beerhead

Wtf, the bellhousing is wafer thin too, look at the edges on the side view. Does it def bolt up to a 4A? Must be some freaks idea to get an engine conversion in easy.

Yeah, I'd say they're talking about going to the auctions and paying $700 for a VT that's been rolled. If you use a VT motor you need to integrate the fob reader from the console and use the matching ecu so the immobiliser works. The gearbox is computer controlled too if auto.

Nah, spring compressors take the tension off the spring so that you can pull the strut apart without loosing body parts :( I've done it with a rattle gun once without them, and it is a little scary :( There is no FAQ for such a thing, its a pretty straight forward job though. There's only 6 bolts a corner tops that need to come apart, you could get a haynes manual to help you out, def worth it if you wanna learn about your car. Just have a good look at all the bolts, there are 2 that hold the strut to the ball joint, 3 at the strut tower and 1 in the middle of the shock you need to worry about, with the wheels off, and up on stands you should be able to work it out if you're a little mechanically minded. Where abouts are you? I might be able to point you towards a workshop that don't scam people.

This is a pretty rare conversion, probably better off cruising down the wreckers with a measuring tape and work out whats the best fit, any advice from anyone on such a conversion will just be stabbing in the dark.

Can you do the work yourself? You'll probably need spring compressors, 19mm socket, 17mm socket, and maybe a rattle gun if the shock nut doesn't want to come undone. 1 trick is to crack them before you put the car on stands. Monroes, pedders and KYB's are around $200 a pair. King springs around $150 a pair. KYB exel G's are probably the best shock for the money, a little firmer than the monroe. Sorry I haven't had anything to do with pedders shocks, can't really tell you if the rates are good in your model. Sounds like the side wall must be thicker on your new tyres. You'll have to have your guards rolled to run with em.

$1400 is a bit rich for pedders rubbish, you'll have a set of koni's and brand new kings for under retail price, then prob 2 -4 hours labour depending how much of a scammer they are. Are the new tyres wider than the last ones?

Iridium and platinum plugs can be damaged by gapping them, they've only got a really thin coat of noble metal, and if you chip it they'll corrode.

I got into them after seeing how much pain a KE70 can live through, 100,000km service intervals, air cooled :yak: And the motor is still going strong to this day. An old housemate of mine tested the 4K indestructibility, it took 30 minutes with no oil or water before the mighty 4K gave up :) If a Frankencar is your style, it's hard to look past an old corolla once you're hooked, they're so much fun to drive and mod.

All a hemi motor is, is just one that has a spark tube and the plug is in the middle of the head pointing vertical... almost every modern motor available these days(minus push rod v8's), It's not the wet dream fantasy they were new back in the 60's. You buy the cosworth V8 irokin and I'll supply a corolla shell for it :D

Hows the throttle feel, is it very heavy? If once its been sitting overnight it wants to idle right, and the first blip of the throttle it rev's higher, sounds like the throttle cable could be sticking, or the carby itself. Give it a really good soak down with carby cleaner and see what happens. Apart from the choke issues previously explained, the other thing that it could be is the return spring for the carb. Hope this helps.

You'll find the turbo sportivo's won't have there own listing on any parts database apart from toyota's. The clutch will probably be the same as any 7AFE, same flywheel, as the turbo gear is just a bolt on. Just get any exedy heavy duty and you'll be laughing, use a 100kw 4age clutch if think the HD 7AFE clutch might have a weak pressure plate, call exedy they'll know the deal, fairly certain the 7AFE runs a 212mm clutch. The average parts interpreter these days don't have a clue :D I'd be asking about the cost of $1200, seems a bit overpriced if he's just replacing the clutch pivot, or did it snap off, and he can't replace it and needs to swap the box or bellhousing.

The 1UZFE is probably a better motor, from most accounts, has 32 valves, later models have VVTI, and can take boost. Early soarer non VVTI ones generally cost around $1000 from the importers, or $1500-1800 for a half cut, VVTI you'll be spending probably 2-3 times that. The reason that motor is exxy is the fact that it's been worked, big cam and forged pistons. They're still an old motor though, 2V, OHC. Will be torquey as hell, but probably won't compare to a 1UZ at full song. If you're putting it in a small car the 3.4L might be the best way to go for legalities, but the 1UZ is a superior motor.

That looks like a knock sensor. What motor is it? a 4AGE. Might be worth resealing any rubber gaskets nearby with some blue goo. Looks pretty minor though.

Yeah, 4age head will bolt up, not sure about the manifolds swapping though. The dish size in a 4AFE piston is much the same as a 4AGZE, so you'll end up in the right range of compression for forced induction.

I half agree with you, if you're talking about a boosted car or something with some capacity and torque. But if this is for a 1.3 or a 1.6L motor, with a decent rev range, it's going to amplify you're torque, because you're in a marginally lower ratio than normal, whatever gear your in. Littlered's blacktop going from 4.1 to 4.55 ratio was something to behold, totally transformed the car.

Been done a fair few times, here's one on our club. Trevs twin carb AE71

So are you gonna get this car working on the current motor with a small turbo? Seems a waste to buy the thing only to use it to dummy fit and then start building another motor. You're only a couple of manifolds and a turbo away from having a car that drives if you go down that route, you could even run the stock GZE ecu to start with. Please tell me you can understand why people were trying to push this idea on you about 4 months ago? Might be worth letting go of your pride for a while, people weren't telling you what to do, they were giving you advice after being forum whore's for 5 years seeing many projects finish and fail. Just think, you could have a car that can be driven in a month if you want.

What a little weapon, this thing would haul ass, gotta get some vids! :dance: I hope it runs well for a while, the only bad thing I've heard about the 100kw piston with boost is due is the ring gland design. They have an extra groove for oiling purposes behind the rings which makes a weak point. Keep the boost low and it'll run for ages, just don't get tempted to wind it up too much, someone I know wound there's to 16psi and it lasted 1 hard launch :lmao: Definitely get a copy of your map asap, haltech, though all reports are that they're great to tune, are prone to resetting themselves and wiping their tune.

If its off a diesel it probably won't be a W55, but look the same and have the same pattern. It'll have much shorter ratio's and it'll be a G52 or a G54.

Tighe cams is a good mob that alot of people deal with. They'll weld to your existing cams and regrind, or supply billet's too. Heaps of range, they'll tailor a cam to your needs, for similar money as a HKS item.

Welcome to the club, I've gotta say, wow! What a sweet collection of toyota's, well done. That dish on the old RX30 look sweet :dance:

Blacktop ECU's have a crazy agressive knock sensor too. If its unplugged or damaged it'll retard the timing as you try to rev it out. Have you tried a putting a timing light on it as you rev it, is it retarding at the point where it doesn't make power?

Sounds like you may have found your problem. I've seen similar problems with dead TPS units. Use a multi meter to test if you're getting a smooth reading from the TPS. They're a linear variable resistance unit, if the resistance jumps up and down as you move the throttle, its broken. It should be a nice smooth variance.

I don't think you understood my point about woolies. It's about the money you spend going to someone who lives up the road from you, not to shareholders and CEO's. Woolworths probably won't notice a dent in there sales, but the impact to small business if you take the turn away from woolies for your meat and veg is going to be a positive thing for the community.

Its not the worst idea I've heard, but doing engine conversions, just because they are cheap doesn't always lead to a good finished product. Engine swaps are never 100% straight forward, there's teething problems no matter what path you go down. I'd recommend that you get your suspension and brakes in shape, and learn how to drive the car the edge. Meanwhile, save your penny's for an engine that suits your car a little better, and possibly a little more modern than 1970's technology.