kangaroosa

Well the Rotorolla is due back from the workshop in a few weeks, and the next step is to get her painted. I'm trying to find a painter that will happily wheel my car in, mask it up and spray it for Cash. Seems simple..... A few places in Moorabbin wont even entertain the thought unless they do the bodywork and prep. Body work is already done.... They had a scenario where a bloke prepped his own car and paid the panel beaters to spray it. Months later rust bubbles appeared in the blokes car and thus he took them to court and won. Stupid i know, considering the painters only pulled the trigger and had nothing to do with the bodywork. So its a case of once bitten, twice shy. So I'm keen to know if you have contacts/recommendations for a beaters that will push my car in, Mask it up and spray it. All rubbers and glass are out. Preferably South East region. I'm not after one of those $599 thinners bath and cheap paint respray joints by the way. I may just get fed up and spray it myself again in Acrylic.

Allow me to share some of your pics that I found somewhere.....

A series 5 turbo box is not major overkill if you are sporting a large port job and a decent clutch. Especially if the car will get some track work. Considering the amount of fabrication that goes into the project, you may as well buy the best gearbox to suit and fabricate the one set of mounts and one tailshaft. Rather than breaking gearboxes and having to swap them out every few months. I've heard blokes breaking S1&2 boxes monthly. 12at boxes are getting pricey and rare if your in a rush for one. S1 gearboxes are smaller......but they are still larger than a K gearbox and just about as strong (not very). I've had a S1 box bolted to my 12a and sitting in the engine bay with the sump hard on the cross member and the gearbox hard up against the roof of the tunnel. The engine cross member either had to be cut and lowered, or the trans tunnel had to be raised as the engine had quite a few degrees of downward slope. You can imagine the s5 box was not any better.

I have mine in the shop at the moment for this conversion. 12a N/A - Series 5 Turbo Box Definately will need the tunnel raised. Custom engine mounting blocks on the front chassis rails Custom front mount plate on the engine Custom Gearbox Cross Member Custom Extractors and exhaust Relocate the heater / go aftermarket Upgraded diff would be a very good idea (I have a shortened R31 Skyline LSD) The list goes on, but you get the idea. The pics are from a NZ blokes setup, and are similar to what my engineer approved.

If its a redline manifold like mine was....they are a prick. - Replace the bolts with threaded studs and use nuts instead - Cut a 14mm open end spanner in half - Drop the alternator and you can gain access to the nuts through there

Carbies looked like you cleaned them up a little. Noticed you did away with the red socks too. Did you ever get my custom front springs into your car?

Are the Calder Park drags still on during the Winter? Might be worth a visit if your into that kind of motorsport. Its normally a Fiday night activity.

Because he cut off the pedal assembly, moved it upwards and packed it outwards. Then welded it back on...as well as extending the clutch pedal. Do a search for a topic started by me, regarding KE30 KE55 Hydraulic Clutch Setups. I used a different method which hopefully will work just as well.

I was at Centre Rd Wreckers on Sunday getting a few parts. Whilst lifting bonnets to check out battery trays, I lifted the lid of an AE71 to find a turbo bolted to a manifold. At first I thought it was a conversion, but upon closer inspection it was just sitting in there against the motor and on the wrong side of the engine. It was a Garrett turbo of some description (don't know whether someone stashed it there and was coming back for it.......) anyhow, i now know where it lives so if you want it or if its of value, let know and I will tell you where it is.

Yeah, thats a fair point. I may just do that when i replace the exiting bolts for the master with longer ones.

