see you down there. Everybody else is just so..... small. Must give the beast a wash and a quick polish, I picked up some yellow paint on it from somewhere. :)

I reckon this thread is over twelve months old, too........

Okay. :) The pics above are of my newly arrived TE27 crossmember, and the pedal assy on the left is also 27. Thus today's progress was fitting the crossmember. On the 20's, there's a large "lump" that protrudes from the firewall. It's where the back of the heater/ fan sits. As I no longer have this contraption in the car (it's heavy.. :yes:), I took the lump out, due to the fact that there isn't a lot of room behind a 2TG for access to bolts. Thus, lump removed, plate manufactured and installed, Mig like. Off to a rally for the weekend. More next week.

I was actually the second genuine TCCA(vic) member after the merger (after Steve Ruffles if memory serves). Everybody else was either CCCV (Booooo!!!!) or TOCV (Yayyyyy!!!!!!) :) I can't believe Van Newman is president still. He was one of the founding members of TOCV back in the day (about 1837 I believe). Someone please pass my regards to the elder statesman. :yes:

Somebody also told me the moon was made out of cheese. You are going to need to move the mount on the crossmember. There's a good chance you will also need to change your swaybar to clear the sump. Go to repco and ask for a ta22 master. They should be all the same. Gear box mount should be fine if you have the bolt holes in the chassis about 6 inches further back than where it currently mounts. If you want to make it perfect, you may need to move the holes sideways a bit. I know I had to do get a tailshaft made for the 37, so I expect you'll need one for a 20. (I managed to source one already made for mine.)

Given that people have been putting 200+hp through leaves since before most people here were even DNA, I can't see a problem. Anybody who says you can't is having a lend of both you and themselves. There seems to be a fear amoungst the modern car enthusiast about leaves, but I suggest this is through ignorance rather than fact. Okay, they're probably not as good as a link set-up, but a good well set-up pack will take anything that you will throw at it. It'll do 80kw standing on their proverbial head. I've run leaves for years in 20 and 30 series Corolla's with some good hp motors. Can be done.

I'm happy now. New stuff has arrived.... :P

Pity aboout the dog, John. Did you know that in Sth Australia it used to be legal (ney, expected) to shoot a cat if it didn't have a collar? If anybody is interested, I have a HUGE collection of collars for sale after my last trip down there. :P

Or you fail the attitude test.......

Make it readable next time. Try again. :P

If you really want them back, find a round headlight wreck, drill the spot welds on each car and transfer the whole rad support panels. I've just had to do that on one of my cars......

The Australian AE86 came with the 4AC single cam motor. The Japanese version had the 4AG twin cam. No Australian delivered model (ADM) AE86's had the 4AG. You can make a 4AC go, but it's FAR easier to get a 4AG. The pros of the 4AC are that they are common. The cons are that they make great boat anchors. Remember people to paint them blue, that way you wont scare the fish.

From the SA legislation: 54—Tyre tread (1) A tyre on a motor vehicle must not have cleats or other gripping devices that could damage road surfaces. (2) Except at tread wear indicators, a tyre fitted to the vehicle must have a tread pattern at least 1.5 millimetres deep in a band that runs continuously: (a) across: (i) for a vehicle with a GVM over 4.5 tonnes—at least 75% of the tyre width that normally comes into contact with the road; or (ii) for another vehicle—the tyre width that normally comes into contact with the road; and (b) around the whole circumference of the tyre. (3) A vehicle must not be fitted with a tyre that has been treated by recutting or regrooving the tread rubber, unless the tyre was: (a) constructed with an extra thickness of rubber designed for recutting or regrooving; and (b) labelled to indicate the construction Now strictly speaking they're talking about the tread area, however you could read it as being the external surface of the tyre. *edit* for those of you that are tired of life, here's the link: http://www.legislation.sa.gov.au/lz/c/r/ro...1999.235.un.pdf

Oh dear God. How ugly could this get....... http://www.dailymotion.com/fr/channel/extr...dchariotsracing

That's come up REALLY nice. Well done. :fuzz:

^^^^ Yep he's right. I ran them years ago, and always with the white lettering to the inside.

^^^^^ Confirmed. Very different shape.

Day to day I don't. I like reliable aircon that doesn't stop the car when I turn it on. Cruise control I also can't live without. I can also fit biblical amounts of crap in my daily driver, and then take it wherever the hell I please. It doesn't break down, the heater works (always) and I don't have to worry about the police and modifications. I don't have to turn my CD player up that loud to hear it. Nor do I have to worry about chokes or carbies, points, dizzys or spark plugs for that matter. I can get in it and KNOW that I can drive BNE- MEL- BNE and only have to look at the fuel guage and nothing else. They make great little race cars, but. :sob:

I had a complete kit in my 67 Bellett. That thing still had the plastic on the doors. :sob:

Remove strut: Calipers off. Remove brake line from strut. Two bolts at bottom, three at top. Install spring compressors. Not essential, but a big help. Remove big arse nut from top of strut shaft. I use a rattle gun, and can be tricky if you don't have one. Remove spring. Install is basically the reverse of the above.

I have a set with 175-60's, and another with 185-60's. Both work well.

I know one of my Weber'd 2TG's put down 117hp ATW on a reputable dyno.

What fuel is it running on?

You're going to have to run that thing on PULP. Nothing you have told me there makes me really open my eyes, except to say that it's probably a good rebuild. 11:1 is a bit high for a street motor (IMHO). However, you are not going to see any benifit unless you sort out the induction and exhaust issues.