kangaroosa

Just shy of the 2298cc of a 12a Rotary :wink:

I just got this info direct from my engineer this arvo. Apparently its soon to become a nationwide standard. Infact its what all VASS engineers in Vic use as guidlines when you go for a consultation currently. However, VicRoads aren't inforcing these new guidlines yet. I'm not sure when they will enforce it, but the engineers have been quoting these figures since late last year. Apparently if your in my boat where you got approval about 12 months or more ago, then these laws don't apply and you will be fine with the guidlines given to you back then. However if you have a consultation tommorrow, then you will be quoted the new guidlines.

They need to be set to whatever the manufacturer states. Heres a link to some diagrams. Floats

Don't believe everything you read on the internet. For fuel to get into the Venturis at the rate that was described, the fuel level in the float has to be waaay high. I went through this exact issue not 2 weeks when tuning my rotary to run on E85 Fuel. If your weber is setup and tuned 'properly' once, then it should be fine for an extended period of time. I mean jetting, and (balancing if you have twins), and timing etc. He hasnt mentioned changing jets, or any recent engine mods. So that rules out wrong jetting. Most of the time you will find that a manifold leak or fouled plugs will cause problems which most people convince themselves is all because of the weber carby.

Chokes as in the 'Venturies' Actually the bloke that tuned my car years ago when i had a weber, said anything over 3.5psi is not good for a weber. If you have over 3.5psi, you should really install a regulator. Webers need high flow but low pressure fuel pumps. Being a std Mechanical pump, you should be fine. I would still be reseting the float level.

Reset the float level. It could be set so the fuel level is too high and the excess fuel is ending up in the chokes. Also make sure your fuel pressure is around 3psi - no higher than that. If its too high, it will be forcing fuel past the needle and seat and filling up your fuel bowls.

All going well, my Rotorolla should be on the road in time. Its got chrome bumpers and a Rotor....can't get more suited than that. :y:

Have a search on here for threads containing S13 Silvia tops. I recall them fitting if you drill out the strut tower holes 1mm or so. Would be a good chance to make sure they fit with the coilovers you plan to get.

Pedders in Fankston did a good deal for a Member on here. I went to Pedders in Moorabbin and quoted that price, and they reluctantly obliged as i started to walk out the door and told them that i would just go Frankston if it was too hard for them. Pedders shortened my struts to suit the SV21 struts that I supplied. Supplied and welded on the coilover sleeve. Supplied and fitted springs. Total cost was $500 (technically that was trade price). The original price that i was quoted was slightly over $1000.

I didnt use the genuine Autometer sensor with my Gauge, basically because the drive fitting that came with it wasnt compatible with my speedo gear fitting in the gearbox. I did buy the genuine one to find this out though (still in the back shed i think) I'm pretty sure i ended up buying a complete sensor and correct drive shaft to suit my gearbox from a place in Geelong, VIC. It was around $80 which was perfect as i couldnt be bothered hunting around for a drive shaft to suit the autometer sensor. Gauge Works (03) 5277 9296 Unit 36 Shepherd Court, Geelong, 3220, VIC Give them a try

I use an Autometer Elec Speedo in my Rotary Corolla, in conjunction with a Hall Effect Sensor. Do some research as to whether a Hall effect sensor will work in your application. The item bolts onto where the speedo gear is. The drive pin goes from the speedo gear and into Hall Effect Sensor. The unit work on Pulses per revolution, which the Elec speedo reads. From memory, theres 3 wires from the sensor. Ign and Ground and the sensor wire that goes to the Speedo. Its a pretty simple concept, and it works 100% as you can tune the speedo to suit your application. If you change wheels and tyres, then your able to retune the speedo to suit.

I'm going to have a big Rotor embroided into it, so I just wanted some plain matts. Nevermind, I'll just make a template of mine and send it off to them.

They are specific matts for a certain model of car? If so, what make and model?

Thanks. I'll get in touch with him next week.

I made a recent enquiry about getting some matts for my car embroided with a logo of my choice. Now the dilema i face is that the company supplies their own matts and they don't have the KE30 Template nor do they stock any matts for early corolla's. So has anyone ever fitted matts from a later model car into their KE30/55, and found them to be a good fit? Failing this, I will have to make my own template and send it off to them. They can then make custom matts to suit my template, which is just an added cost that I am trying to avoid. I'm really only after answers from people that are running genuine manufacturer matts (or matts made specifically for a certain car), as this will be what the matt company supplies. The generic ones from supercheap etc are of no value to me.

Stricter? My '74 KE30 needs to be under 500ppmHC. So far with an extend port and DCOE it came in at 1100ppm. With a standard 12a it measured in at 1000ppm. Stock carby is my next step......but trying to get it to run on E85 is proving a challenge in itself. Failing that, i'll have to put a Cat on it. If your planning on engineering an engine into your car, make sure you engineer a stock engine to give yourself the best chance possible of passing. As for the 2T it will most definately have to be engineered. If theres any welding of engine mounts etc then it automatically requires VASS approval.

I took my intake manifold to a head reconditioner and had him machine about 1.5mm off the face of the manifold to match the same thickness as the extractors.

I have an R31 LSD diff in my KE30. I had the longer side of the diff shortened to the same length as the shorter side, therefor you can just use a spare short axle. Running 15x7" wheels with 25P offset just gets the tyres inside the gaurds. The diff centres are the same as most Commodores (would have to google that for more info). I however wasnt keen on the 3.?:1 ratio so i purchased a brand new 4.11:1 ratio. As for the front brakes....I would hazard a guess that its all custom work and maybe other more viable options are best suited.

I was at Centre Road wreckers on the weekend and noticed that two of the AE** cars had strut to firewall braces if anyone was in the market for one. I think one was a AE92 and the other was AE80. Just going by memory from the chassis numbers in the firewall.

Simply measure how much movement the clutch master has from fully depressed to fully extended. Thats how much throw you will need to obtain from the push rod. Have a search on here for "KE30 Hydraulic Clutch" and you should find more info and pics on my setup.

There was a 32/36 DGAV on one of the 4 cyl cortina's at centre rd wreckers a few weeks back. Might be worth grabbing that one if your close by.

TRX rims are 15" x 6" with about 30P or 32P......unless yours have been modified. But being an alloy rim, i can't see that happening I now run them on mine as its the only wheel that will get me under the front maximum track allowance.

I used to run 15" x 7" 8P on the front of my KE30 with 195/50/R15 No srubbing issues and the tyres were inside the gaurds. These bumped the front track well over the +25mm limit, so they are gone now.

Whats the difference in weights between a 30 and 55? I can't imagine it being much as they are basically the same car. I do know that it wasnt a case of being borderline no to the 13B. It was a NOPE. Maybe someone who is keen should try their luck with one of the other VASS's and rule out any chance that its just my engineer that knocked it back. I think a mod or region leader should move this to a new thread as its starting to take over from the main reason of having this meet and greet thread.

The 13B got knocked back due to strict power to weight laws outlined by Vic Roads. The whole driveline on my car has been upgraded, as well as the chassis being strengthened. Its doesnt make a scrap of difference to an engineer when using that as an argument to push for a 13B conversion. The figures are taken from stock power figures, regardless of the fact that you can get a ported 12A to go harder than Stock 13B. If you have your heart set on a 13B or 20B, just go buy an RX7 or a Cosmo.