I just setup my KE30 pedal box for a Hydraulic clutch setup using a different method as many others have done on this forum. So I thought I would share. It uses the standard KE30 Manual pedal box and a Series 1 RX7 Master Cylinder (which is suited to my 12a Rotary conversion). The master needs 25mm of pedal travel from start until it bottoms out. Best of all, the master bolts up to the existing provision on the firewall once you cut a circular hole in the firewall. I will be replacing the existing fixed bolts with some longer items as i can only get about 1/2 a nut holding the master on. What you will need: - 10mm Threaded Rod (nuts and washers to suit) - 8mm Threaded Rod (nuts and washers to suit) - An angle grinder (or hack saw) -Cordless or Electric Drill -10mm Drill Bit (you will need smaller sizes to work up to the 10mm hole for the threaded rod) -The pics explain it better than i can, but you basically drill a hole in the pedal where it will give you the correct amount of pedal throw to suit the master cylinder of your choice. Having the hole close to the pivot point will give less travel than having the hole further away from the pivot point....common sense. It just so happens that my hole had to be a few mm below the ideal plane, but nothing fouls and i get the required travel with a few mm to spare. Which can be adjusted out using the pedal stop on the pedal box and the adjustable push rod. -Drill the 10mm hole for the threaded rod to pass through and tighten a nut on either side of the pedal to hold it in place. -Then place another nut for the push rod fitting to rest on, so its on a level plane with the master cylinder. Tighten the fitting in place with another nut (well its not supposed to be tight, but loose enough to allow the fitting to rotate on the rod). I ditched the existing push rod as it was too short. In its place i have a length of 8mm threaded rod. I linished the end section that enters the master cylinder so it was smooth and has a rounded tip. I had a few attempts/ideas that i undertook before coming to this solution, hence the big sections of metal missing from around the pivot point. I will weld some bracing in its place to strengthen it up. I will also be tack welding the nuts to the rod and pedal. I'll just loctite the nuts near the rod fitting to allow it to be removed if I have to. I'll also put a locknut on the adjustable push rod to prevent it from re-adjusting itself So there you have it. An alternative to cutting the whole clutch pedal assembly off and moving it upwards and outwards as many others have done.

I assume thats for a Jap Diff? I've only ever had BW diffs so i have never payed attention to jap diffs and the possibilty of an offset centre. If its for a BW, i have a few spares that will be given to Pozman along with a diff. Maybe you could sort something out between yourselves if thats the case. Centre Rd wreckers have a few KE's and Jolly Rogers has One. Not sure on what diffs they are running though. Worth a call maybe. G Town = Geelong?

I went to Harvey's this morning and grabbed both the door glass and rear quarter glass. All of which is pretty schmik. Also scored some weather strips/felts for the doors. Just to let others know, Its got rust on the front of chassis rails where they meet the radiator support panel....so its probably not worthwhile buying the shell. Seats are torn and dash is cracked bigtime. Carpet is average and its an auto. P.S. It wasnt me that munted the drivers side door trim. Somebody had already gone to town on it.

Like a 4 Door It will be listed as "KE30 2 Door Sedan"

I need lhs and rhs door windows for a ke30 2 door. I still have mine but they had annoying scratches in them which i was hoping to get polished out. But during the body work phase i was doing grinding and welding....which somehow made it onto the windows and pretty much stuffed them. I got a quote a few months back from one of the major glass suppliers. Each window was ~$260...pfft. Fair enough I understand its a supply and demand issue...but i can get 4 windscreens for the price of the 2 door windows. I also need a new windscreen as i lost my temper whilst getting mine out.....

Windows.....Please tell me it has scratch free door windows. I'm in the market for some so i can get them tinted.

Some of you may know that I am part way through a 12A in my KE30 conversion. Basically the price i have been quoted to do the full package is not as cheap as i hoped and finding someone to do the whole scope of fabrication work is beyond ridiculous. They all want to do certain parts of the job (i.e. Mount the engine and gearbox, but not fabricate custom extractors and exhaust). However i can get different trades to do the work to save myself a few grand......assuming I don't blow all the saved $$ on tow truck fee's. So this is basically a call out to any Melbournians that are willing to lend me a tandem trailer on a few occasions to get my car from workshop to workshop. Name your price, and i can even store it at my place full term for a few months during the scheduled works....or i can drop it back to you after each time i use it. Its your call. Name your price. If I go this route it wont be for about 6 weeks until i can get it booked in. If i bite the bullet and take it to a workshop that is willing to do all the work (engine, gearbox, tunnel, tail shaft, extractors, exhaust) It could happen next week and make a $5000 dint in my account.

Kermit the Green KE10? with 'KE-1968' plates Anyway, he pulled up next to me at the North Rd and Nepean Hwy Intersection. Looked identical to the one that spent a bit of time at Peter Robinson's workshop quite a few months back.

Or you can fit a coilover kit to the struts and use SV21 Struts from memory. I have the exact brake upgrade but went the coilover route (was only about $500 to have the struts cut, with coilover kit fitted including springs). Something also had to be machined to mate the strut top to the shocker? I can't remember correctly. Pedders did the work btw - But you could always use different brand and stiffness springs if you so desire. I retained the standard Corolla LCA's and the wheel alignment visually looks fine. It has no more neg camber than it did before the conversion.

Not exactly what i was getting at, but i see where your going with it.

