beerhead

Yeah, nice score, gonna be awesome. Anyone who's got a FWD bigport who wants twin carbs should think about getting a RWD redline manifold and swapping it with trev, this one is tilted to stop FWD's fowling on the firewall

A few months ago, with enough money and the right engineer it could have been possible. Under the changes there's heavier restrictions for vehicles under 1 tonne, which makes these kind of swaps illegal from what I've been told.

AE86 struts fit into a KE55 if you use Corona steering arms. You can use the AE86 arms, but I'd advise against it as they don't have steering stops to stop you from rubbing your tyres on the inner guard, but if you have a welder... While you're there, score some corona LCA's too, definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

If you just want to get it running you should be able to find a 4K at a reasonable price, they're not too hard to come by, $200 or so. Or buy a rust bucket KE70 with a sweet motor. It'd be the quickest option.

Ah crap, thats awful to hear, hope your ok.

Sure will, the KE70 / AE71 steering arms have the same stud pattern at the bottom end. You'll need to fit the KE55 strut tops to make it bolt in up top, as the 3 bolts have a different pattern.

For extra amusement pipe up a cream bulb dispenser to the intake and put methanol in the windscreen wiper bottle down there too :D easy 20kw :P

Nothing like the smell of progress. Looks like a nice complete engine, full harness too, handy. BTW, There were some cheap 4A - KE engine mounts on trademe.co.nz last time I had a look if your looking for an easy route there.

I'm not going to bother to explain this anymore, I'm speaking to deaf ears, if you don't want to fix the problem dismiss what I say. I bet you a 6 pack if you got some early KE corolla camber tops your T3 logo will be around the right way and your Caster problem would vanish. AE86 that KE70 that, I don't really give a crap about model codes, your not using standard parts, you'll find that overlaps for models between countries are unrelated, hence you've got a part that is wrong. Late model KE70's in Australia have a slanted front the same as an AE71.

I'm not defending T3 if they're not willing to swap the product to a KE70 part, so don't make assumptions :D I'm trying to work out for everyones benefit what's going on here. The image you provided is exactly what happens to an Australian delivered KE70 if you fit AE86 camber tops. No KE strut top I've seen will fit both ways without ruining the cars geometry. I'm nearly 100% sure, in Australia anyhow, the AE71 and KE70 were not the same as the AE86 strut top. Now you've got me wondering if the Cusco camber top on an AE86 ruins caster :P What clearance would you change by changing the mount point for the shock? Front to back of the wheel?

You're fitting these camber tops to your KE70 shell, right? They're designed for an AE86, that's why you need to swap them left to right side. The oldest trick in the book on an AE86 is to get AE71 strut top to get a massive increase caster. Fit AE86 strut tops to your car and you'll ruin the geometry if you don't invert the studs and fully re-assemble the unit. Techno toy tuning sell camber tops for AE86 and AE71 or KE70 chassis. If your going to go bad mouthing a part, make sure you've actually bought the one designed for your car. I haven't heard anything but good things about the quality and durability of the T3 product line.

I reakon the trick would be to get hold of a 4AGZE manifold. Make an adapter plate for it. Bad pic, but you get what I mean

Enough talk, progress pics speak a 1000 words. I hope Micks's been busy.

Hey, I'll be there :) Much closer to home than Aspley.

I find if i eat lots of carrots I can see in the dark :wink:

I'm really only a youngen too, about 26. 1/4 mile passes are great fun if its your thing. 1 tonne cars with over 200hp are nuts, not for the faint hearted, and yours is even lighter! With low weight, out goes some stability and down force. We're not here trying to break your enthusiasm, just want to make sure you know what your getting yourself into. I agree that time doesn't really exist and judging peoples ability based on age is probably a bad move. But I know what I was like till I had a decent smash to settle me down, I was going to be a temporary citizen. If this was from day one, a weekend trailer machine, fully stripped, full cage, tubbed and pushing 500hp, whooping ass down the drags I'd be impressed. I just don't think cars with this power should be street driven for shits and giggles blowing away skylines and commonwhores, you're better than them anyway!

