kangaroosa

No, I can't stand soccer. I rate it among Horse Racing and Motorbike Racing. I'm normally all for supporting the Australian Team in any sport.....but seriously....the Aus Soccer Team? They have won nothing, and always bail out in the first few rounds of any tournament. I hate how the media built them up to being Australias best chance of winning the World Cup.....Seriously? How deluded are they? Then when Aus failed to perform as expected, they start finding reasons for the failure. Its the coaches fault...what was he thinking, yadda yadda. /rant

Sorry but the old motor will be getting cling wrapped and tucked away in the shed. It will see the light of day when I need to pass an epa or dB test when the BP gets me defected. I spoke to the builder today and its all assembled. I'm dropping in tommorrow to give him the IDA and a few other parts so he can chuck it on the engine dyno. It will be tuned and have the timing set, so it will be ready to drop into my car without any issues. Its just in the final stages now, and he wants to get it all done so he can get some other work done before the Jamboree rush. He seems really excited about this motor....as am I. :lol: More pics to come tommorow. Hopefully even an engine dyno vid next week if I get there in time.

The latest addition is an Xtreme Rotaries built 12A BP which is currently in the build. The spare motor I had tucked away was supposably a 7000km old EP. It strangely came back from a dyno tune 12 months ago with added smoke trails, so its been tucked away in the shed until now. The strip down revealed that it may have been 7000kms since the rebuild, however it looked like 100,000km old parts were used to build it :lol: The only salvagable parts were the rotors and the plates. Although the plates appeared to have been ported using a dremel, and the seals had caught on the port leaving the port edges chipped and gauged. The eccentric shaft was also 70gms out of balance. The wrong front counterweight was used which showed up nicely with the tell tales signs of where it made its own clearance in the timing cover. So the build consists of: Machined down 13b housings Hi flow oil pump New seals throughout Balanced eccentric shaft down to 0.02gm tolerance (I was there when he got the final result, and I must say he was bloody happy considering how far it had come) Stat gears from a later model S3 End plates - Bridgeported - They came back from being heat treated earlier in the week. 48 IDA Weber The distributor will be modified to suit....and no, not locked at full. Lots of other stuff that I have forgotten The plates are being painted in a bright yellow 2-pack and the engine should be ready for pickup late next week. I picked up some 2-pack yellow paint for the engine bay, so my next mission is to rip the engine out along with everything in the bay and give it a freshen up as thats the only part of the car that hasnt got some love in the build. Machined down 13B Housings - They have an oil coating on them so thats why its a bit patchy and dull. Bridge Ported Plates - Yet to be lapped. Last weekends job was to fix the brakes as they have had no bite in them for some time. The solution was machined rotors all round. EBC Red front pads and EBC Green Rear Pads. The R31 callipers were also siezed as they had corroded in the hand brake mechanism. Apparently its common with these and XF callipers. The locked on callipers had glazed up the rotors, and the fronts were glazed aswell which wasnt helping the situation. The symptom that urged me to fix the issue was the rear of the car skipping and making bad noises through corners. I first assumed a dud diff, but it appears it was just the brakes trying to lock and causing the car to shudder and skip. Anyway, I use and highly recommend EBC Red Pads. Good cold bite (better than any Bendix Pads) and with some warmth in them, they are awesome. They don't squeel, and are advertised with low dust output. I have only done 200kms and my wheels are covered in dust, but i hadnt cleaned them after the pad change so it could be from the old pads. Not to mention all the break-in coating that may have come off the new pads.

When its not broken. Yeah people tend to love my Torana and Datsun on the odd occassion. :blinks:

CRISIS OVER PEOPLE!!!!!!! Pulled the engine out today and replaced the oil pump and o-ring with a 2.4mm thick one. I now have 70psi on startup. 55psi at idle when up to temp and 70psi under power. Touch wood - Lets see how long it lasts. I'm yet to drive it on the road, so i guess that will be the real test tommorrow.

Yeah sure..... If you'll be my character witness in court and drive me to work when the Police catch up with me and their hoon laws.

Because you sound like a typical Rotary hater.....no, there are no skid pics or vids for you.

Yeah its lost oil pressure. I replaced the timing cover o-ring last weekend....no change. Got the flu and have been in bed for 2 days. Ordered some new gaskets and o-ring this arvo. I'll try to get the same diameter o-ring from a bearing place, but slightly thicker as i noticed the genuine one was about the same thickness as the gasket. So maybe there wasnt enough crush in it. Also looked into replacing the regulators and oil pump. The bloke couldnt find the parts numbers for the regulators and the oil pump was going to be $311+GST and atleast 2 weeks from Japan. So thats all happened in the past fortnight. Its currently sitting in the shed undriveable. I'm still getting over this flu, so i'm in no rush to go laying under a car. I'll do a template or something for you mick, of the front mount. I'll get pics and measurements of the gearbox crossmember aswell.

The Cars The Nobbies (I saw the sign and had to find out what they were) Sun Setting The Beast

Well I just got home after going for a bit of tourist stuff after we left. I honestly thought it was going to be a tow truck trip home for me. My oil pressure dropped again....down to 20psi at cruise speed and 0 at idle. Kinda scary since it idles at 50psi and 75psi whilst cruising. Anyway i just kept driving hoping it just got me home...other than i couldnt care. Getting the pics off my phone as I type, so i'll add them later. Thanks to Brendon for organising it. It was a great day. Matt don't forget to post the pics of "Quickest Lap of the Day". Wish i had a pic of you in the tyres after the chequred flag :P

I'm still in...infact i'm off to bed now. See you all tommorrow.

