Redwarf

Given that you were looking at SR5 ones in the States, (I'm a bit rusty here) I believe it should be for a TE Corolla, which to my understanding has different struts to our Au ones. I can also tell you that in 20 odd years I've never seen off the shelf ones for a 2x series in Australia.

Another idea for you. Gauranteed not to bend.

Noice. I heartily endorse this service or product. I'm reco'ing mine ATM, and I'm pretty sure it won't turn out that good. Are you going to apply to get it it's own postcode? It's big enough.... :P

Get the parts. Pay someone to make them. Mine were made by Pedders. I may know someone who MIGHT be able to run up a set for you in Melbourne. I'll try and get back to you in a day or two.....

Never used ione. Take it off if you can't be bothered.

Yes I have one. Yes I use the Land rover Clutch master. However my pivot points aren't right and you need to be..... positive (for want of a better word) in it's application. I used a standard hand brake lever, and thuas the cable is still vaguely connected for mechanical backup. Not that it'll actually work, but the thought is there. Is it legal? I don't think so. But there's a whole lot more on the car that they'd worry about first. But then it's also a very recognisably a purpose built rally car. No I've never cracked the floor in 18 years of abuse. Good strong Jap metal that. Would I do it to a road car? No. I don't see any point. For giggles, here's a picture of a car I've done some work on, which has a legal set-up due to the two independant systems. *edit* Pic is on the laptop, I'll get it later.

Hmmm Christmas Day. Fly to the Soloman Islands for an hour. Then come home. Great day this one. :D

It's the best thing ever isn't it? Congratulations. :D

Says he with the 207 pixel picture. :D

Hmmmm yep. That would be why.:bash:

Bugger me, how big do you need it to be? What do you want to tow? I've always gone for light weight trailers. My current one is 515kg, with a GVM of 1800. Thus I'm able to tow just about any rally car I know short of an EVO. I must say I don't have a full floor or sides on mine, and thus save weight that way. Just remember the heavier it is, the bigger the tow car. Winches are easy, you don't need to build them so they're 3 feet off the deck like hire ones, I have a 5-1 basicaly mounted on a cross piece on the drawbar.

I know demuire had a LOT of trouble getting an early Celica box to work behind his 4AG. I also doubt a TA pedal box will fit.

Question already asked elsewhere, with a bit more info. :bash:

For some reason I thought (and have done all day) that you were looking for sushi........ I was sitting here thinking "Why would you go to a Quix for sushi??" *Face-palm*

Ben, not completely true. The weakest point is generally the vertical lugs that are welded to the strut plate. i.e the bit between the bar and the plate. They can and do bend before at the same time the car does. It's usually at this point that you have other problems as well. Like having to port-a-power your strut towers back again..... Therefore if you have a strong enough bar, the towers shuldn't bend. A bar with a weak point, slightly stronger towers, but not as strong as it could be. Or something. Falken. No it won't damage the car. As for what it does: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strut_bar

The only thing the gal would do is add weight. With all due respect, if an alloy tube is sufficient for my purpose, it'll be adequate for yours. The forces on the tube are acting in comperssion. You are not going to compress 32mm tube with a decent wall thickness. Therefore the gal is redundant.

Okay, with strut braces, if you're looking to compete in competition, you need to check the rule book. All of the ones that I've briefly checked state something like this: Thus one going from tower to tower is probably the best option. Most common braces are two flat plates, a raised bracket with an adjustable bar. A common fault with most mass-manufactured bars is that the plates and bracket bend, as they are not strong enough. Most people this isn't a problem, as most people have them for wank value. I personally have bent a few. I don't have a photo of the bent brackets, but this is what I had to do after: That was n the old car. I manufactured new brackets for for that and all was ... better. With the new car a bar was manufactured for it. The base plates are 5mm alloy, and the bar is 32mm OD alloy tube of about 3.5-4mm wall thickness. Can't remember to be honest. The bar is solid, and far better than anything you'll buy off the rack. If you look at the bottom pic, additional strength to the tower is gained by running a bar from the front leg of the cage to the strut tower, which is legal.

If you have a cubic amount of dollars, anything is possible, but it doesn't mean that it will be practical. What do you want to use it for?

I'll take a pic of my good one. It's made from Aluminium, welded and super strong. I'll see if I can get it up tomorrow/ tonight....

Enough character assasination. I think we get the idea. :lmao:

Honestly guys, you should have realized it would only be a matter of time before a Mod looked in here. I haven't had a look mainly because the thread title contained the word "drift" and I knew as soon as I looked the I'd start getting a migraine. You all KNOW that discussing illegal actions on this board is not acceptable. It's all fun and games until you screw up. The roads are not race tracks. Do somethng useful and join a car club. :lmao:

In that case with a turbo it would be pointless.

Tighe Cams. Personally I wouldn't build another engine to rev that high. They're a bit pointless. I know the 4AG will do it, but you really sacrifice anything down low, which makes it hard to drive on the road, and believe it or not, on the track, unless you're a serious peddler with clairvoyant gear selection.

At least you've been to sleep....... I'm going to bed in about an hour.....

Whoops wrong way around. The strut top mount point on the whitelines are weak.