In tank 4AGE pump is the same part number as GZE so I've read, so you won't have any troubles there. Most efi pumps flow alot more than the power specification of the vehicle there in.

Dyno time is only intented to tune a vehicle, the amount of random HP quotes getting thrown around this tread is ridiculous, so I should join the bandwagon :hmm: There's an SR20det powered KE30 on the forum that just went from around 240 to 280whp, and now doesn't get much traction. The scary part is no-where in your thread have you talked or even asked about brake upgrades, I suppose they'll only slow you down, I must be getting old or something. Jordan is giving you some really really good advice on the turbo too, smallest possible for the power goal will leave you with a much faster car. Fast isn't rated in HP, its rated in the smile you get from a well designed motor that has a power band that is accessible and is able to transfer most of it to the ground. I've seen some interesting vids of dead stock Silvia's lined up, no suspension mods, but with with Standard power - 400bhp. Guess what, the standard car ran the best 1/4 time, peaky wheelspin down the strip is terrible for times. 250bhp, is around 250 flywheel KW, is heaps for a 750kg car. That's enough power to twist a KE20 end to end under torque. You need seam welding and a cage. I hope you know some old school leaf sprung drag racers, you're going to need heaps of work to get the car to bite. Get some suspension, brakes and a cheap little turbo and learn to drive this thing before trying to break records. FFS if you're profile is right you're not even 20 yet and think you need a 10 second car :wink:

Buying off the shelf king springs is bad news if you want a performance upgrade, they're only intended to be standard weight, reduced height springs, try and drive the car like a race car and they're not going to last. For only about $180 a pair you can get a custom wound kings, any rate, any free height you want.

True, run a w58 +Dellow kit and you'd get it in there without firewall mods. You just need an oversize shifter hole or a low mount custom gearbox cross member. R154 is a nicer box, but the install is a big job. Such a light car shouldn't be eating W boxes for lunch too easy anyway.

Nice effort on the build so far. What computer are you planning on running on the setup? Gearbox's break not under power, but on sudden change of torque, which you'll have oodles of, that GT30's not going to spool fast on a 1.6, they don't come on till 3000rpm on a 2L. If you have a search in the rides and projects you'll find a FWD 16V with the same turbo, and it was laggy. To have a fast car, you don't want the biggest valves, biggest turbo and biggest cams, you want the smallest of each for your power goals. I'm planning on using the same size turbo on a 2.6.

Yep, I've seen lots of T pieces in the block at the oil pressure sender. Just make sure its stainless or mild steel, brass is no good. Every bigport I've had has had a return in the sump. They don't fit 20V bottom ends like I was told either. If the turbo's water cooled too, just T the feed /return for the heater.

Had the privilege of seeing this thing in the flesh on the weekend, what a little pig. Probably some of the best looking 1980's paint left on a car. Will be pretty crazy when you get a sweet tune on it, its another bigport that will eat 20V's and GZE's for lunch. Still kicking myself I didn't get a bigport and be happy with it. Keep us posted on the engine mods, gotta love an evil atmo 16V :o

Yeah easy, but highly restrictive. I always thought the idea of twin charging was to be able to benefit from both the positives that most supercharger and turbo charger owners love to pledge as why their kind of boost is better - instant boost of the S/C and and top end power without mechanical load on the crank of the turbocharger. If you're not turning off the supercharger once the turbo is on boost, your wasting power, without a bypass valve the most your motor can make is governed by how well the super charger deals with being force fed. Also, if you know anything about Toyota roots superchargers you'd know they're Teflon coated. Hot air straight out of a turbo onto the blades would cook off the Teflon in no time.

FYI- I went over the Hyundai's a while back, excel water pipes match a KE70, Lantra match a 4AGE/4AC install. Ebay Lantra radiator