kangaroosa

Whilst wiring up the Stewart Warner gauges I discovered that for some strange reason i had the speco gauge wired into the plug for the back of the standard gauge cluster....which then goes into the engine bay for the stock sender. I have done away with that, and run a new wire like the rest of the gauges have already. That could be part of the reason for a dud reading. I've heard good and bad about ASI on Ausrotary. Alot of people swear by them, and theres alot that have had cores crack etc. I would rather pay the extra $$ and deal with someone in Aus over the phone. I can get all the pipes welded in the right spots and rotation with spal fan mounts for the same price as a regular RX7 PWR item. It should then be a simple bolt in situation and its rated as a quality product, so either way I can't go wrong. I havent ordered one yet - I'm waiting to see how the RX7 Rad goes with the front of the car being opened up first. The 3 row Corolla radiator is as good as sold. The bloke is supposed to be picking it up wednesday night.

Felix - I've got a 48IDA in the shed that I will be using when I get my spare motor Bridge Ported. Its just a proven quantity these days and I know the old owner of Rank Rotary who is a whiz at tuning these motors. My car went in for a proper tune after engineering and emmissions testing. The car went in with 70rwkW and came out with 102.7rwkW Taz - Yeah it feels like an eternity. I was pretty much settled on a S5 box and picked one up soon after i got your input on it. The car has spent most of its life in the last few years parked under a car cover. Buts its all come together within the last 10 months or so. Once i got the engine and gearbox mounted, the motivation came back and I got stuck into it. I've had issues with incorrect reading gauges so i've replaced them, and took to the radiator support panel this arvo to allow better airflow to the radiator as the temps are fine at idle, but they spiked a bit when at speed. About 80mm of the radiator was covered which probably wasnt helping the cause. I spoke to PWR today about getting a radiator. I just have to sketch up how i want the outlets on the RX7 Radiator, but unfortunately production has stopped for the year and wont be starting until Jan 5th. So if the S1 rad doesnt cope over summer, I'll be treating myself to a PWR unit with a 16" SPAL fan. I picked a VL radiator on the weekend with the plan to install it in place of the RX7 rad. Got it home and pressure tested it. 1st one had a leaky end tank. So i took it back and exchanged it. This one had a leaky core....it looked brand new. The rest of the rads were either munted or had thinner cores. So I tore that money up. Went to another wrecker and got another brand new looking radiator. It leaked as well.....not happy. So that one ended up being thrown at the fence to make sure it was really finished. :y: No i'm not seeing anyone for my anger issues. I gave up on the dirty old holden pieces of shite. S1 RX7 Radiator is going back to the shop tommorrow to get the outlet welded back in and for them to take a tank off and rod out the tubes so I know that its in the best shape it can be for Summer. I've also picked up some Redline water wetter. Alot of rally and circuit rotary drivers swear by it. Apparently it doesnt contain glycol, so the race cars use it due to it not leaving an oily residue. Its supposed to crap all over regular coolant so I'm giving it a go. Slightly larger opening. I just cut and relocated the mounting. Welded in place. Don't zoom too close on the welds please. Stewart Warner performance electric gauges.

Check out my thread (KE30 Rotorolla - Tech Build) in a day or two for pics of mounting of the engine. I'm actually working on fitting a VL Radiator into mine now (taking a break) so I'll uploads pics later in the week when its all sorted. S1 RX7 Radiators fit in nicely with custom brackets. However you may need to cut out a section of the radiator support panel to get full air flow over the radiator as its wider than a KE unit.

Long story short - A woman appeared at the top of driveway one day and said she has seen me getting around but never found out where I lived. Her husband and daughter spent a heap on a KE30 4 Door, only to have her roll it into a ditch and total it. They had it listed for 6 months with no buyers so they gave up and just wanted it gone. So it cost me a slab of VB for the old man and $50 for the girl, and I trailered the car home. It had the upholstered seats and the sports steering wheel. Best of all, the seats are the proper 2 doors ones with the lever that flips them forward. Being a 4 door, the door trims were no good to me. So I traced down what fabric it was and made my own. I used alot of the car for spare parts as most of the interior trims were immaculate. Brand new tyres was nice at that stage as i was still at TAFE. The car came to rest on its roof, but fortunately one front gaurd and the boot were immaculate as the car had just been resprayed. The rest of it was caved in. She was a lucky girl. You could get an upholsterer to upholster whichever seats you like. Why not save up and do them all so it looks the goods.

