kangaroosa

Thanks it did help. But its not the answer I wanted to hear. I guess I have some sorting out to do.

Just after the standard figures for the front and rear wheel track of a KE30. Preferably 2 Door Sedan, if its different to the 4 door model. I need to order some wheels to replace my 15"x7" Globes that wont pass engineering. I currently have 1370mm front and rear track, so i want to make sure the offset i order doesnt throw the wheel too far outward and take the track out of the permissible range. In VIC the max increase in track is: (for those that are in the same boat) Front +25mm Rear +50mm

Have you tried blowing compressed air through the fuel line? Years ago my fuel line was chock a block full of gritty sand. It blocked the fuel line and only allowed minimal fuel into the carby. You would be driving along and then all of a sudden it would start jerking and surging. Much like you, if i backed off or even clutched in it would allow the fuel to build up in the float bowl and give me enough time to pull over.

I used to use the redline one with my dellortos. Worked fine. I had mine years ago when they were reasonably priced though. Last time i heard they were retailing for around $320 Unfortunately you don't have alot of options in regards to manufacturers when it comes to sidedraft manifolds for K engines.

I used to run a 3 row radiator and front mounted 10" davies craig fan on my 5K. I had it running through a thermatic switch. Temp never got over half even when giving it a hard time. The best setup is to use the standard fan and shroud. It will work much better than an unshrouded and front mounted thermo fan.

I used to find that over tightening the rocker cover down caused leaks. Just do it up firm without causing the rubbers (the circular ones under the nuts) to distort.

The times are quite restrictive to those who work. Thats probably the reason for the lack of interest.

Theres a place along the new South Rd extension in Clayton/Heatherton that was advertising cheap yard space. I've seen a few cars parked in there just on gravel and out in the open, but its all fenced off. Theres also a huge shed on the premises, so maybe you could look into it.

Not so much that, but the fact that i have had an un-insured driver hit my car. My insurance sorted it all out, but it was all set to go to court at one stage. So much of a hassle because people have no regard for others or are too tight. Uninsured drivers really give me the *#@!s, hence my rant. Goodluck with it all, and i hope for your sake and others, that you have an incident free future.

The changes you noted are necessary items for the fitment of the driveline and fuel system. Not requirements that an engineer would nominate, as its a given that they would have to be done. I have a 12a in my KE30 and the engineer didnt nominate brakes as a required upgrade, as the factory power figures given for a stock 12A and a Jap spec 4K are within a certain percentage. However i did upgrade my brakes for peace of mind. Things that were requested were: - Crack testing of the front hub/stub axles - Diff upgrade - Specific design of engine mounting - Tail Shaft Loop Then theres the ovbious brake testing and dB tests that are undertaken once the car is ready for engineering. I've had fabrication such as diff upgrade, engine and gearbox mounting done by qualified workshops because i want that peace of mind that its all done right. I've done everything else. Budget around $15,000 if you want it all done right. Depending on how far you go with gauges and paintjob......it could be less.

The wheels fit fine inside the gaurds and fill them out pretty well. Why use Illegal spacers to get the look you desire whilst rendering your car unroadworthy and any insurance that you have will become null and void. You can also buy the hub centric rings you need off ebay. The Corolla hubs are 60mm and the trx wheels bore are around 69mm. No need to go paying for custom made stuff.

Nope, they are not spacers. They are rings that are placed in the bore of the wheel (or on your hub) which help locate the wheel securely on the hub. Rather than the weight of the car being loaded directly onto the wheel studs. Like these EBAY But you will have to order the right sizes to suit your application.

I was going to put them on my KE30 for engineering. Have decided they wont work with my setup, but they will with standard rolla running gear. You will need hub centric rings front and rear. Yes they bolt on though.

I heard on the radio from the cheif commisioner of police, that the penalty for starting bushfires can carry a sentence of 15-20 years of imprisonment. That sentence may be longer factoring in other related charges. Its also not easy to charge the arsonist with the murder of the 170 odd people that have been declared dead (so far) as it would be very difficult to prove that their main intent was to kill. Lesser charges of Manslaughter are more likely to be persued. Profilers also believe that the majority of bush arsonists are people under the age of 18. Its been revealed that the Marysville, Yarra Glen and Gippsland fires are the work of an arsonist.

