kangaroosa

If you spent all that time building the car without getting the initial engineers approval, then yes it may all be a waste. If the engineer approves it, then go ahead and build it. I keep a laminated copy of the engineers certificate in my car at all times. Not that it will mean much, since all the cars details have been changed on the vicroads database. Including the engine number. So if you ever get pulled over, the engine numbers will match regardless. You will have the engineers report to show first hand that its all legit. I'd be more concerned about being done for being too low or loud....rather than the obvious engine conversion. I can't stress it enough. Book an appointment now. It may cost you $50 and 30mins of your life, but discussing it on here is getting you nowhere.

Yep its a typo. The 1308 for a 13b should be doubled. So it should be 2616cc for the 13B and 2292 for the 12A.

Its twice the swept volume of all rotors.

The 15% relates to the "maximum capacity engine for that car". In other words 15% on top of a 4K. 1300cc + 15% (195cc) = 1495cc So i guess a 5K would just scrape in. The 12A needs mounts welded to the chassis rails, and its not an option motor for that model of car. So that rule above does not apply. Structural welding will be required. Its not a Toyota motor, nor is it a bolt in conversion. There is no way around these issues, thus you will have to go see an engineer. You will have to pass db testing, as well as emmissions testing. I can tell you first hand that you will need a stock standard 12A, with a std Nikki carb, and an air pump. I even resorted to tuning my car to run on E85 fuel to get the HC count down. Some super restictive mufflers will be needed to quieten it down too. *EDIT* I can understand you trying to find a loophole in the laws. Trust me, there isnt one. I spent hours reading over the VICROADS website trying to find an easy way through........There isnt one. My engineer drew up diagrams of how he wanted it fabricated and all the small details that were important like direction of welds on chassis rails etc. I did it all to within his specs and i still got knocked back on the first inpsection. Your front and rear track will be measured ( i got knocked back on 17mm). Brake tests...emmissions...db tests....brand new seatbelts.....the list goes on. I can gaurantee you that they will go over your car with a fine toothed comb. So be prepared to spend money, and jump through any hoops that are put infront of you.

As far as i'm aware, VIC has the same regulations as NSW now. My engineer told me (about 4 months ago) that the whole of Aus will eventually be standardised so the regulatons are identical across all states. (I think he was only referring the the capacity to weight regulations only though). I agree whole heartedly the Sleepy's first move if he's serious is to make an appointment with a recognised engineer though.

My KE30 2 Door sedan's rego label lists it as TARE 900kg My engineers certificate lists the engines capacity as 1964 but the measurement printed in that box (which is a generic measurement for the form) is 'ml'. So 1964ml. I don't know if thats meant to be cc or whether they were too lazy to change the std measurement printed on the form. Or even if ml is the same as cc.....something for you to research i guess. Its also listed as a 1974 RX3 12A motor, which in actual fact its a 1980 S1 RX7 12A motor. So if your in VIC, go make an appointment with Enkelman & Associates. They are a VASS and did the engineering on mine.

Most of the reputable tinting places have a lifetime gaurantee. I'm not going to name names, but the ones that advertise on tv and radio etc are the ones to go to. All do darkest legal and gaurantee it for life. If you want darker than legal, then none of them will gaurantee it.

Whats the weight of a KE10? Multiply that weight by '3' for a NA engine and thats the max cc's for a replacement engine. Multiply the cars weight by 2.5 for an Inducted motor. A rotary's cc is classed as twice the swept volume of all rotors. So a 12A is 2292cc and a 13b is 2616cc. If its over 2292 then a 12a is possible. I recall the cc of my 12a being recorded as a bit lower on the engineers certificate, so i don't know what figures or info he used. I got knocked back on a 13b in a KE30 in VIC, but a NA 12A passed. I wouldnt even bother with a 10a to be honest. I have seen bugger all blocks and parts for sale lately. Even the production of 12a rotors and housings have ceased. If you need new rotors and housings, you have to buy machined down items from 13b's. Pricey$$$

My Stock 12A (S1RX7 Motor) makes 102.7rwkw with a DCOE48. The exhaust is too restrictive, which is robbing it of more power. Its great fun to drive. I actually have a S5 Turbo gearbox in mine, which i've read is not really the ideal ratios for a NA setup. However, I know it will be near indestructible.

Saw a Mustard/Orange KE30/55 on Lakeside Drv Albert Park on Saturday. Front right was up on a jack and missing a wheel. Rear window was smashed and had a huge dint in the roof like some tool had jumped on it.

Then when you take off from the lights and then engine doesnt make power until 4000rpm. Then after that it goes half as good as a BP or PP, so no one will be fooled when a standard car leaves you in its wake.

The power to weight ratio does come into in the equation in some circumstances i believe. However, the main factor is weight v's capacity of the replacement engine. Make an appointment with the engineer, and get everything in writing. He will file it and bring it out when it comes time for your inspection. The time from my consultation to inspection was approx 2 years. It was handy knowing that i had guidlines to work to, and there wouldnt be any issues if i played by his rules. The following link is a copy of what my engineer gave me as proof of the guidlines he works to for approving replacement engines. CLICK

Whats the name of the engineer and the business he/she trades under?

Spotted a low 2 Door KE30 in Highett Saturday morning. Orange with mesh style wheels i think. I first noticed it because it had an aftermarket front stone tray. I drive past there every weekend, but its the first time i've seen it parked there.

Would want to be a pretty legitimate legal document......considering the legals cost of drafting it up, and the stresss of wondering if the bloke will pay up anyway. I know i wouldnt bother with it over a $1600 Corolla. Would make more sense to go through insurance. You get your money there and then, less salvage costs. It wont cost you a cent as the other bloke is at fault, and your premium wont change as your not at fault. (This is assuming he has insurance - i only skim read this thread). I wouldnt be copping a payment plan and not going through insurance from some tool that just inconvenienced me and caused my car to be written off. Then again, I trust very few people these days.....but i hope it works out for you. When a 4wd wrote off my first KE30 off, it was valued at $1600. Less $300 Salvage Fee. Less Towing costs to get my car home. I ended up with a $1000 cheque in the mail within 2 weeks from the accident.

I thnk the 13B's have the mounts in the middle of the engine, but can be converted to have the mounting on the front plate. Was the starlet a 13b or 12a?

The only way I have seen it done on all 4 setups I have seen including my own.

Thats a cheap price btw. I waited around for months on end with no progress as i couldnt find a workshop to do the work for a reasonable price. I had quotes of up to $10,000 to do the same work as what i paid $3000 for. If the $15,000 scared you off, it wont have to cost that much if you are on a budget. I went all out on new suspension, brakes, diff, paint, interior, gauges etc. Infact the $15,000 figure is very light. I would hate to add up all the money that i have thrown at the car.

Thats outside Peter Robinsons. Is he the owner?

Whilst doing an engine conversion i stumbled across these. VULCOFLEX They come in varying lengths and Internal Diameters. Generally about $15 each and can be bent into any shape that the original hose was shaped to. I got mine from an industrial hose and pipe shop (they are a GATES brand), however i know for a fact that you can order them from most auto parts shops aswell.

Last time I had a screen put in, the bloke told me that they are no longer made for Corollas. However, Torana ones (or some similar holden) will fit the moulding. I guess when you work out which make of car will suit, you could get them from Rare Spares or some other Holden parts dealer.

Vacuum line for the brake booster. Alternatively, it can be used for the vacuum advance for your distributor.

All existing cars will be fine and wont need to go through the engineering process again.

Narrow minded much? Yes, and they are about to become Nationwide. But thanks for your incite.