kangaroosa

Check you haven't broken an inner valve spring. My throttle jammed at what once in my 5K, I switched it off and saw the tacho falling from 11,000rpm. The result was 2 broken inner valve springs, and a big drop in power with a misfire. Hopefully its as simple as that for you. It doesnt explain the backfire through the carby as the single spring is enough to keep the valve seated. Everytime i've had a backfire through the carby, it was timing related. I would be resetting the timing from scratch.

I've got 5 nitro cars. 4 on road, and 1 semi-off roader. All are GV and rarely get used these days unless i'm really bored. My pride and joy has 3 times the hp of standard and 3 broken gearboxes as proof :fuzz: I've also got a plane hanging from my ceiling, which has only taxied around my back yard. I have to get new battery packs, and join a club etc.....too hard basket.

It would be a shame to see this project sold off Mick. I was looking forward to cruising the GOR with you one day....Rotorolla style. Your going to do whats in your heart in the end, but i'm just suggesting that you don't rush into a decision. My car has spent 3 years off the road, and 1 year on. There were days when i was so close to walking away, but dude I am so glad I stuck with it. What sort of cash will it pull as is...few hundred maybe...hardly worth it. Chuck it in the backyard under a tarp and save up to get the engine and gearbox fitted. The inspiration will flow after that hurdle has been jumped.

Matt, I don't have an engine as yet. So I will be a definate no show for the main run.

Nah, I'll drive to your place and pickup the 7K monster and you can drive your other weapon. :yes:

Maybe. I gave him the engine to start working on, under the assumption that it was going to happen over a few months. He said he was flat out, but he would slot it in somewhere. So that was fine by me as i was in no rush for it. As it turns out, the engine was built within the first 2 weeks......but it was my choice to leave it there and have the IDA tuned to suit that motor. He was also going to do the initial run in of the engine. I'm still in no rush for it to be honest. I have been working 6 days a week and have just finished laying carpet for 13hrs today as a second job......so working on cars is one of the last things i wish to do right about now. It will happen when its meant to happen. I also havent paid a cent for it yet.

As off two weeks ago, it was as it was in the pics. The right internals for the IDA had turned up, but still hadnt been fitted. I got bumped out of the Dyno Queue for a few race motors that had to be done for race meetings. The Pre Jamboree rush has hit him, and is flat out. So I guess i can realistically expect a call in late August or early September. Although the car is engineless in the shed, I'm not too worried. He was good enough to slot me in at such short notice. Its just a shame it didnt get on the dyno before the big rush. Afterall, regular clients with racecars will always get preference over a single engine build.......which is quite understandable.

Challenge Accepted. "Authorised by Barney Stinson"

SOLD

I had a BP built. It should be on the engine dyno this week......No motor as yet so i'm still in the Maybe list. P.S. The Stock motor is still fine.

I'm in...pending something filling that void this week :(

I'll be there with the Bridge Port. I think you can safely print off my "Guzzler Award" now Jarrod :P

The pedal is very firm with minimal travel (from first stepping on it, to the point where its depressed as far as it will go......whilst not bottoming out). I have brakes from the very first mm of travel. They are a bit firmer than I normally like, but they bite like nothing i have ever owned so its something i've learned to live with.

You obviously don't know how impatient I am. :wink: I thought about that, but it was about 10deg in my shed and I would have been there forever heating and painting. I thought about grabbing a jet heater from work, but i really coulnt be bothered. I just wanted it one colour... Its all hardened now and looks pretty schmik.

This was last weekends little effort. It was my first time spraying 2-pack, and was way to cold to be spraying, full stop. It was either that weekend or not at all, so I bit the bullet and did it. As expected the paint wasn't tacking off fast enough and I grew impatient, so I kept layering it on. Some areas eventually fried and theres a few runs, which arent even visible unless your really looking. Once the engine is back in and all the other related stuff, the runs will be hidden. All in all, i'm pretty happy with how it turned out considering. Its got some nice shine and its one colour, and it kinda matches the rest of the car. Before After

Info from a US Monroe Catalogue Part Number - 72869 Tube Body Type - SPEC Tube Body Length - 13.500" Compressed Length - 14.625" Extended Length - 21.750" Travel - 7.125"

I can't be bothered arguing anymore. So i'll just say that I hate soccer with a passion, and maybe my ignorance comes from a total and utter lack of interest in the sport. So therefor I wont be posting in this thread or any others on the forum except for my build thread and the VIC section. Good day.

