kangaroosa

Agreed. I have been smashed into twice. 1st time I was rear ended and the car was repaired within 3 weeks of the accident. 2nd time the person at fault was not insured. Shannons appointed a soliciter to sort it out, and its due to hit the court next year. Needless to say my car was fixed within 4 weeks of the accident anyway. I can't say a bad thing about them. I would never go back to 3rd party ever again. For a few extra hundred a year, you have that peace of mind that in the event of an accident your insurance company will sort it all out for you. Just for reference - Shannons do not have a "3rd Party Fire and Theft" policy. Only a 3rd Party and Theft.

I think those overseas cars have to have an elec motor hooked up to reverse the car aswell (motorbikes not having reverse). Would sound great, but I can see the smile on your face would be < the hole in your wallet.

I sold my 5K yesterday. The rotor is going in during January, so depending how that goes i'm not sure if my Rolla will be there.

They were the cheapest quote i got. Most major places wont touch cars that are extensively modified. The following is what i pay annually. I have been with them for about 6 years, so my no claim discount has brought the premiums down. They also do special rates when you have multiple cars insured with them KE30 Corolla - Full Comp Agreed Value for $4000 = $480/year N14 '94 Pulsar - Full Comp Agreed Value for $4550 = 550/year

Shannons Insurance. I have 2 cars insured with them, both Full Comp Agreed Value. ('94 Pulsar and '74 Corolla) Shannons don't care what is done to your car, as long as it is Roadworthy. Which means if it has mods that need to be engineered....then they must be engineered. A stereo is the least of their worries.

Yes (well a full set are) and Yes (compared to the fact that you could get some nice 2nd alloys for the same price). It just so happens that i stumbled across a set of 15" Chasers/Interceptors today.....but i got lucky.

Radiator Side Theres a few different sized caps. Its possible you have the wrong sized cap.

I've got one and have had it for at least 8 months. Its by far the best wheel i have ever owned and the best one i have seen advertised. The clutch pedal is what makes it all that much better though. The 900deg is a killer in racing games though, and i don't think mine is even set nearly that high. I guess it would come in handy in Drift games.......but YAWN.

....talking about having a bad day.Lucky

Wow i think this thread has hit an all time low. It shouldnt matter what is different about disabled people. Most are born with it and deserve the same kind of respect we ask for ourselves. My cousin has down syndrome, so i learnt from a young age to respect all people no matter what their circumstances. Making fun or joking about disabled people is a low act. /rant Back to posting random photos maybe?

I've heard that some of the Chrome silicon steel springs from Iskenderian are coloured Orange. The bloke who tuned my car swears by Isky Cams. He has a Datto Rally car that is constantly over 5500+RPM and has never had an issue with them. The only draw back is that his set was more than a few hundred $$.

I have an Exedy Sports Tuff clutch behind my 5K. I've had it for a few years, and it still feels brand new. More than enough grip for a 5K, whilst still having the std clutch pedal feel. Best of all it was only around $150AUS

Does this mean that when doing 60MPH, the gauge will read 100MPH.....which in actual fact is really 100KM/H. So its just a matter of adjusting your mindset to realise this?

Work Car

Yep. It all bolted up fine, and the geometry seems to be spot on. Havent driven it yet becase the brakes arent piped in, but it all appears to be fine and should work well. No change in the track (as was expected) but was very glad that the wheel was in the gaurd when i dropped it off the jack. Thanks

Sell the Lovells for $80. Order custom springs for $150. So a $70 Outlay for the correct height and stiffness. What will compressing and re-tempering your Lovells cost? More than $70 i'm thinking. I've had Compressed and retempered springs in my Rolla. Its completely legal and most spring shops will do it. I never had an issue with them. But most definately for peace of mind and most of all 'ease and accuracy', go with custom.

Hrmm 60%. The electrical and weights killed me. Its strange because i kicked butt in the RAAF Aptitude Exams.

Ok, first of all Thanks for the pic. I just bent my existing lines into the shape i need, but he will have to duplicate them with the required fittings. Luckily, thanks to your pic I noticed i have stuffed up. I ran a line to the front hole where the brace should be, instead of running it underneath. I totally missed that second hole underneath. I spoke to the brake bloke today and he said that its fine to run one line off the master for the front brakes, and run it straight into the diverter block. As for the spare hole....just plug it with a bolt. Apparently my master cylinder and booster were built to suit each other. They made a new piston for the master to suit the booster, so the spacer is not required. Thanks again for your help.

Ok, so i have to run lines from both wheel arches to the master cylinder, as opposed to the one line from the diverter block for the fronts. I have a fitting on the very front of the master (Radiator side). Is this for the fronts that you mentioned. There is also another on the passenger side of the master, but tucked under. Hopefully these are the fronts your talking about. The larger one nearest the firewall is larger diam thread, so therefor i understand that its the rear one. I wasnt told about the need for a spacer. The brake guy mentioned something about measuring it up to make sure it all fits nicely. In the end i bought a new booster and master, so i'm not sure if he adjusted anything to suit as he was going to do when he was reconditioning it. Any pics or more info on the spacer would be great please.

I have installed a VN V8 master cylinder into my KE30. I forgot to ask which outlets are for front and rear. Its too late to call now, so is there anyone that can answer this for me, and possibly post a pic. I have to get these brake lines bent into shape and then sent off to have the correct threaded ends on them....preferably tonight or tommorow as the christmas holidays is quickly approaching.

Will try that tommorrow night. Thanks.

Massive amounts of Negative camber?

...

I actually just did a quick measure 'again' on the two LCA's. The KE30 arm appears to be 5mm longer when measuring from the center of the Balljoint to the center of the bolt hole to the chassis. The only thing that could be different is if the steering arm is offset towards the outside of the car?

Well my Corona Strut Coilover upgrade is all complete and bolted together. I have an issue where i cannot afford to have anymore track at the front of my KE30. If i were to use Corona or Scorpoian LCA's, the extra ~30mm of track would put my wheels outside of the gaurds. The KE30 LCA's are within about 2mm from centre to centre of the bolt holes from bolting up to the Corona strut. I could probably re-drill the LCA's to give the extra bolt hole width, but that also means i would have to do away with the sleeves that locate the LCA to the Strut. It all seems a bit dodgy to me...and considering this car is going to be engineered, I want everything to be spot on. So has anyone used another LCA that will be compatible with this setup? It must not provide anymore front track....if anything i need to lose 5-10mm.