parrot

Redwarf put me onto the replacement air filter element to use which is a Ryco A337. Nothing else comes remotely close. It is also available as a direct replacement in K & N E2970. This filter is 47mm high compared to the KE15 55mm hence the foam packing on yours. Looks like the seats have been previously retrimmed. Underneath you should find the original holes for the factory headrests, with luck. Dave (savvanagt on ebay) has a set but wants $300 for them. A cheaper option that also fit are Mark 1 VW Golf headrests. If you are going to retrim anyway, could do these at the same time.

I'm excited! How excited must you be!

Fantastic news! I know you have been looking for a while, so welcome to the club!

Agree with Dave. There are simple electronic ignition kits available that will do away with the vagaries of points and dwell. By far the best modification you are likely to make with regards to starting ease, driveability and economy. This is where I got mine from. http://www.simonbbc.com/ If you do buy, make sure you differentiate between whether you have a Bosch or Nippondenso distributor

If your engine is stock, just use standard ULP. It isn't worth the extra cost to go 95 or 98. The KE30 should be super economical. Spend the extra cash on maintaining the ignition system and tappets and you can't go wrong My recollection is that K heads were safe to use with ULP without risk of valve seat recession related to the absence of lead.

As I am sure you are aware, the TRD Group A manual says to polish the joggles (the areas around the deshrouding) until they yield smooth reflective surfaces, and not to polish the other portions (the areas not bounded by the deshroud). Looks like you have polished the whole chamber? Any thoughts on TRD's thinking there?

I ended up getting the Osram nightbreakers off a guy in Germany via Ebay. It turned out the globes were H4's, and I was able to get two pair posted out for a total of $56. They have them in a range of globe types. Around town after a week they are as least as good as the originals, which were also Osram branded. Undoubtedly, the depth and spread of beam on high beam out in the country is vastly improved. I'll be popping them in my AE86 also, plus will plan to do the same on my other cars once running which both have H4 conversions. Well worth considering

Parts are sort of available if you look hard enough, especially US ebay. you just have to keep hunting and grab stuff when you see it for a rainy day. Auto Surplus in Mitcham are also a great source for obscure parts (and Toyota Car Club Vic sponsors!) if you need fine thread and can't find them, there are replacement coarse thread tie rods available which means you can use the easier to find coarse thread ends. I wouldnt be mucking around with refurbing them. I had a bad accident years back when a tierod end collapsed, and there was a guy on TCCAV just the other day who had one co;;apse in a2005ish Prado

Physically the dimensions and mounting points will be the same. I can check if you really need it confirmed. The difference will be the hose outlets. The top hose is located differently from TE27 to KE25. Can't remember where the bottom hose is. Surely you can get your current radiator recored locally?

Speaking of which, the Moorabin Air Museum is trying to raise funds to purchase an original CAC Mustang. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Moorabbin-Air-Museum/218489001498015 I reckon you should pledge some of your $50K to that http://www.pozible.com/project/195714

Well it really depends on how much you plan to do yourself, or how much money you can throw at it. 2T's did come in this body (TE37) from the factory in some markets and it's a good upgrade already. Unless you have lots of cash or can do things yourself, I would be rebuilding it which wouldn't cost a whole lot. Can easily increase the capacity of the engine if you want more grunt. Any sort of engine transplant is going to cost surprising amounts of money and require lots of assorted other parts etc In the USA they go crazy with 2T's and 3T's http://www.3tcgarage.com/

It was discussed only recently

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Valve-Lifter-ITM-056-5003-fits-71-79-Toyota-Corolla-1-6L-L4-/121427327201?fits=Year%3A1978%7CModel%3ACorolla&hash=item1c45a1f8e1&vxp=mtr Obviously check the fitment in more detail, but I would look to the US for things like this

If it was running before and the knock pins are wrong, you're in trouble! The Dizzy is pointing at No. 1 when No.1 cylinder is on compression stroke? i.e. not 180 degrees out? There should be an earth strap from passenger side engine mount bolt to chassis rail, plus another from the bolt hole at the rear of the exhaust side of the head to the firewall.

If you go for struts other than KE20, you can't use the KE20 steering arms as the bolt spacing is out by about 5 mm. You can source TE27 steering knuckles which have the right bolt spacing, but are reasonably hard to find and usually pricey (usually more than $200 via yahoo Japan). You might get lucky buying them from the US but people have woken up to that and source and sell them on. You can use AE86 power steer arms (also not exactly cheap) as above but the KE20 arm balljoint pin has a smaller diameter and requires bushing. I think you can get these from T3. Personally I wouldn't follow that path. If you use struts from something else, consider that the king pin inclination may not suit, i.e. give you unwanted positive camber (as happens with AE86 struts). To dial this out you use adjustable strut tops, but there isn't a lot of room in a KE20 strut tower to move the struts in, thus you are obligated to use coil overs. etc etc. A TA22 swaybar should bolt in and clear your sump. You may want to rethink your rear swaybar, or make it adjustable.

I'm pretty sure the 3 prefix signifies a Corona chassis

Have you put it on TDC and checked the cam timing marks are in the right place? It's quick and easy. From the description you gave, cam timing sounds more probable and could explain your compression figures. And put a new battery in it.

Fenders are same across for KE25 & KE20 BUT, there are two different types, early fenders and late fenders. You need to check whether the ones you have are the same as those in the shop. They are not interchangeable

If he didn't fix it, he might have carked it by now

The smell is normal. But why are you reversing hard up an unsealed road? If the cat con is not up to operating temp i.e. you are reversing up a driveway in the morning, then it won't yet be functioning properly, and could explain why you are getting the odour. Either that, or you had eggs for breakfast.

Extractors are often fairly fragile also. You may wish to consider finding a spare standard exhaust manifold and getting that cleaned up internally (as well as your inlet manifold). Also match port both the inlet and exhaust manifold to your head.

The odd TE27 I see on yahoo or via iron chef seem to go in the vicinity of high teens. That's in Japan obviously. Landed would be considerably more. Difficult to know the condition of these though, and often modified in some ways or missing key trim which would impact on the market being discussed.

Well there is your first problem. The current diff/axles will never cope with the power output you propose. Don't make the mistake of letting your wheels dictate your transaxle choices. it won't work, and will cost more in the medium term. Even a T series will be fairly marginal depending on how you drive it, considering they were originally fitted to TA22 onward Celica's and 1600cc Corolla's in some markets. You could try and locate a complete disc brake T series rear from a Euro AE86 but these are usually very expensive. Plus you will need to convert the replacement diff from coil spring to leaf spring, modify the tail shaft to suit, narrow it etc etc. So now you think, oh well, I'll just keep it drum brake. But you are still left with the inadequacy of your current rear end.

Years back on aeu86.org there was talk of using Nissan Primera discs and Golf 4 calipers on T series drum brake rears as a conversion. Depends rather on whether you have upgraded your rear axle already, presumably yes. And to what. Also on your location with respect to ease in sourcing parts.