I saw that award topic a while back and intentially didnt post until after voting had closed. Not because I thought I would win, but i hate competitions. Trans coolers generally have the wrong fittings on them from what I have noticed. They are a small tube fitting where most engine oil coolers have a threaded ball and cup seal arrangement. don't know much about whether they would flow the same as oil coolers or if the galleries are of a different size. Rotaries tend to run high oil pressure as well. On a cold idle mine has 85-90psi. Once warm it was 45psi. I assume thats alot more than a trans cooler can cope with. KEhendo - I didnt really plan to go to the dinner...then again i hadnt really read the thread properly so i didnt know what was happening. Felix - I have never seen a set of those carbs on a Rotary. I Wonder if the manifolds are even still available, or possibly they might even be a standard IDA manifold. I wonder how they compare to a properly tuned IDA. seabiscuit - I tried selling the plate for retail price and didnt have any interest. Seemed like a good plate at the time, but on the car it just seemed a bit wanky. People that stop for a chat seem to love it though. So maybe i'm just being too critical. dfunkt - I was relieved when i got it through the emmissions testing (as part of engineering) second time around as that was the one major hurdle that was giving me grief. It breezed through everything else. The rectify list was only five items long: - Emmissions <500ppm HC. It was over 1000ppmHC (Change back to standard Nikki Carb - Tune it for E85 Fuel - Fit Air Pump) - Reduce front track by 13mm (Get 3mm machined off the mounting face of some TRX rims and bolt them on) - Replace all seatbelts (Expensive but easy) - Mutifit wheels are illegal - (Replace with TRX rims as above) - Rear Leaves too low - (Get some stock leaves reset with an extra leaf, but not as low in ride height) Pretty easy stuff really. Thanks to everyone one else for their kind words.

I actually saw them ebay with no bids, so I offered the bloke cash because i wanted them bad. He jumped at the offer (this was a few years ago). They came off his Datto 1600 many years back. You can get them new in 4x114.3 15x7" for ~$230/rim. Look on the site for distributors. If your from Melb, I got the above price from MG Workshops in Mulgrave. I was told by the owner that if i took the rolla in he could measure it up for the right offset. So I assume they make them to suit. Matt - TE278U (Dave?) spotted me the other weekend and stopped for a chat. I really only get it out on weekends, but havent driven too far as i'm still sorting out the bugs. I just added a couple of interior pics too.

The first time I drove it I got out with shakey hands. But that wasnt hard considering my daily is an N14 Pulsar with 415,000km on the clock. The other week I went on the back of my boss's Hayabusa that he got up to 240km/h in just seconds. The rolla feels quite sedate after that ride.

