doityourself

Will have the 30 2door sorted by then. Will be a great opportunity to meet up with rollaclub members.

Did this one with a mate. You can use a KE70 Cross member, TA22 engine mounts (off the engine) and rubbers, A T18 T50, a T18 front half of the tail shaft and the KE70 rear half, setting up the hydraulic clutch requires some custom work - in fitting the clutch master to work with the original pedal, it may be a good idea to also brace the clutch master as the firewall has a bit of flex. Other than this you will have to enlarge the shifter hole back about 20 mm for the shifter to clear.

Anything more than a 10% difference in compression between the cylinders is a problem, that is a 25% difference, sounds like it need new rings - you've lost compression

Been polishing the wheels and bumpers with Autosol - brilliant stuff... Wheels before polishing And after Changed the grill for something a little more familiar

Stay true to the Corolla's origins - yeah sure a 5K was never factory but it looks basically the same. Should be good fun if driven with a bit of dedication.

BUMP Price Reduced

The Mobil On The Run has recently opened up after a refit to the servo, WOOPIEEE!!!! Slushi's are back at a decent price, 1000ml @ $4 - Four flavours to choose from.

Thanks fella, spent some more $$$ on the car sorting out the mechanical drives much better, did the timing from scratch - now 10 degrees BTDC, replaced rocker cover seal, retuned the new carburettor from scratch (the needle and seat were rubbish, swapped them out for one from an early 3K carby), bowl float has been re adjusted. Will get some more pics up soon

Bring Up My Post. Price is NEGOTIABLE

Hey guys, finally got my backside into another Corolla - turns out almost 4 years is too long not to have one. It's a 1975 2 Door, 4K, 5 Speed, and a Jap 4.3 diff. Going to change some things in time to come. So far replaced the carburettor, the spark plug tube O rings, gave it a bit of a tune up. Runs a little better. Off now to replace the gasket on the back of the head its dripping coolant, replace the spark plugs, change the thermostat. And another re-tune.

I'll pop in tomorrow, I'll bring the baffle plate

The former Mobil at Seaford on Commercial Road is now an On The Run. The slushi's have shrunk in size from 1000ml to 750ml, and the price went from $3.00 to $4.50 ULTRA DISAPPOINTEDNESS!!! Now searching for a new slushi venue

Selling my 2001 Daihatsu Cuore. I purchased this car mid September 2008 for reliable transport to and from work. Car has been well maintained, and serviced every 5000kms. Very cheap on fuel, takes regular unleaded however I have been running on Shell V Power since owning the car. Can fill the tank for less than $40 with Shell V Power, 500kms per tank. Fuel consumption is 5.5 litres/100kms in the city and have achieved 4.7 litres/100kms on the freeway. New tyres were fitted back in January, as were the brakes. Has tinted windows. And a nice sounding exhaust, a good tone whilst still quiet. 1.0 litre 3 cylinder twin cam, fuel injected, 5 speed manual gearbox. Very regretful sale but have to sell as I have another car and can't keep both. Car is located in Adelaide's southern suburbs. I am asking $3,400 - this price can be negotiable

I've got a couple of pictures before you got it tonight, shot peened, and another shot painted off the paint line

Okay Luc Once again you've taken a daily and totally out done yourself. After seeing these pics I am definitely going to have to invite myself to the shed to see it in person, maybe I should scrap some cash and get the DISCO SHOEBOX laid with some new red.

Been here checking out both of you updates for the last week or so

Looking good Luc, let me know when you need some spanners thrown around

Awesome job, if you or Luc need a hand feel free to let me know.

I always thought it was illegal to remove or modify the bump stops

I have found a short stroke shock for the KE30 strut is an insert for the N10 pulsar, its 3 inches shorter than the standard KE30 insert. It has the same pattern for the strut top also which I beleive is a T1 type nut. It will require 3 inches or less to be removed from the strut, depending if you want to insert a spacer in the bottom if you don't intend in slamming it to the weeds

Nice job Luc.

As someone who has had both the 2T and the 3T in a KE30, I would say its hard to decide on which motor to go with. I found the 2T quite a rev happy motor and whilst it didn't make as much power as the 3T due to age and displacement, I was more than happy with its performance. The 3T from what I found was quite torquey but that may have played a part in the fact a KE30 is quite light for a 1800cc motor. But I will say unlike a 2T it pulled like a steam train, and when you ran out of legs it was easy to shift it up a gear and re-apply the go fast pedal. One other thing is that it didn't like to swing out past 6000Rpm as opposed to the 2T but with they extra displacement there was no need. Both motors were used in the same KE30 shell, one motor after the other. The 2T was on it's last legs with massive air leaks and damaged rings from the time I installed it, The 3T was a recently rebuilt motor, which was also standard. Both motors where run with 2T exhaust manifold with the twin plane secondaries from the TA22 (re drilling of the exhaust manifold was required to fit the 3T), and a standard KE30 1.5 inch exhaust, with both standard resonator and muffler in place.