Redwarf

Vote 2 Mustard yellow. |blink|

Mmmmm NACA ducts. Like inverted bonnet scoops. |blink|

Dude, you're going to love the stress test. I got to 16 minutes before I asked them how much longer, and they told me they had all the data they needed, they just wanted to see how long I could go for!

I'll ask again, is the car rego's to you or your parents? Just because it's engineered, doesn't mean they have to insure it. You, being 18 are at the highest risk point of your driving life, which already makes insurance companies cringe. The fact that you are trying to get around it by being a nominated driver may seem like a good idea ATM, but if it can be proven that you are the primary driver, the insurer doesn't have to pay up. Hence myquestion about who's name it's rego'd under. It's essentially not the car they don't like (mostly), it's you. They consider an 18 YO in a modified vehicle too bigger risk to insure. I have a PRC spec KE35 with all your mods and more, and it costs me $350 fully comp. I'm 36.

In that case there's two, as Al Palmer's is the real deal as well (as personally sighted by me :jamie:), although his is not ADM.

Photo by Haikal.

I'm going to cut and paste the exact post I wrote out 3 days ago for the exact same question. And now I'm going to close this thread, before it gets any sillier. :jamie:

Is it a genuine TE27, or a built one?

I've always wanted one of these SOOOOOooooooooo badly. Tell me how it goes. :)

About $30 at your local tool provider will buy you a spot weld drill or a "zip cut" as they are sometimes called. Much cleaner and easier than breaking the spot weld.

What mods are done to the car, and can you legally drive it on P-plates? Are you the registered owner or your parents?

There has been a thread put on stand-by in the classifieds due commercial sales and admin are sorting it out. That's where your post has got to. The group buy was by this company via a member retrd.

They'd be the puppies. 4x114.3. Not sure of the offset. *Edit*: going by the markings, I'd say they're +27.

While we're at it, you asked exactly the same question here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=24793 At which point I gave you some friendly advice which you have chosen to ignore. Before this thread really loses the plot, I'm going to put it out of it's misery. :)

I'm using a TA diff with flares (and the required body work to suit) with RT142 snowflake mags. Fits very nicely, but would have issues without the flares.

THAT'S the shit we're talking about, Australia! Nice lower arms, too. :) Let us know how it goes. R

They're a machine, and they break. Apart from the extra veiwing hole they stuck in the side of the Jumbo a couple of months ago, everything else "reported" by the media is another day at the factory for any other airline. Example: I sent 175 people to stay in a hotel the other night due a defect. Didn't hear that on the news, but gaurantee you would have if it was Qantas. If it comes in and it's f@$ked, we fix it, then it flys. If it takes a few hours for the middle bit, so be it. But I'm sure you'd prefer it that way.

For a start it won't bolt straight into your 25. You wll need to cut the TA spring mounts off, and weld leaf spring mounts on. The diff will be wider than your original one, so you'll at the very minimum required wheels with offsets the put the wheels inside the guards more. Don't know about tailshaft. Master should be fine, but any master other than the original would be better than the one you have.

No. Mostly. I do know of an a-series with a t50, but it has a custom bell housing. BTW: there's no such thing as fully worked. There's always someone who'll go that bit further. :)

Thread cleaned. Time to grow up and act like adults. Keep acting like petulant children and I won't be happy.

Gday, and welcome to rollaclub. A couple of handy hints for you so that you time here will be well spent. The main one is make your posts readable to anyone over the age of 25. SMS speak is a pain to anyone not used to it, and as older people are more likely to have the answers you seek, you're excluding a large slab of experience when you do so. The other one is search and you shall seek. Many topics have been covered before. The rides and projects threads are a wealth of knowledge, and if it's not covered somewhere in there, then it probably can't be done. Try putting more info into you post. We can make many different suggestions, but if you only have $300, not many of them will be practical. You have to keep in mind that we get asked very opened ended questions like yours about once a day at the moment, so if you don't have a think about the questions you ask, you're not going to get answers you're happy with. Regards Dwarf

Yes it is a problem if you don't fix it. If you're any good on the tools, a couple of hours to change the gasket. (My personal best is 45 minutes.) That's if it's just the gasket, which it probably is. I suggest that if you have the head off, to take it to get reco'd. Any legit machine shop can do it, probably cost $200-300, and everything will be straight and flat and gooly again. You can get all the gaskets you need in one pack. Once again, any good auto parts store should be able to help you there.

If they're my old rims, I ran them for 15 years as they are, and they would be about as loose as you have them now. Both myself and the previous owner (They were on a 20 Club Car) perpetrated evil with extreme prejudice and never had issues. Nobody ever looked twice.

I don't think you'll get alot more than 2.5deg castor without modding the arms. See how you go. I ran 0 toe on a rally car, you may want to run a few mm toe out as Styler suggested. At some point really soon you're going to run out of adjustment on your tie rods as well. I replaced mine with longer ones off some random Corona that was in my local wreckers. Good luck and let us know how you go. Are you running at the hillclimb down there? I used to frequent the old Morwell one on occasions about 10 years back. :D

In Tarmac trim, -3 camber, and about 4 deg castor. Machined the castor rods to tap more thread on, and wound them forward as far as they can go til they just missed the front guards. You will never eliminate it, but it helps.