I've been working up the motivation to do this for a while now as its been on the road for 6 months or so. The car is street registered and engineered for all the mods. I've had this car for 8 years with numerous K motors in it before the urge to have a Rotary got the best of me 3 years ago. I got engineers approval and then ripped out the Hot 5K and twin carbs and sold them before I changed my mind about the conversion. I hit walls where workshops would quote $7K - $10K to do mounting of the motor and gearbox..... Then winter rolled on and I really couldnt be bothered with the car. I had brief patches of motivation during that time where I tackled the bodywork and set about cutting out all the rust and welding in new sections. I had an R31 diff shortened, rebuilt and fitted. I eventually found a workshop that charged $3K to mount the Motor, Gearbox, Custom Tailshaft, Custom Extractors and a few other small fabrication jobs that I preferred a qualified welder to tackle. I then set about prepping it for paint. Many weekends were spent rubbing it back and smoothing over the repaired sections. I painted the car in Acrylic Lemon Yellow Tinter. The engine, gauges and dash were all then wired up and the interior fitted along with the cage. New rubbers, felts and tinted windows were then thrown at it. Its a bundle of fun to drive on weekends and the occasional workday, and I never get sick of the noise. Engine and Driveline: - S1 RX7 12A Rotary - Std 103rwkW - 48DCOE Weber - S5 RX7 Gearbox - Xtreme Clutches Chrome Moly Flywheel - Xtreme Clutches Heavy Duty Clutch - Custom Tailshaft - Stretched Trans Tunnel - 2" Extractors Into 2.5" system with a Rotaflo Muffler (will be going to a twin system to the diff when I BP the motor) - Pedal Box modified to Hyrdaulic - R31 Skyline LSD Shortened Diff - Tailshaft Loop - VL Commodore Radiator - PWR Oil Cooler - Holley Red Fuel Pump - Holley Fuel Pressure Regulator Brakes and Suspension: Front - Front Pedders Coilover sleeve kit - Pedders 7kg Springs - Shortened XT130 Corona Struts - SV21 Camry KYB Excel G Shocks - Peugeot 505 Rotors - Landcruiser 4 Pot Calipers with RX7 Green Stuff Pads - VN V8 1" Master Cylinder - ###### TE37 Strut Brace Rear - R31 Skyline Disc Brakes and Calipers - Reset Leaves with an extra leaf or two Wheels and Tyres: - Performance Alloy Wheels - Challengers - Front 15" X 7" 11P - Rear 15" X 7" 25P - Yokohama AVS ES100 195/50 R15 Interior: - Retrimmed Interior using XR8 Fabric - Autometer and (soon to be Stewart Warner) gauges - Bolt in 4 Point Alloy Cage - Immobilisor - Pioneer Head Unit - Phillips 6" Splits and Phillips 6x9's - I bought this gear for the car back in 1998. It was the bee's knees and its still going strong to this day - Kicker Amp Exterior: - Lemon Yellow Acrylic Tinter - Tinted Windows - New Rubbers throughout Future Plans: - VL Radiator will be fitted this weekend - Shim up the gearbox to reduce the slip yoke angle - BP my S3 Engine and fit my 48IDA Weber to it - Replace exhaust with 2" Pipes off the extractors into twin Rotoflo resonators into a 2.5" coupling, and over the diff into a Rotaflow Muffler - Stewart Warner Gauges have been ordered and will be replacing the Speco crap. Speco elec water temp gauge reads 10deg too high. Rust Repairs In Primer Just Painted Pedal Box All Polished Up Stretched Tunnel to accomodate Gearbox As it is today except for the new regulator and gauge. Also replaced those radiator hoses with normal ones. The finished product Door Trims - 3mm MDF - I Sewed the fabrics together and contacted them to the MDF with a layer of Automotive foam to give it some cushion and depth. Re-upholstered Seats. Most importantly a Fire Extinguisher in plain sight and arms length.

I've been loosing brake fluid in my daily. Started off as a resevoir every month and then got as bad as a resevoir every week. Turned out to be a metal line leaking from where it bolts into the diverter block on the firewall. Replaced the line and bled the brakes. Best brakes i've had in a long time now :) Do yourself a favour and buy one of those 'Self Bleed Brake Kits'. I have persisted with doing it the old fashioned way for years. I used one on the weekend and it was so easy.

I've never owned an auto either. So does any gearbox oil drain out of auto's if you remove the tailshaft? The reason i ask is that you may have pulled out the shaft when you pulled out the diff......and lost some oil that way. Just a thought as i know bugger all about Auto's.

Mine went through engineering with cut down bumpstops. I did do it nicely though and reshaped them so they looked like a factory item. As mentioned above, i got knocked back for being too low in the rear rather than the bumpstops......

