mikeys toy

here they started in april of '68, called ke10 69 that continued with the sprinter (ke15), and the wagon (ke16) then in aug of '69 the changed the side markers (bigger), the front markers (bigger), added the 3kc and acccompaning 1200 badge and changed the model no. to ke11 (i think), ke17(sprinter), and ke18(wagon, also known as daisy) they only continued the ke1x series until 4/70; daisy is actually a '70 model, but since the parts books don't recognize the ke1x i list her as a '69 since she was born 11/69 of course that was just here.....we didn't get the 4door until '71

when i did this to daisy, i had to swap the clutch and front yoke as the splines were finer i also had to make a spacer for the clutch cable but then this was a '69 car and an '82 k51trans

i just used a big nut for a spacer when i used the starlet struts

hey! you said you HATED gorillaz.............

when i did this in daisy; i used the used, aftermarket one from a '74 te28

bosch pump here..... my battery is where the left rear seat used to be, about 2' from the pump, i am going to put yet another relay right off the battery the only time i feel the hesitation now is when i'm running the a/c it was 102*f about a week ago 69*f yesterday 89*f today.....

no, it's got the 2 bolt unit i used the starlet rod ends and welde up the balljoint stud to make it tight 93 ford taurus ball joints fit in the lower arm and fit the steering arm i used the ke1x tops btw

i *think* kp61 starlet struts will fit right in, they were the same length as the ke1x ones. i've never tried the insert tho

remove and plug your cold start injector, these tend to leak and are almost useless anyway

the entire time i've been running daisy with the efi, she's had a little hesitation under 3,000 rpm. it felt like turbo lag. i just chalked it up to the small pickup in the fuel tank and low volume. well i haven't driven her since CHRISTmas and i couldn't get over 55mph the fuel pump was cycling like it was on a flasher relay with only 10 volts going to it i redid all the connections to no avail, finally swapping in bubba's relay/fuse box it then has .5v less than battery voltage but was still cycling. when i started her though.....OH SHXXIT!!!!! suddenly i had 13.5v AT THE PUMP, and no cycling i took her for a drive, and my weak clutch was suddenly a LOT weaker. when i hit second, i almost spun out. it amazing to think that 1-2v could make that much difference. i used the main relay to kick a second relay JUST for the pump. maybe the load was too much for the efi and the pump on the same circuit? oh well....i'm gonna get in trouble now........

it's tough because the manifold sits over the valve cover so by the time you pull that off, it has cooled down and you don't get a true setting

wagons rule..... mine;

supposedly they are built on the echo chassis

got 3.57 in daisy...a little tall though 80mph@3,600rpm :y:

you guys do this too? i thought that was just a us thing

the key to getting the young market is.... you can order them from the FACTORY as riced out as you want

toyota here has built a rep for bieing owned by little old ladys and sensible folk to get into the young market toyota brought over 3 models and sold them under the name "scion" (google it) that is called a scion xb here, i kinda like them the scion xa is freaking ugly the scion tc is cool

that's exactly what i did, it's a pain in the ass to adjust the valves though i used kp61 struts and widened the lower arms for the disc brakes

it's just a chopped sr5 coupe note that it's a hardtop

rims, springs, brand spankin new headlights, and the tailights for nick

bow-chicka-bow-bow.....

well; airfare is going to cost over $3000.00usd, so aus. is looking a little distant we might do hawaii, or jamacia. but i REALLY want to do aus.

not worth it to fix for me....

some pics of daisy; ke18 homemade panel (cut-n-shut the windows)

well, i've made a deal to trade bubba off for a disc brake setup for the '69 plymouth and other goodies i will be driving bubba to the boneyard soon........