Rotaries in KE30 2 Door 12A = Legal (Naturally Aspirated) 13B = Illegal Apparently some strict new Vicroads laws came into effect midway through last year, limiting the power upgrade % when performing an engine conversion. Apart from that, I believe the corolla is too light on the power to weight scale as well. Engine capacity has a great deal to do with it as well. 12a = 1.2L x 2 = 2.4L 13b = 1.3L x 2 = 2.6L When i had my first appointment, I took in numerous pages of specifications for both the corolla, the rx7 donor car and the 13b (the engine i was aiming for) and the 12a as a backup. The specs i used for the corolla were power figures from overseas models, so the power figures were highly exaggerated compared to real life in Australia. So it made the rotaries standard power figures seem like it was not such a huge improvement. Try a few engineers from the VASS list. Maybe one will give it the go ahead for a 13b. Just make sure you make an appointment and get it all in writing with the full list of specifications. It would suck to do the conversion, only to have the engineer deny any claim that he would pass it. One of the first fabricators i spoke to mentioned maybe fabricating a full chassis as a means to get the 13b engineered. That would need to be discussed in detail though, as it still doesnt change the power to weight ratio.

Try searching a rotary forum, like Ausrotary. You don't buy a rotary powered vehicle for its Fuel Economy. You buy one because you like the styling and sound af a rotary. Yes they can be thirsty when they are ported....even when they are standard, they are not the most fuel efficient engine going around. The crap about being unreliable is a thing of the past. The parts and seals have advanced in leaps and bounds over the years, making them much more reliable when treated properly. Its all the old rumours that people keep spreading from the early years (that a mate of mate has told them) that give them a bad name. N/A Rotaries are fine and can last a few years before needing a rebuild. Its when you start throwing heaps of boost at them, that causes drama's......but you get that with piston engines too. For a definitive answer on fuel consumption, have a search through www.ausrotary.com I'm sure you'll find the info your after. The price of old rotary powered Mazda's is insane. Its almost worthwhile engineering a rotary into a corolla if you find one. Which is what i'm in the middle of. The bloke I got my Stock 12A off, told me that he normally ~12L/100km when driving sensibly around town. When driven in anger it would use ~16L/100km. I've heard stories of Monster ported engines chewing through 40L in 200-230km

Just did a bit of digging around about these: Has a reference to spring loadings and how the plates work. Datsun 1200 Fitting Sprung Load Locker: The diff is modified so that two plates are fitted into the diff centre with springs applying equal pressure on either axle, proving a break away pressue of appox 50 psi (lsd is about 75-85psi i think and standard open diffs are about 20-25 psi) so its a midway thing, but it only costs $250 to get fitted and has proven to last 3 rally seasons quite regularly, when it does die the diff acts open centre and costs $150 to make like brand new again, the guy that did it for me takes youre diff centre for approx. 10 days so you need alternate for mean time. the only restrictions as far as the car goes is that it will fit all diffs except 2 he found he couldn't do so far (i think charade and some other small thing) so h190 is no prob and other restriction is the car has to have less than 200hp (at wheels i think it is). apparently there are a few guys around doing this conversion but the guy that did it for me is called "Tayell Automotive" in East Bentleigh Melbourne Ph: (03) 9579-5529 and John is the blokes name As far as driving charachteristics it basically acts like an LSD, as in both wheels will put power to the ground but when turning the outside wheel will be allowed to spin faster and not harm turning or scrub tyres, also I'm told it will not push you through a corner anything like a locked diff does when youre going hard, though it will a little. This is all what ive deen told as ive only had the conversion done for a few days i havent fully explored its driving charachteristics though it seems very effective, see project car in october 4th entry for descritoin of what ive found so far.

Theres two in Ballarat. VICROADS VASS

I'm dealing with an engineer for my conversion at the moment. The main things he wants to check upon the conversions completion are: - Crack testing of the Corona Stub axles used in the brake upgrade -All welds to meet his reccomendations (3mm Mild Steel for engine mounts - No greater than 1.5mm wide Welds - DEFINATELY NOT ANY WELDS ACROSS THE CHASSIS RAILS!!) He emphasised that. Apparently its induces cracking......so the only welds on chassis rails are to be along the length. - Brake test - <96db at 3/4 of the max rpm The rest is pretty much straight forward and should be part of your roadworthy requirements anyway. Any fabrication work (mounts, diif, cages etc) need reciepts to prove the fabrication and welding was done by a pro. In vic be prepared to shell out $1000 for the final Certificate if you have changed the engine, gearbox, diff, brakes and wheels.