kangaroosa

Are you saying all electrics are dead? If so, check the fusible link near the battery. I blew one ages ago and couldnt work out why i had no power until i realised the link was there.

A Pair. Mine were second hand, but they were in near perfect condition. The hazing on them is just some oil.

Yup, worst case they'll set you back $700 a pair supplied and machined.

I can't find a pic of mine. But mine just had some fuel hose attached to the vent and then was cable tied to the fuel bowl, so any fuel that leaked was vented downwards and away from the exhaust. Mine never leaked any serious amount of fuel. Might be worth checking your fuel pressure to make sure the needle and seat is not being overpowered.

I've never heard of Rotary Crate Motors. I could be wrong in saying, but there isnt the demand for prebuilt motors of this nature. I know when i got my BP built, I went to a workshop of my choice to get it done. You can always go to an importer or workshop to get a low km's import motor. I think Atkins Rotary may do changeover motors and they organise the freight etc.

Bookshop I have a copy of this. Its a good read and comes in handy if you want to get some knowledge on the concept of tuning Weber and Dellorto carbs. It gives suggested jetting specs for different capacity engines (good enough to get you driving safely to the dyno). It explains what parts of the carby come into operation at certain rev ranges. I highly suggest buying this book if you plan to tune your own car as it will save you money replacing main jets when you may need to be changing air correction jets or emulsion tubes etc.

TRX - R31 Steelies are about +30 or +32 offset. They fitted fine on my KE30 with 195/50 15 Tyres. The rears sat pretty inboard from memory with a standard diff.

Good Job Col Am keen to see some pics of the latest car. I still remember the story about lost skin when you slid the last one.

The problem i think i was having is that i was looking at the Normally Closed circuit part numbers because thats what the Std part number suggested. In hindsight, I guess an open circuit is logical as it will become a closed circuit at the right temp. Have i mentioned that i hate auto electrics? :P TFS-123 is the one i'm going with. Pending price, i may get two as i have the slots for them. That way i'll have a backup ready to go if I have the same drama in peak hour traffic in future. One thing that worries me, is that on the wiring its got 105C which i guess is what the wiring is rated to. Kinda cutting fine i would have thought as the water temps get close to that, not to mention all the radiating heat from the exhaust and block.

I got on the Tridon website to find a more suitable part number. The recommended part is TFS-115 97C on - 92C off.....which i think is a little too high. I thought the TFS-119 90C-85C was a better option and was 2 pin in the catalogue. I went instore and both parts were single pin, so i couldnt loop the circuit back to the relay. Anyone here have the same setup? I asked on Ausrotary but the thread has gone unanswered. I really don't want the fan running full time. Its a safe option, but in winter i really don't want the fan running when it doesnt need to be.

Tah, will redo that when i get a new switch.

The +Batt feed for the Relay has a fuse within the first 100mm of the battery. I think thats a standard 15amp glass fuse. From there I have it wired the usual relay method. 4 Pin Relay (Earth, +Batt, Ign, Power Out) Power out of the Relay goes into the switch and loops through into the + side of the fan. When the switch completes the circuit at the right temp, the fan gets power. So I have a 15amp fuse near the battery and a 30 amp fuse in the relay. The connections on the switch were spade terminals for ease of removal when i swap engines. They were firm and taped in place with electrical tape. Atleast I have the option of upgrading the heat rating for the switch as i thought it was a bit low at 85C on 80C off. The thermostat opens at 83C.

Well theres your problem :P See it kinda was an airflow problem......a lack of fan.... It must have had an intermittant connection because the fan was running when I checked it the day before last. Now to get in touch with PWR to see if the warranty covers the switch. Not bloody happy about <5hr old part failing. Any clues what would casue such an issue? Power Surge? That power feed comes from the relay which runs a 30amp fuse, so maybe the fuse is too high and the wiring failed first.

I made sure the radiator was the highest part of the cooling system. I'll give it a go, because it can't hurt. I'm thinking its just an airflow thing. If the car is not moving, theres no airflow to disperse the hot air in the bay. It just tends to radiate through everything. At speed it cools fine. The SPAL fan pulls more air than my twin 10" fans ever did, so i'm tipping thats not the issue.

Never bled the system - Never done it to any of my cars. I've run the car with the rad cap off and squeezed the hoses to force air out. I've heard good and bad about heat wrap. Like early failure/cracking of the exhaust. I guess its something to look into as something has to be done. I'm not big on the spacing up the bonnet idea for air flow. It looks lame and dodgy. Maybe i'll bypass the heater again and see if that cures anything.

I used to run some caster oil towards the end when i had the 5K. Not for any benefit, other than i had some laying around from my nitro rc car days. Used to smell shit hot, and turn a few heads when they caught a wiff. I pulled up behind a harley today at a red light. He turned around to see what was making all the noise :P I also put 200ml of oil into the tank this morning. No real visible smoke from what i've seen, so i guess i'll stick with that. I also dropped into Sandown to watch some cars from the fence. Jeebus has the security got out of control. The usual spots had all been fenced off and security was everywhere stopping people from standing at the fences and watching rather than paying. Pfft, i understand them wanting to make a buck.....but there are people that just want to see certain races or a few laps here and there in between their daily lives. The security asked if he could search my car for grog or a bbq when I went to park my car. WTF? idiot, i'm just parking and watching the support races from the fence. As if i want to drive in and sit there all day and watch suped up taxis. EDIT* Had a belly full when i last typed that, so i forgot to write what i intended to. 21deg day today, and whilst in traffic and back streets the water temps rose up to 100C. If i got up to speed and chucked it in neutral and rolled, the temps would drop back down to 90deg and under if i rolled long enough. So its only when stationery and when i give it the berries, that it was getting hot. Kinda weird considering its never done it before, even when i gave it hell. Its a new engine, new rad, new thermostat, new SPAL 16" fan and water pump was fine as the engine builder inspected and gave it the ok. I have noticed that the hot exhaust etc in the engine bay radiates through everything. Its like the bay heats up, but the hot air has no where to escape. As a result the oil temps soar to 5-10deg over water temps when stationary. I've considered sourcing a small fan for the oil cooler aswell, that will kick in when the thermo fan turns on. Thoughts?