I was planning on attending this cruise. I would be up for Go-Karting aswell, but if you already have the numbers I'm happy to sit it out as i'm a late confirmation.

I would be throwing new plugs at it for sure. I run an elec ignition so the BR8EQ are said to be the better choice. I have run B8EGV in the past and fouled a few of them. They are claimed to be suited to points style ignitions anyway. Retailing at about $17 a plug, I wasnt putting up with that for long. I have also run B9EGV (colder plug) and was no different to the B8EGV. I have never dropped down into the '7' plug range. I would have gone through about 4 sets of plugs since my car has been on the road. Most of which were changed out prior to tuneups and are still fine. I also carry a spare set in the glovebox just incase. Until you can get it on a dyno, you wont get the full potential out of it.

As I mentioned in this thread, they slip during cornering on tarmac like its not even there. If you jack the car up, both wheels will rotate forwards like an LSD. On low grip surfaces like gravel, the inside wheel will skip a little like a locker as the tyres aren't gripping up. These work well when the driveline is loaded up.....aggressive throttle and clutch dumps. They were really intended for club cars and rally cars. Most have the springs replaced every season. Theres no well in hell i'm going to post a burnout vid....only to have the police track me down as a hoon and confiscate my car. I sold mine a long time ago and it went behind a CA18. I can't recall if the gears failed or if the tayell setup failed....either way it lasted a few weeks.

I wouldnt be using the standard gauge as a good guide. Get yourself some Stewart Warner gauges if you can afford them. Goodluck.

Lean engines run hot. If it chokes up an noses over....kinda making a sucking noise but without the power, then it could very well be leaning out. Have you checked the float levels to make sure the float bowls arent draining? Have you moved the timing from its initial spot when you purchased the engine. Have a play with that and see if it cures it. The engine is still stock standard and was running previous to you buying it i assume, so its going to be one of the obvious things giving you grief. How hot is hot? Tried a digital thermometer to check the accuracy of your in dash gauge? Mine sits on 90deg driving around the streets. 82-83deg out on the highway doing 100km/h. It quickly races up over 100deg when i give it hell through the windies. I guess its all to do with airflow as it sits steady at idle. The radiator is blocked by the bumper, grill, radiator support upright and the radiator support panel will block a great percentage of it aswell if you havent enlarged the opening. Having said that, your ASI rad should perform alot better than my std 3 row RX7 one. What rad hoses are you running? They aren't bent out of shape or kinking under full load? How old is the thermostat? Replace it with a genuine one if you havent already replaced it. Finally, is the cooling system pressurising? I had a dud radiator cap which was leaking, thus making the cooling system less than desirable.

SCROLL DOWN PAGE 2 SECONDARIES NOT OPENING MECHANICAL SECONDARIES MODIFY SECONDARIES TO COME ON EARLIER don't bother upgrading the coils. The stock matt black ones are more than sufficient. Mine still throw a spark from the coil to the strut top if I don't have the leads hooked up. Your running issues are most likely all carby related given what you have said. Try playing around with the idle mix screw and the air bleed screw. These along with the idle screw will most likely solve your issues. Adjusting the idle: in simple terms, adjust the top (air) screw until the desired idle speed is reached, then turn the bottom (fuel) screw clockwise until the engine hunts (leaning out), then back it off a few turns until it runs smooth.

I don't have pics, but there should be a vac canister from memory on the drivers side/radiator corner of the carby. Thats the unit for the vac secondaries. Alot of people wire the linkages so they become manual. I just did away with it and whacked a weber on. Have a search on Ausrotary. Theres as many threads on there about how to sort out these carbys, as there is threads on here about how to work a 4K.

KE30/55 is Same

Have you got the brake vaccuum line bolted onto the manifold? That thing got me once, when i swapped from a nikki to weber. Are both of the vaccuum advance hoses connected to both the carby and the distributor? If your car is not tuned very well, rotaries have a tendancy to kill spark plugs in a flash. I spent hours trying to get the old girl started on E85. Turns out i fouled the (few hundred km old) plugs during that time. A new set of plugs in and it was perfect. I know theres alot of opinions on spark plugs on 'AR', but I use NGK BR8EQ and have never had an issue. The B8EGV are ok too but alot more pricey.

Time to get the timing done and get the carby tuned. Mine went through emmissions testing with 70rwkw with a heap of fuel taken out of it. It was so flat, infact my 5k went harder. It was lean enough to get emmissions down, but was ok as long as i didnt get stuck into it. Then after a good tune it came out with 103rwkW. So don't be too dissappointed just yet. It will respond really well to a tune. Has it got good compression anyway? don't go giving it hell just yet. Its most likely running lean in the top end.

I know in VIC, the engineers certificate is only valid for 30 days. Thats enough time for you to book into your local road authority to have the engine details updated. If its not done within the 30 days, you have to apply for another certificate at a lesser monetary rate. Having said that i still carry mine in a laminated book as proof incase the police want to dispute something. Maybe worthwhile checking the above out incase you go to the trouble of getting a certificate, only to have it expire before the car gets registered. However I recall in QLD you get plates for the engine bay that are fixed in place.......

Quote courtesy of QLD Transport. QLD TRANSPORT Just pop the cheque for my services in the mail, thanks.

Gas escaping out the water pipe/plate at the rear of the head would indicate a compression leak? So a cactus headgasket and/or a cracked head. Take the radiator cap off and see if it bubbles when the car idles. Take the plugs out and dip some paper towel into the cylinders to check if they're full of water.

I've been to Adelaide before. Once is enough thankyou. :)