doityourself

the dual diaphrams are vac advance and vac retard. if you want to retard you remove the hose from the advance side to the retard side. The way the pick up for the vac source is positioned makes it near impossible for it to pressurise.

ouuuuhh, yeah sorry about that, I forget about the A series rollas

a $2 plumbing plug from Bunnings can fix the overboost valve. step 1 - remove overboost valve step2 - install plug result - no overboost relief, works great for boost application of 9psi or more.

From experience with the K series trimatic, they can be built up to take 350 to 400 kilowatts. You can also have manual valve body set up, Reverse shift ie; instead of R N D 2 1. It will go R N 1 2 D. Stage 1, 2, & 3 kits too.

Yeah this event(s) are a definate go for me, my girlfriend is keen on the idea.

Again thanks you all very much, you have all been helpful.

Yeah thats sounds cool, I think my girlfriend Sam would even come along to that.

If you want to compare the K motors to anything, then you should compare them to the likes of Datsun A12's and Mazda 10A rotorys. Not motors that have a good 20 years on them. I have to say like K motors, the Datsun A12 are another fine example of a motor that you can thrash the piss out of, and the next time you start it, it'll pretend like nothing happened. Having said that, my 4k would kill any Briggs & Stratton 1 hp motor! :)

Thanks I've been waiting for an anwer like that. So its TA22, LCA's, Steering arms, springs, and struts. From KE30 its, strut tops.

Cheers for that Redwarf. Looks like I'll have to go to Toyoland on monday and start measuring and playing aound

I haven't got any springs handy but are they KE30 and TA22 the same diameter?

Hi all, I am looking into lowering the Green Pea KE30, and do a brake upgrade at the same time. I tried a search but found no luck. I was hoping someone can shed some light on the situation for me. I am hoping to lower the car 2.5 to 3 inches, with a significant rise in spring rate. I intend to use the car for drift / circuit / daily, and I am well aware of the legallities of going so low but if you've seen my wheels you'll know I blatently disregard the law. Thanks in advance Dale Jeffree

I am not a rev head anymore and the fact is the 7K has a fair bit or torque compared to any other K motor. Besides a few little things these go in pretty simple.

I am going there some stage this week, and am going to speak about getting one. So hopefully there will be a KE30 7K terrorising the hills soon!

Excluding the Beams motor, mounting a 3SGE motor verticle, requires drains to be drilled into the head and lines run to the sump, as the oil will pool in the head and the bottom end will go dry and BANG!

actually parts for the 7k are easy as they are in domestic commercial, a few car parts places can get part for them here is SA.

I'll help you out matey, Call Oriental 4WD and Commercial, they are on Meyer Rd in Lonsdale SA, before the RSPCA. There is two 7K motors there, I have inspected the both of them personally. One is a 7K-c motor with a twin plane exhaust manifold. The other is a 7K-E. For memory the prices are $1000 for the 7k-c, and $1300 for the 7k-e. Speak to Paul, tell him you know Dale (which is me) from the rolla club, he'll sort things out for you. Kind regards Dale Jeffree.

My brother had an Exa turbo that was 1.5 litres, he used a 2.25 press bent exhaust with a lukey turbo muffler. It flow really well and didn't have that farting in a tin can like cannons give.

You can stretch a 165/70 on a 13x7 they really stretch hard the down side is that you have to keep tyre pressure above 35 psi or the tyre will pop off the rim

I am sorry I was misinformed about SU carbs then, a mate of mine who is a mechanic said it, ages ago when I was looking at going this way.

Sweet a cruise straight after QLD holiday, Its like its ment to be.

Ahh sorry about that I forgot to mention the shave or slice as i like to call it. We ran 10.2:1CR

Now from memory my KE20 use to have a balanced and blue printed 3K, 4K head with HD valve springs and larger valves, and a really agressive cam. Power would come on really strong about 5,000rpm and would still be pushing hard at 10,500rpm with no valve bounce. However it only lasted 3,500 km's and died as a result of cracked pistons and rings. Some aftermarket pistons and rings may have told a better story.

You don't need to re-jet SU's, they will work on stocko 3K even if they were used on a Datsun L28. Thie thing about SU's is that unlike a regular carby they work on a vaccum set up, so rejetting is unneccessary.

It may be a good idea while one is at it to box section the whole arm to minimalise flex