doityourself

The best I can suggest to you matey is that your pull out all your interior and remove the sound deadening and the air con (if fitted). You should have a noticeable difference right there. Every 10Kgs you remove is equivalent to 1Kw of power extra, for example removing the air con might save you 25kgs is like gaining 2.5Kw. Whilst it seem hardly worth it, if you continually find things that aren't needed the weight reduction will build up. Now if you really want coil over suspension, get some decent Aussie made ones and not some bling bling ones, King Springs make coil over kits starting a $100. However there are other alternatives to making the car handle better, the use of Nolathane bushes is a good idea, upgrade the sway bars too Whiteline Suspension would be good for this. Also find some good quality shockers.

Put in a nice little K motor, any 3K, 4K, 5K or 7K motors. There is plenty of "brain switched on" guys and girls here, any one of them are more than willing to share info on a decent K motor build. I would recommend a 5K, and throw in the 3 C's - Cam, Compression and Carburettor. Don't forget about port matching manifolds, some extractors, and a nicely made exhaust without the wank factor.

Yeah I forgot about that problem, my brother experienced the same thing with his RA40 Celica Supercharged 18RG on LPG but his only did it at idle, as soon as the throttle was applied it was fine.

Why not plumb back BOV?

The W50 is out of RA23/28 and RA40 Celica's and the W40 is out of Corona I dare say you'll have to cut a new gear shifter hole further back but don't quote me on that.

No not a convertible, I ment get the old roof cut off and a new one welded on. Spoke to Rick from Toyoland Auto Wreckers today, the deal is if I completely strip a KE30 he will give me a roof.

Not even if it was re-enforced?

Decided tonight that its time to do the hard yards, I am going to stick this car out. Firstly I will pay off my in-dash no screen dvd mp3 player, then it'll be time to put away money for the roof chop.

Cheers for the comment counc, And raven, the small car is mostly for SPL sound comp purposes

Cheers for that Mick, I know of a KE30 rolla 3K auto down south for $150, the body is better than mine, it does have a spot of rust just below the rear quarter vent though (I thought its a weird place for rust but a shell is a shell) At the moment I am in no rush, just got to see how this pans out. There is no point doing it again unless the timing is right. However I am almost leaning towards either a Subaru Sherpa, Suzuki 800cc Hatch, or a Diahatsu Charade, I think it has something to do with the UNDER-UNDER DOG.

Thanks fellas that helps abit, at the moment I am going to drive it around and put some money away, then we will decide what happens. If I save enough and the weather fines up till then I can get a new roof welded on professionally and painted for $1000 If things don't go well then I will look at getting another car, something like a Suzuki Hatch 800cc. It seems that the KE30's the car of my life are a dying breed and are usually filled with cancer. And finally "love KE70" I have tried the buy a car with everything in it, and they are expensive to fix, hence the reason I am selling my Pulsar SSS.

It saddens me to say that the cancer in my beloved KE 30's roof has finally taken its toll. The rust patches under the vinyl roof have spread and now the car leaks in various places inside the cabin, just the other night a drunk derro slammed his hand on the roof of the car on one of the worst patches, as I got out of the car he piss bolted to his car and got away. The question that has been constantly residing in my head is what to do? I would love to fix her up but my money is tied up in other area. I know feel all I have done is a waste. Hey all, My KE30 has been SOLD tonight as of Tuesday 10/05/07 at 1:00AM

Try this link http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bochargers.html I couldn't find any GT20 with a A/R of 0.70, Not even a GT42 has that A/R. Where did you get your information from? From what I could find the only turbos with that A/R start at the GT45. According to Garret the GT45 is suitable for 700 - 1000hp and is recommended for 2.0 to 8.0 litre engines

Dude, the turbo of choice is WAY TO SMALL for a 2.6 litre, maybe ok if you use two of them but it would be better if you chose something like a Disco Potato GT28RS or bump it up to a GT35 or similar. We use to run 1983 Nissan Exa Tubo used a T2 as standard, we changed it to a T25, at 12 PSI we got a 100 kw @ the wheels and thats from a 1.5 litre 8 valve OHC motor.

Why get a weber, just get some slightly larger jets for the standard carby. The old trick for a 4A-c is to put ball bearings in all rubber emissions pipes. Take off the emission return from the exhaust, plug the tube with exhaust putty and put the pipe back on. You could ditch the old airbox and replace it with a Ram flo filter, after all its just an air filter. Oh and the last one is remove the head and have it shaved to bump up compression, you the excuse that you blew a head gasket and head to get the head rebuilt. :jamie::D:D:D

Yes that is true but if you look at the pics on page 2, you will notice that the cross member has be strengthened again. I would use something like 5mm sheet and do the same but note that I have seam welded my cross member in all areas, including adding extra washes to the lower control arm mounts to strengthen the hole from ever ovaling out again. I will have to get some pics of my cross member to show you what I mean.

full door trim started with the 55 I think. I have a set of black seats front and rear in Shikuza, they were donated from an early 30, I wish I got the black door trims and carpet too but they are gone now. At some stage I will get the front seats redone as the stitching is starting to let go on the ass section, the rear seats how ever are PERFECT!

Hi all I thought I would share some info about short strokes to suit KE30 struts, I don't know if these would work in other models but that's irrelevant. I went looking through a Monroe catalogue the other day at the local auto parts store. I found that Datsun / Nissan N10 Pulsar front shocks are the go. They share the same shock design which is T1 and have the same thread for the nut that goes on top, for the curious. They are 75mm shorter rod and 80mm shorter body, this means it requires an 80mm spacer in the bottom of the strut. I will be using this set up when I lower Shikuza by 3 inches.

I found this link http://www.kp61.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3206 Its is a KP starlet with a 7K motor installation guide. On page two http://www.kp61.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3206&page=2 He has cut a portion out of the cross member instead of modding the sump. I was wondering if this is a good idea or not? Any thoughts will be welcome.

These bell housing came from the Lite Ace, I should be picking up one next firday, they bolt to W55, W57, and W58 gearboxes.

I'd sell both my testicles for that. That rolla sounds crazy. I WANT IT, GIVE IT TO ME NOW! NOW! NOW!

The only T motor to come close to 2 litres is the 4T-GTE which was a rally bread motor used in the 80's. For memory the motor that would be available in a stock TA24 would be a 2T 1600cc but it could be a 3T 1800cc, which is a common swap. If it is a 2T or 3T the easiest way to get one in your engine bay is to swap your KE cross member with a TE72 (T18) cross member, and use T18 engine mounts. You would also need a T50 gearbox from either a TE72 (T18) / TA22 (Celica). You have to change to an hydraulic clutch assembly.

I wonder if Hasselgren do 3K-r motors too, I would sell my testicles for one of those!!

I named mine Shikuza Na Ushi its japanese for Silent Cow. But she's not so silent now, most definitely a cow though.

I have found some mounts on Trademe.co.nz Here : http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-95159054.htm I not getting them, I'm over this 4AG stuff.