I got back from fighting fires on my brother inlaws vineyard near healsville last night. Utter devastation.... I got home from work on Saturday about 6pm to find my sister with the kids and dog there because they fled the fires. My brother inlaw stayed to fight. I grabbed dad and we rushed out there to lend a hand only to be stopped at a road block on maroondah hwy near yarra glen. I got on the phone to my sis and she guided me through the back roads to their property. The last section was still on fire with fallen trees and branches everywhere. Anyway, we finally got there and got stuck into putting out all the spot fires on his property. Over half of the vineyard was levelled. We crawled into bed at 1:30am and at 6am got stuck into even more after we could get over to the other side of the hill. After using about 10,000ltrs of water we decided that we had done all we could, with all the fires extinguished and only a few poles smouldering in parts where the tractor couldnt access. The winds dropped off as did the temperature which gave some relief. The neighbours house 500m away was levelled. Luckily my Sisters house was saved, with thanks to some good fortune with a wind change and a 1000ltr fire fighting setup on the back of the tractor. The old Hilux with a few hundred litre tank on the back was great for racing to all the grass fires. The part that really pisses me off, is that Police have confirmed that some of the fires were deliberately started. Then the embers from those fires started other fires and so on. The toll so far is 138 dead. I hope the culprits are caught and dealt with to the highest degree. Heres some pics that I snapped after the worst was over. Poles burnt from the base upwards like cigarettes. There were thousands of these. Vinyards levelled by the fire. All the fruit is destroyed, as is all the watering systems and supports structures. Any fruit that wasnt burnt is either heat damaged or smoke damaged. The neighbours house above the power pole is just a smouldering heap.

Not entirely sure what wheels were on. It was just a blur as it went past because i was on the far left with a car beside me blocking the view. The wheels did seem at least 15-16" so i assumed they weren't steelies. I think it was a 4 door.

Saw an Orange KE30 flash past me in the opposite direction on Heatherton Rd, Springvale this arvo at 5pm. Only caught a glimpse of it, but it looked like a fresh paintjob. Lowered with wheels. It made some noise, but didnt strike me as a K engine sound.......

Get custom springs made to suit the exact height that you want.

Just take it to a radiator shop and have them strip it down and clean it out. My RX7 radiator cost me $50 to have the lower outlet relocated, and the tanks pulled off to be properly flushed and all put back together with a final pressure test. You said yourself the core is in good shape, so a re-core wont be necessary. If it costs you anymore than $60, go and find yourself another radiator shop.

Might be worthwhile checking with local road authority as to the status of the car on their registry if your car has to be re-registered. I had a bloke crash into me a few years back and the insurance company declared it an economical write off (I bought it back and fixed it). I had to wait a few weeks to find out that VICROADS wasnt informed of the status of the car, hence it wasnt on the VIV (Vehicle Identity Validation) list. To get a car back on the road that has to go through a VIV inspection is very costly and time consuming. I think the allowable tolerance for repairs is within 3mm of factory standard. I thought it may be something that may or may not apply to your situation depending on your vehicles registration status and state regs.

I take mine to the local tip/landfill site. They have a section where you can drop it off for free. I think they send it off somewhere to be refined and re-use it somehow.

I got my struts chopped down with a pedders coilover sleeve as pictured done through pedders in Warrigal Rd Moorabbin. I know some of the Frankston boys also had theirs done by Pedders in Frankston. I dropped off the struts with the shocks that i wanted to use. Pedders supplied the coilover sleeves, springs and bump stops. They did all the cutting and welding. You have to supply the shocks, so they know what length to chop the struts to. Pedders final cost was $500. I originally got quoted $1000 but once i mentioned that the Frankston boys got it done for $500 and that i would just take my business there.......he soon wised up and gave it to me for $500 (trade price). I think GT Suspension in Flemington had the adjustable strut tops advertised on their website a year or two back, but their site is down now. Might be worth giving them a call.

Its the same one that I run on my 2 door. I noticed one laying on the ground infront of a corolla today at Centre Rd. It was perfect so i put it on the back seat before some prick jumped on it.

Just thought i would update this topic as my car is all wired up and the immobiliser is installed as well. Nathan (Sprinter86) comes highly recommended from me. Top bloke and knows exactly whats he's doing. Very reasonable rates and nothing was an issue for him. 100 X neater wiring than mine too. :y:

I have a similar setup on my KE30. (probably one of the threads you read). Blackrolla - Lock nuts shouldnt come undone as thats the purpose of them. Loctite may also help. Maybe using some nyloc nuts would give that extra peace of mind instead of loctite. But none the less, that elbow is not locked on tight. The elbow is still allowed to pivot on the rod as the pedal is pushed in and out. The lock nuts basically prvent the elbow from slipping off the rod. I welded the nuts and rod to the actual pedal to give it more rigidity. The outer nuts are nyloc nuts. I also put a washer under the lower side of the master to align it with the push rod.