KE30_KE35_KE55

Wow nice clean car I think it was worth it. I hope you got a Bargian !!!

How did that get up there? Anyway It says NO to car theft!!!

I think your best bet would be to buy a 1:43 scale model like this one http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1-43-TOYOTA-COROLLA...bayphotohosting. then simply copy it.

1 I think you better check the battery elecrolite level if that system is charging that much the battery would boil dry and the plates will warp without electrolite. 2 maybe you could test/ compair your multi meter with a friends or replace the battery on the meter. 3 repair charging circuit to charge between 13.8v to 14.2volt any more it will kill batterys.

PM sent.

I have 4 vehicles on Historic Registration. Rolla club is not a member of the federation of historical motoring clubs , but we could Apply to the federation for the club to be autherised. here is some information. CONDITIONAL REGISTRATION SCHEME FOR HISTORIC AND PRESCRIBED LEFT HAND DRIVE VEHICLES CLUB RESPONSIBILITES AND PROCEEDURES With regard to the ongoing lack of understanding of Recognised Clubs responsibilities of the procedures to issue Log Books and to keep appropriate records of Log Books issued to Club Members, the Federation has detailed below recommended procedures. 1. Vehicle Verification Officers Only Club Members authorised by Transport SA with a current certificate can issue a MR334 Vehicle Verification Form. (a) Is owner a financial member of your club? (Check with Club Treasurer or sight current club membership card). (b) All vehicle details should be checked and MR334 completed as necessary with a Residential Address. (P.O. Box No. only used as postal address). This is to stop interstate residents poaching on our system. Only South Australian residents are eligible for our conditional registration system. © Any approved variations to be noted on MR334 at the time of inspection. (d) Fill in a Vehicle History Sheet with Member's Name, Address, Vehicle details and Date MR334 issued and any approved variations in the Comments Column. (e) Give MR334 Form to Member to take to Transport SA to apply for Conditional Registration. (f) Give History Sheet to your Club's Authorised Registrar who issues Log Books. Show any approved variations. (g) Retain Club copies of all MR16 and MR334's issued. NOTE: Vehicle should be physically sighted (not a photograph), so accurate assessment can be made. There have been queries re: Other Clubs checking vehicles for a remote member. Feedback was negative to that suggestion for various reasons. The Federation believes any member of a recognised club should bring the vehicle to the Authorisation Officer at an agreed time and place. Via a day permit or transport by trailer or similar. The small cost involved is outweighed significantly by the savings between full registration and conditional registration as well as possible savings in insurance and stamp duty. But this can be sorted at Member /Club level. 2. Club Registrars Only Club Members authorized by their Club and whose names have been notified to Transport SA on Club Letterhead can issue and endorse Log Books. E.g. Unless authorised as above Club Treasurers, Secretaries etc. CAN NOT issue or endorse Membership Pages of Log Books. (a) Does the owner of the vehicle normally reside in South Australia? If not. Do not go any further. (b) Is owner a Financial Member of your Club? (Check with Treasurer or sight current membership card) © Before issuing a Log Book check that your Club approved the initial conditional registration, if not, have your Club Verification Officer issue a MR334. (d) Check Certificate of Registration and Club Records that a Log Book has not already been issued to this vehicle. (e) If Member has come from another Club with a Log Book issued by the other Club and wants to have a Log Book issued by your Club. The Member must first have the old Log Book cancelled by the issuing Club. Then produce it (cancelled) to your (Club Registrar) before a new Log Book can be issued. BUT the vehicle should be verified by your Club Verification Officer and an MR334 issued first, even if vehicle is already registered. (f) Fill in Replacement Date on Front Cover three (3) years forward from date of issue. (g) Fill in Owner and Vehicle Details as per current registration papers and stamp where indicated. Get owner to sign book. (h) Fill in Membership Year as necessary (or part year if member joined part way through year) and stamp where indicated and Club Registrar to sign. (i) Fill in Registration expiry date. (j) Any Approved Variations on History Sheet should be listed on Variations Page in back of Log Book (use one of the notes pages on early issue Log Books) and stamp with Club Stamp immediately after last entry and Club Registrar to Sign off. (k) If replacing a Log Book part way through a Registration Year for whatever reason; Don't forget to transfer any used days for the current Registration Year to the new Log Book i.e. Rule out lines as required and note reason in Log Book. (l) Fill in History Sheet with Log Book Number, Issue Date, Registration Expiry Date and Current Membership status. Use comments column for notations e.g. Variations, Old Log Book cancelled / New Log Book issued, Vehicle sold, Non Financial - Transport SA notified etc. NOTE: Clubs only have to notify Transport SA if the member is unfinancial after two (2) months from end of Club Year if a current Log Book is issued to said member. (Current means any Log Book that has not been cancelled. Information required by Transport SA - Owners Name and Address and Log Book No/s. and most important the Registration No/s. of Vehicle/s. (m) Stamp rear of Registration Papers with Club Stamp and write Log Book No. issued and Date issued and Club Registrar to sign. This must be done again when the registration is renewed. (n) Enter Log Book No. + Owner + Vehicle details on Log Book Return Sheet in Numerical Order please. Suggestion When Log Books are received from the Federation fill in Log Book Numbers on the Blank Return Sheets supplied with your Log Books IN NUMERICAL ORDER then Club Record keeping will be very easy. It will also help the Federation reconcile their records efficiently. See enclosed notes re: Log Book Orders and Return Sheets. (o) Send in Return Sheets to the Historic Vehicle Manager's address annually in September or October or when ordering Log Books which ever is earlier. Recommend that large clubs send in Return Sheets as and when they fill a Return Sheet completely. Even if you have only issued one Log Book for year, send in a Return Sheet.