The housings have been machined down to 12A width. The 13B has been machined off and a 12A CNC milled into that spot. The engine number is stamped into the front plate. That has been machined off and my engine number that is engineered to my car has been stamped in. I couldnt be bothered looking through the list of PM's to get the right facts. I guess i'm showing my ignorance again on the Albury v's Wodonga issue aswell.

I supplied the Complete Struts straight out of a Corona, the KE30 Strut Tops and some new KYB SV21 Shocks so they could cut down the strut to suit. I only supplied those parts and not the car. The work was done in 2 days from when i dropped the parts off. The average joe would not get that price though. I only got it at that price because one of the Frankston blokes had it done, so I did a bit of name dropping and the bloke finally caved in. I'm still using the Pedders supplied springs as they are a nice ride. They are well and truely captive, as i had to use spring compressors to get it all bolted up. They are height adjustable, and have about 25mm of adjustment to make it lower and about 50mm upwards adjustment from where it sits now. I have had 7 or 8KG Lovells springs in it which were only just captive at the lowest setting. It was way too firm for the road, and it also wasnt a legal height.

Firstly STFU Secondly, Its a public forum where a question was posed and replies were welcomed. In no way did I say that the horns were stricly soccer related. I simply said "The Horns...Wtf"? I suggest you go get some fresh air and calm down buddy. I had an extended break from visiting RC because of self opiniated morons like yourself. I think one of those breaks is due again if i keep logging in to read utter rubbish from people like yourself. P.S. How are the Aussies going?:jamie:

My stock one isnt that bad on juice. Around town I get 270km from 40ish Litres. On the Freeway just cruising, I can get at least 400km from a 40L tank. Its bad compared to some piston motors, but I don't have an issue with it. You don't own a Rotary if you care about these things.

The engineer knocked me back on the 13B, so a 12A was the next best option. Having said that, i was contacted by a bloke in Albury I think. His engineer has said a 13B will be fine.....maybe because its in a KE3* wagon. Yeah I had troubles getting an EP through emissions testing. So I used a stock one to save dramas in that respect. Coilovers set me back $500 at Pedders to have the struts cut down and spring perch removed, coilover kit supplied and welded on, springs supplied and top hat modified. That was trade price though. The original quote was $1100. I had to buy shocks and the Corona struts in the first place, so it would have been an extra $200 or so. The FAQ explains the Corona strut and Landcruiser Brake upgrade.

I think you can use the crown wheel and pinion from a pintara which has a 4.11 ratio. Pretty sure thats where mine came from. Given that you don't have a lack of torque, the 3.89 or 3.7 might be the better choice anyway. Make sure you get the R31 Callipers rebuilt regardless. I had mine seize on last week from corrosion in the handbrake mechanism. Nice choice on the clutch brand too. Is it a HD organic? I have an Xtreme billet flywheel and HD Organic clutch in the Rolla. Good bit of gear. Will wait and see how it holds up behind a Bridgey.

One word, Awesome. Rohan is a top bloke and has explained everything in detail before he has done any of the work. He has some pretty impressive machinery in his workshop. He named a fair price at the beggining as a worst case scenario, and he has stuck to that price. Pretty amazing these days with the big name Rotary shops out there that always have people whinging that they got bled dry. He kept all the damaged parts to show me why he had to replace them. I even got to keep my old end plates....unfortunately i really wanted the housings to make a clock out of, but they found their way into the metal bin. The latest as of today, is he will rebuild my IDA with the right jets, venturis and emulsion tubes etc to suit. So they will be ordered Monday and it should be on the engine dyno to perfect it mid week. I dropped in today to drop off my ignitors and IDA. Heres some pics of the block. Its almost a shame to put it in an engine bay and get it dirty:P

Yes they are Australias only chance of winning a World Cup......If you believe that will ever happen, you need a reality check. I don't follow soccer, but whenever I hear Australia and Soccer mentioned in the news, its always about them bailing out of something. How many countries actually missed out on making it into the World Cup? How involved in Soccer are they normally in a regular basis? Soccer as a whole shits me. The players are big girls blouses. They should be well payed actors, not sportsmen. The horns......wtf is up with the horns?