The Rotorolla is single handedly cancelling out any pollution savings/advancements you are making :P I'm tipping the track is around Maryborough or Ballarat? Bit too far for myself and the Rolla to warrant a trip if thats the case.

Thanks for clarifying that up. Sounds like we use the same oil. Time to go top up the oil I think. Do you remember some bloke chatting to you in the bottle shop drive through in G'Town about 18 months ago? That was me anyway. I was there for Dans wedding. I think i meantioned my car as we were chatting about your beast. You have the best sounding/angriest rotor ever buddy. If its not already nominated, i'm adding you to the list for Car of the Year.

Yup, It did the same to the rubber diaphram in the Reg aswell. Thats just something for others to be aware of.

A few months ago I would have said Holley Red. But mine recently has lost its full pressure and now maxes out at 4.5psi even when the Reg is bypassed. So i'm not going to recommend that. I've used Carter Green like Si for many years without fault. The reason i did away with it in the end, is becasue it started leaking a few months after running E85 fuel.

Thats the way i worked it out intially, but after doing the maths again and using an online calculator I realised my figures were wrong. 1L = 1000ml 200:1 Ratio 1000 div 200 = 5mls of oil per litre of fuel So 45ltrs X 5 = 225mls per 45ltrs of petrol So 100:1 = 450mls per 45ltrs of fuel. Thats waay too much in my opinion. No way would an OMP inject 0.5lt of fuel over a tank of fuel. My engine was smoking from what I assume was all the oil sitting in the bottom of the tank. I used to put in 40mls at a time. I can't imagine chucking in a few hundred on each fillup and not having it smoke. As for the brakes....they have worked perfectly in the past. So good they felt like they would put me through the windscreen. Both times they have given me grief was after the car had sat for an extended period and the rear calipers (handbrake mechanism) had rusted up and locked. Last time they were locked on that much, the inside wheel would lock up when cornering when it unweighted. Having said that, I have to do something so i'll look into the bias controller. No good will ever come of it if I have the ability to lock off the rear brakes though :P

Thanks. Seems like alot of oil compared to how much would be injected from the sump by the OMP over a tank full. Now I understand why blokes are bitching about the price of oil and how much they go through :P Took the car for a spin after i made my last post. The brakes are still not right. There is not enough bite. I noticed that the rear wheels were waaay hotter than the fronts. Makes me wonder if the rears are glazed or if the pistons are seized up again. I'm bloody over these skyline brakes. It seems all I do is rebuild them every few months because they have rusted up and seized.

I bled the brakes last night and went for a 15min drive to bed the brakes in again (remove the rust more so). They felt better, but not 100%. I then unbloted the brake pedal and wound out the fitting on the threaded rod to make the pedal sit higher and give it more throw before it bottoms out before the push rod does. Just sitting at idle the pedal seemed to feel alot better. Like it had more travel and wasnt bottoming out. I'm yet to drive it again...but i want to half the difference and lower it a bit from where it is. As heel and toeing is dangerous because my foot tends to slip off the pedal reaching for the accelerator :( As for premix, I've been running a Stihl 2 Stroke oil. Its fairly cheap (well my first bottle was as we do alot of work for them). I have been recommended Motul 800 by my engine builder, but it seems a bit pricey considering many others use other brands and don't have an issue. I also just realised i have been under oiling my engines. I normally chuck in 40-50mls on every fill up including half tank fillups. For some reason i did the maths wrong and the online calculator is telling me it should be 225mls for a 45ltr fill up. Agree? Seems like alot of oil. My previous engines have all still had the OMP connected, but the linkage was removed so it was effectively getting idle mixes through the rev range. So the premix would have helped to compensate for that.

Standard Rotaries run an Oil Metering Pump (OMP) that you'll find on the front of the block with a linkage to the standard carby. There is oil lines from the OMP to the intake manifold, and more oil is injected into the combustion process as the accelerator/linkage is moved. So it just injects dirty sump oil into the combustion process to lubricate the seals. Sometimes they fail.....some people don't like the idea of injecting dirty oil......some people hate topping up the oil every now and then...etc The main reason is that alot of people swap to webers, and they require some thought and modification to setup the linkage. So the alternative is to remove the OMP, and run a 100:1 mix of 2 stroke when you fill up for track days or 200:1 for the street. I normally just throw in a cap or so of oil. Your gauranteed of good lubrication, and no premature failure due to an OMP not working and the seals not getting the required lubrication. So I guess thats where some of the Myths come from that Rotaries burn oil and need to be topped up every week. Yes they use oil, but it serves a purpose and its normal.

I have had one in my car for over 12months with no issues. The exedy equivilent of my package was quoted at over $1000. Xtreme was half that. I may have to upgrade the clutch at a later date as the hp from BridgePort is borderline with the specs of the clutch. But thats a whole other issue and not related to 'Xtreme'