beerhead

Where exactly are you plugging it in? Any pix?

Looks like a cheap and easy way to get the job done. I was thinking about using a hot wire AFM connected to a multimeter. But with shut throttles I guess the MAP sensor would do a better job.

I second that, we'll fly over, stab you, and export your car to Australia if you molest this classic with a kit like that :lolcry: Sweet ride though mate.

were those flames out the inlet? Looks like you need to get your base timing right.

Nice work trev. You could always drill a hole in the floor for the pump and go flinstone style :(

You might need to post some pics so we can help you through this if you're still having no luck. It may be on points if all you needed to wire was the coil and the starter. Is there a little silver box attached to the coil still?

If you're running carbs, what ignition module are you using to make the engine fire? The factory igniter can't do the job required without the ecu.

Sweet, those Gen3's boost so early in stock form, will definitely keep you up with the big boys for speed and wheelspin. What gearbox you thinking of running? If you haven't heard, you can get an R153 housing from a 4x4 prado 5VZ to use a supra R154 if you wanted something stronger than a W58.

Yes, you need every plug, bigport ecu plugs are the same as SV21 3sfe, easily had at the wreckers. Smallport is the same deal but with a different style of plug.

Tune by screwdriver, gotta love it! Looking good mate, will be a great little daily. Just thought I'd let you know a trick for seized injectors. Have someone cranking the motor and hit them with a brass punch and hammer, rough, but it works :yes:

I'd argue that legally any speedo is only within 10km/h and that the equipment isn't 2km/hr accurate. Got mine first time, nothing like driving cars and tractors from the age of 10 to make it easy.

Bahaha!! What an idiot. the air inside the intercooler is the same temp as the air outside the cooler. Intercoolers work because after boosting the air the is hotter and the temperature differential is lost to ambient. :yes:

Yes they definitely fit. I used to run them on my old 4K.

Yep you're right, the only close match clutch I found that has the right spline is an 84 Honda accord, correct spline, but only 190mm plate. I wonder if the T50 and K50 input shafts and snout are interchangeable, probably not. Sorry for hijack, but how many mm are the 7K flywheels, I thought they were 212?

Nice to see some more 7K's in rolla's must pull of the line very well, oodles of torque in a small car. If you need a clutch again I'd try a 212mm 4AGE clutch plate, K50's have the same spline as a T50. Likewise for 200mm 5K flywheels, use a 200mm 4AC or 4AGE clutch. I wonder if the pressure plate even bolts up too.

I doubt you'll have much tuning it with a screwdriver :lolcry: But the last owner probably had the jets and chokes set right at some point. What's the deal with the ignition? Doesn't look like a standard dizzy, is it on points with mech or vaccum advance, or is it on an electronic module?

The same laws you're talking about even apply to 4V motor's in high power, boosted drag cars. Past 1500hp, the turbulence is such that you make more power using 2 Valve cross flow heads. At 20,000rpm I'm sure the turbulence is an issue. But for any street car that'll probably never see 10,000rpm what's the point of getting so dramatic in trying to replicate everything to F1 standards, where's the pneumatic valve springs? where's the billet block to get a rod ratio above 2? Stand off injectors on a street car :( At the end of the day you need to take thing's as they are rather than in a theoretical nightmare of over evaluation. If a motor makes good power and puts a smile on your face, its all good :o

I'm with teddy on this one, the 1GZ-FE is becoming more affordable, found a halfcut in japan for $2500 I think you should finish it off like a ferarri :(

Interesting, just had a look at those Audi's, seem like an interesting engine. I don't agree that that a 5 valve engine is an inferior engine, it's just a different approach that costs more to manufacture for negligible power gains in factory terms, hence they never got fully developed. The more valves you have the smaller the valve and the less spring tension you need to seal it properly at high rpm and boost. Which means more power :( The fastest 1.6L turbo FWD drag car in Australia has a 20V blacktop head, and it keeps up with 2.2L vtec 4 valve motors, given the 600cc difference, I think the word inferior - "Of low or lower quality" is a little bit of a hike.

20V is the short name for SR20VE, The V isn't the number of valves. The only other 5 valve head I've heard of on a car are on an old Ferarri V12 from the 80's. Most of the other 20V motors I've heard of and researched ended up being 5 cylinder 4 valve motors.

Looking good. The auto computer will do the job, fairly sure I've been told in the past they have a separate controller for the auto. Make sure you pull off the sump and get rid of all the slime in the bottom, I've been told its the biggest killer of import motors from Japan. Most will get only 1 oil change from new, no wonder so many have scores in the bearings.

The beast :) Comfy seats and brakes that make your face fall off!

That's nice power from a blacktop toyocharged, sweet as, is that on factory cams? Must have a motec :hmm: Oops I forgot shim under bucket conversion $800 :D

To make a 16V make top end power like a 20V, and that beautiful bark of open quad's you need cams - $700, valve springs $200, re-shim $300, quad adapter plate $250, quads $200, porting $up to you. Geez you've just spent more than the cost of a blacktop :D I've been in some car's running 16 valves that go like the clappers, but the 20V does it out of the box. I think bad tuners have given them a name.

You can get the TRD LSD's pretty easy from yahoo auctions japan. I've seen atleast 6 in the last 4 months. There's 2 atm too, and 1 is brand new! Maybe I should score a few when I get some more parts over, I wonder if they'd sell. KP61 LSD KP61 LSD new