My system had 2" extractor pipes into a single 2.5" pipe with 1 hotdog, 1 resonator and 1 turbo muffler. It just scraped through the noise test. I have since replaced the rear muffler with a Rotaflow muffler which improved flow but left the noise roughly the same. If your going to put new mufflers on, I can recommend Rotaflow. Having said that, the best exhaust setup is generally 2" extractor pipes, into twin 2" pipes through twin resonators and coupled into a single 2.5" pipe over the diff into a rear muffler. What gearbox are you using again? I recall it was a S5T? I'm keen to see where the shifter is located if you havent shortened the extension housing. I shortened mine, which in hindsight was probably not really needed.

I wouldnt recommend them. Its was kind of a stop gap solution to get mine engineered, as i wasnt happy with it taking ~5secs to get pressure up. They are not the most efficient at cooling the oil as they are directly related to the hot water passing through it. Which in my case with the car running hot, means the oil runs even hotter. As for emmissons testing. I ran the standard Nikki carb, in conjunction with an air pump. I had to get a 20mm diam metal tube welded into my exhaust which allowed the air pump to inject fresh air into the exhaust. I also used E85 Fuel (same as the V8 Supercars). Its claimed to burn cleaner and put out less HC ppm. To run E85, you will have to take the jets out of the side of the fuel bowls and drill them out to 1mm, as you need 1/3 more fuel for the car to run properly. With the weber bolted on, my first emmission test was >1000HC ppm. With the above mentioned setup, it pulled 250HC ppm. The limit was 500ppm so i breezed it in.

I'm running a 3 row S1 RX7 Radiator which cools fine at idle, but can jump 10-15deg whilst cruising on the freeway. I'm currently using a S3 RX7 oil cooler that bolts to the block, and has water lines plumbed into it. I do have a PWR oil cooler up front but i found it took a few seconds to get oil pressure up. Might have something to do with the time it takes to pressurise up the oil lines and cooler before it feeds the engine. Mine set me back about $300. Look on ausrotary, they pop up all the time. I couldnt really find a neat place to fit a standard S1-2 oil cooler. It was just physically too long/wide to fit up front without chopping the car up. An auto transmission cooler is not an option. S3 RX7 Cooler My PWR Oil Cooler

I just picked up a new holley red fuel pump and red fuel pressure regulator off ebay for $270. don't know if that is cheap, but i'm too lazy to shop around. The Gilmer and weber/manifold pop up on Ausrotary all the time. I got all my Autometer Gauges off ebay from USA which was a fraction of the cost compared to what major parts outlets here charge. What radiator are you using? I'm having overheating issues which i'm trying to diagnose, and am holding off on buying a PWR Radiator if i don't have to.

I had a black engine bay on my first rolla. Biggest mistake ever. Everything blends into each other and oil leaks are a prick to find. Besides that, it just looks so cheap and lazy.

Are you running the standard fan? Is it still shrouded? If your running a thermo fan, is that shrouded? Does it overheat just at idle, or does it overheat whilst driving aswell?

Gravity fed is preferred. You realise the health effects from using 2 Pack paints? Are you spraying in a shed at home and do your neighbours know?

Have a search on here for words like "concept" "acrylic" made by myself. I did a small write up years ago. I sprayed the roof of my daily last weekend as it was all faded. This is the finish you can achieve with acrylic paint straight out of the gun. Its yet to be blocked back then cut and polished.

The diff gets located on the leaf spring by a pin/locator. Thats what he's talking about. So the spacing of the leaf springs are the same.

Why not just use an R31 Skyline diff. Can get LSD centres and your PCD will remain the same. The RX diff thread sounds familiar. I remember them being not worth the hassle as they arent the strongest/best option for the amount of rooting around.

I might make this trip considering I finally have a rolla back on the road. I may have to make a few fuel stops on the way though.

I actually had a gut feeling they were 83mm pistons, but i couldnt find the specs sheet to back it up. The engine was just under 1600cc if someone wishes to do the maths.

I had pistons from a Gemini in mine. The top of the piston had to be machined off and slight valve reliefs cut in. About 81mm Diam pistons from memory. But you could go bigger as mine was a safe rebuild. I broke a few dual valve springs before anything else had a chance to break.

Clean the paint off and solder it.