doityourself

The KE70 diff will go in with the rear half of the KE70 tail shaft bolted to the front half of the T18 tail shaft.

If you can stretch the budget to lets say 3 times more, you could get yourself a SR16VE from a N15 Pulsar VRZ N1 front cut, these motors make 147Kw in N/A form. All you would need to do is re route some water lines, move the TB to the other end of the manifold, and bolt up a S13 box, and still retain the standard ECU.

Just ask at sprint auto parts, they'll know the stuff. Use Autosol on the chrome, buff it well with an old T shirt or something, then grab the windex and go over the chrome again, it will really glisten in the sun

You will keep blowing turbo seals unless you get a turbo with a carbon seal. which is suitable for use with suck through set ups like your. A normal turbo will keep blowing seals as the standard seals are designed to take the pressure applied to them when high levels of vacuum are applied when the throttle butterfly closes.

Nice buy Mike, I hope you achieve your goals for this car, this should be an interesting thread to keep an eye on

Luke this is starting to take shape quite well, glad to see it's working out for you. Might grab Nath and drop pass some time to see this project in action. If you need any help don't hesitate to ask.

Have you thought about a 3T-c set up with a TA22 5 speed, the 3T motor can then be bored to 2000cc capacity.

Towee001 is right, it is indeed a 2T-B/2T-D, getting one of these motors though seems a little hard. From standard the 2T-B & 2T-D has bigger inlet and exhaust ports, a slighty lumpier cam which obviously resulted in more powers, roughtly 67 - 78kw's according to wikipedia

actually you can use the standard pistons but you will have to retard the exhaust cam about 4 teeth

I have an alternative to Fuel injection that you may be interested in, I have a mate who installs LPG. I could ask him for a quote on a straight LPG system for you, he may even have a Gas injection system to suit. I will be seeing him later in the day, so I will let you know

Like I said over the phone to you, I am more then willing to help out

Very nice car dude

If the KE70 strut is the same size as KE30/55 you can use N10 Pulsar shocks, they are the same design as the KE30 ones but have 3 inches shorter stroke, a small spacer will be needed on the bottom of the shock to bring the shock up in the strut. For memory you will need a 40mm spacer.

I found the best carby for a 4K was an early 3K carby with mechanical secondaries rejetted to suit the 4K, it worked far better than a 32/36 and the economy was fantastic aswell as retaining some good power.

We have a Toyota Forklift at work with a 4Y motor, the first thing I asked the storeman was "Can we put extractors on it?" he said "We don't make extractors for forklifts stupid!"

If doing an RB into a KE70 was essential, then why not go for a RB30ET, or the Ultimate in wallet destroyers the RB26DETT. The only reason I suggest either one is one is the cheapest - RB30ET - Holden would sell parts cheaply, and the RB26DETT for RB domination

SOLD

Well all it seems I have had a change of heart for Shikuza, I seem to have lost the desire to continue with KE30's. Its something that was a long time coming, and as much as I have tried to deny myself of this truth, the more I come to realise that I am trying to hang onto the past. In the next coming weeks I will be letting go of the rolla and driving my pulsar around till I can find myself a suitable car for SPL comps., and then sell the pulsar too.

Beautiful car mate. One question - Where did you get source your forged pistons and doubke valve springs from?

The best place is directly of the intake manifold, and unless your 4K is turbo, there is no point running a boost gauge, as the gauge will never see boost if it is non turbo.

But there is no real way of them to tell that, just get a change of engine number form.

The best I can suggest to you matey is that your pull out all your interior and remove the sound deadening and the air con (if fitted). You should have a noticeable difference right there. Every 10Kgs you remove is equivalent to 1Kw of power extra, for example removing the air con might save you 25kgs is like gaining 2.5Kw. Whilst it seem hardly worth it, if you continually find things that aren't needed the weight reduction will build up. Now if you really want coil over suspension, get some decent Aussie made ones and not some bling bling ones, King Springs make coil over kits starting a $100. However there are other alternatives to making the car handle better, the use of Nolathane bushes is a good idea, upgrade the sway bars too Whiteline Suspension would be good for this. Also find some good quality shockers.

Put in a nice little K motor, any 3K, 4K, 5K or 7K motors. There is plenty of "brain switched on" guys and girls here, any one of them are more than willing to share info on a decent K motor build. I would recommend a 5K, and throw in the 3 C's - Cam, Compression and Carburettor. Don't forget about port matching manifolds, some extractors, and a nicely made exhaust without the wank factor.

Yeah I forgot about that problem, my brother experienced the same thing with his RA40 Celica Supercharged 18RG on LPG but his only did it at idle, as soon as the throttle was applied it was fine.

Why not plumb back BOV?