greenmac80

neat good work mate!

will check the wiring. the diagrams will be wrong.. i need EARLY 30 diagrams.

i was thinking the stalk but a mate made a good point. if the connections were dirty then i wouldn't be getting the distinct clicks from the relay. the relay clicks twice once for parkers then again for low beams. but no low beams come on. the clicks indicate the stalk is fine. well i think.

So my KE30 is a 1975. has the external regulator for the alternator and what not. since i've had the car the low beams have not worked. the lamps and globes have been replaced. there is box on the passenger side that the headlight wires appear to run into so i would think that its the relay. 6pins! but on the box it says tail relay? my question is... has anyone else had this issue and how did you go about fixing it? ie. replace the relay with another one? buy a new one? (if yes then where and how much) or for someone cluey with electrics did you split the relay up? and have a couple of seperate ones to control tail lamps and headlights? cheers, Luc

yeah tmoz maybe. its f all. like i said no dents and the main scratches will buff out. jst lucky its not worse. it happened at the beginning of the night. by the end of the night i was a lot more confident and had learned how the car feels.

yeah we sure did. went thru gorge rd twice. the corkscrew. norton summit rd and magill rd twice.

i'd be checking the sender unit. if you changed the motor then perhaps its the wrong sender for the guage in your dash!

so new alternator is installed. fingers crossed it'll work... will find out tomorrow. i went from a early ke30 externally regulated one to a near Brand new KE70 internally regulated one. also fixed my fuel pump oil leak. turns out it eas the plastic spacer that was the problem. had 4 cracks in it. so i got a new one with 2 new gaskets. $17 freaking dollars.! and to add to last nights post... on one of the corners i got a bit loose and ended up tagging the barrier.... 2 big scrape marks down my passenger door but no dents. also the front fender is a bit scratched,, the scrape marks should buff out.. but if they don't then it'll be a good excuse to paint it again. except this time i'll do the body work properly.

so jst been out and wasted half a tank in the hills. learning the limit of my setup and feeling what can be done to make it better. on the upside i was with mates. a zze123 corolla sportivo. and a proton GTI. i was chasing and the little old 30 with its whole 50hp (if i'm lucky) kept up. i didn't have to slow down as much for the corners making it possible to keep up on the striaghts. very happy. i feel that the main thing to change will be the wheels and rubber. bigger wider wheels with less sidewall. more camber. an adjustable swaybar may help.. the car stays relatively flat but could be better... perhaps a rear swaybar? and lastly the strut brace i'm making i feel should leave a pretty dramatic effect on the car. handles great but could be better.. lol. i don't think cars ever finish!

fckn LOL man,.. jst keep at it. nothing is free but once done its well worth it.

yeah sorry i'm after the axle bearings.. lol.

ok so upon digging it seems that the numbers from that website are to suit t series or something else. none of the numbers are correct. back to searching. once the numbers are found they will be posted here for future reference.

well i have to organise time to see the machinist a mate knows and yeah... so in a couple of months i may have pics of a finished product.

killer. good to see another old girl revived.

yes but they are really only a track only thing. 2 of the studs end up mega clost to each other and theres jst not enough strength in em of everyday driving. i've seen reports of the studs shearing out. so what i've designed is a 2 piece thing.

pics or ban!

perhaps but there is no way of telling.. although the description is the same for every bearing... 'rear axle bearing' http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/cata...sal:0)&sv=0 there's the link.

i've got sigma LCA's in already. the struts are mx62 cressida hence the camber problem and the sigma LCA's only giving me -.5 the tyres are brand new maxxis MA P1 VIP's a mid range tyre. corona wheels with 185 60 r 14 tyres. i have some 16 x 7 inch rims but they are 5 stud... holden VE steelies brand new. i've designed a wheel spacer/adaptor but i have yet to take the idea to a machinist. they will help with a nice thin tyre.

yeah all good ideas... camber will be one i can change once i go coilovers. i do have neg .5 ATM. i really want neg 2-3 and the touch of a few bolts. it'll happen just time. it not really an issue but its just something i would like to work on. the car still goes around corners like a champ. oversteer is a bit easier to deal with. less right foot aye? i could try that lol.... but its only a k motor so the qucker you can go around corners the better cos on the straights ya got nothing!! hehe. ah diff is an opne wheeler. bugger lockers they just feel shit.

nah thats what i'm saying every brand has 3 different part numbers for the same thing, so i have no idea which part number in any of the brands would work

well i've found part numbers for brands such as Timken and stuff but there a 3 different part numbers for the same car same year etc. i don't know what to go with.

just went for a smash through the hills and f#$k me! in the wet this thing grips like all hell. even when traction went its super easy to get back. the car just want to grip. the only thing is that its a bit understeery. not sure how to improve on this so i'll have to chat to my friendly local suspension man.

general part number i would think. would be cheaper i assume to get the bearings from cbc or something.

lol for me its gonna cost the parts at trade prices and that it.

i'm not sure what it is. 4.11 i think well it was out of a manual wagon. let me ask you this... if you have a shagged shocker. do you just swap it for another secondhand one? think the same about bushes... brake pads... MC.... brake lines... etc. etc.. sure i could buy and swap a reasonable one in.. but then within a short time i could be back to square one. so whats the point? if something is buggered fix it with new or reco. you're only going to save yourself money in the long run. ^^ that atitude is also part of the reason why when you get one of these old girls most things are shagged and your left to pick up the pieces.