Redwarf

Nothing I can say or do will be of much help at this point. Some days I really struggle with what goes on in this world, and things like this don't change those thoughts. All the best to you and your family, I hope you find the answers you seek. Requiscat In Pace regards, Rob.

That' cool. Just remember to look. :D As far as redline goes, for self preservation set it at 6-6.5 K. You'll then have a happy 4K for years to come.

Touche. (I'd put one of those ' things pver the e, but I don't know how.:D)

Dude, this thread is 18 months old........

Ahhhh, if I had but a dollar for each time this question has been answered. http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...Tacho_Into_KE70 Also, if you search in this, the electrical section, you will find at least two more threads on the subject.

Hmmmm.... Srcutineers might get a bit suspicious of that one. I don't think they're in the PRC regs... :D

...... like it was made for it.....

Stickied. Best of luck. :D

Tempted? A bit. I've run this car for many years without, and like the feel. Thus this master is going on without a booster. If you want the metal template when time comes, give me a call and I'll post it down.

Okay. Levin pedal assembly is now in. Started with a cardboard template to find where the holes are meant to go, as at this point I thought that I'd be able to use some of the original holes. I then transfered it to metal when I realised that all the holes were going to be different. If you look at the firewall of a 25, you can see where the holes for the different pedal box are meant to be, but have been left undrilled by Toyota. I removed the factory stiffener from where the brake master used to live, as this was going to get in the way of where the clutch master is going to live. New holes drilled, and assy dummy fit. Old brake master hole welded up. and new lower mount hole drilled. As I removed the stiffener from the now clutch side, I made up a new stiffener from 2mm plate to add support. I also made one for the brake side as the firewall was a bit thin there as well. The masters fit in there quite nicely. And another dummy fit on the pedal box, to make sure the push rod lengths are satisfactory.

KE20= 4x110 TE2x= 4x114.3

good idea, and probably what you should have done in the first place. :lolcry:

The first thing you need to do is ignore the two marks on the front of the pulley. They are not timing marks. You are looking for a notch in the rear, top of the pulley. This is your timing mark. Put the gun on it, set your timing properly, then get back to us.

x3 Also refer post #2

I have a black Lab called George. I wanted to change the cats name to Mildred. :yes:

Topic title edited. Some people read this forum at work. :yes:

$500 - $1500 depending on condition.

Linkages seem to be there. You need two lots of fuel going in, a throttle cable setup, and half a clue.

Never released in Australia. The few that I know of came in via PNG and Fiji. Bare in mind that it's probably only worth what a good 20 is worth here, even for its rarity.

Super clean square headlight 55 Hardtop, pale blue with P-plates, at one of those stupid dodgy-arsed roundabouts in Bardon. Looked really good. :)

Anything but Kings. You can buy lowered ones, stiffer ones and all of the above. Contact a reputable suspension shop. You can always sell them off when you get your new struts.

Don't be cheap. Buy new ones.

Looks like a reasonable job. Standard quarter cut. I've seen much worse jobs. (I've done much worse jobs!) *shrug* I'd pass it if it looked pretty.

look at the tags below VVVVVVV

They;re twin SU's. Don't know what size, although some can tell by the stud pattern. The bottom carbs are either Dellortos or Solexs. (I've only ever had webers, so I find it hard to tell.....) You'll need to probably rebuild them, get a manifold, put them on and send it to the dyno. Budget $700 to $1000 to get spot on, and forget about fuel economy. For a daily I'd be looking at setting up the SU's.