Have You tried Lonsdale Auto Paint Suppliers Pty Ltd 17 Sherriffs Rd Lonsdale SA 5160 ph: (08) 8322 0030

a lazy fox

I drilled and sawed a LPG tank apart to make a sandblasting tank I drilled a like 100 3mm holes all the way around in a line then got a hacksaw and some cutting oil and cut along the dotted line its the safest way

very simply with the thermostat closed as the radiator cools its contents the hot water continues to rise from the bottom hose etc ect. the thermostat keeps the engine at a constant temp so it is closed until the engine is hot enough then it opens as it warms back up it keeps opening and closing as the temps change so it can keep the engine at the most efficent temp.

The calculations are great but it is assuming the thermostat is open for a whole minute witch i very much doubt it would be. If you have ever seen a thermostat work it may open every 30sec for 4 sec. The important point is whilst the thermostat is closed the thermosyphon effect cools more than just the radiator.

It is really quiet basic stuff when the thermostat is closed the water pump circulates around the engine. no flow thru the radiator. the radiator still continues to cool through Thermosyphon. Its that simple.

If the radiators thermosyphoning while the motors running No big problem just a broken fan belt. or the thermostat is closed.:lolcry:

Where abouts in SA or Adelaide are you located ? crash supplies. at Winsor gardens have the best paint lab in adelaide. but can be expensive, Paint supplys at hendon have a good product at a good price. Protec at Gilman have a cheap paint at a cheap price.

Manufactures have shaped the car to make it more aerodynamic, there is now reduced height at the front to fit the radiator tanks top and bottom , its also a case of more radiator less tank. It really does not matter what coolant flow direction as long as air can also flow through the fins.

That system is called Thermosyphon.

when you mix (dissimilar metals) an alloy radiator a copper heater core & brass Welsh plugs, old coolant all in the same cooling system Electrolytic Corrosion (Electrolysis) occurs . When two different metals are in contact with each other in the presence of moisture, there will be a flow of current from one metal (the "anode") to the other metal (the "cathode"), and one will be eaten away, or disintegrated Make sure you use a good quality coolant !!

Copper is a better conductor than alloy and heat rises.

Just tell them" Can you please wait a minute i have some thing on the stove I better turn Off" 1 hour later hang up the phone.

1 if the shaft or butterfly are worn replace the carby or the carby top. 2 if the heater coil is blown simply replace that. or you can buy a manual choke kit from most auto parts shops with all the adapters, cable ect needed to convert to a manual choke.

I always use Larry A1 stripes, he does all the car yards/Crash shops in my Area ect, I had the thin self adhesive chrome strips replaced around a wheel arch i think its the same profile. A 1 Stripes & Signs North Haven SA 5018 ph: 0418 855 226

Don't forget that the start circuit also gives a 12 volt boost to the ignition coil while cranking. with a new starter button switch it may start with a fully charged battery, but if the battery is down it probably wont start as the coil voltage to the coil thru the ballast resister when cranking would only be about 4 volts.

This was covered a few weeks ago, http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...mp;#entry201654 in Adelaide ,Antique auto parts at wingfield

For hard baked on grease around the cross members ect I use home brand oven cleaner the one for cold ovens, it is a caustic base so don't get it on any Aluminum or on your skin. follow the directions. it works a treat

The preferences from the Donkey go straight to John Howard anyway LOL. :y: What Pisses Me off is all the Adds and visual pollution We will All have to put up with for the next 5 weeks. :P