parrot

It hasn't moved in 15 years. Have a really good look over the whole car. At a minimum, change all the oils (diff, gearbox,steering box & engine) and filters, overhaul all the brake cylinders/calipers and flush out all old hydraulic fluid which is an easy job. Flush out the cooling system and replace the hoses. Remove and clean out the fuel tank. Replace the wheel bearings. Put new tyres on it. Inspect closely the tierods and balljoints and bushes. Don't tighten the steering box to compensate or you will screw it. That will undoubtedly throw up a few more jobs. Try and fix the guard. Good ones are hard to find, and that dent doesn't look to bad.

Problem is that reg authorities will only accept what was delivered in Australia, so the fact 1600 cc 2T's were fitted in overseas models won't help you

Pretty simple really. When new, your car had a 3K installed. At some stage someone replaced it with a 4K and had an engine number change done. Then your mate put a 7K in it which hasn't been notified to your registration authority. KE3x's only ever had 3K's fitted in Australia, whereas the KE5x had a 4K. You MAY have some difficulty arguing the KE3x & KE5x chassis are the same at reg authority level. Not sure why everyone is so terrified of going to an engineer. Your car will be safer and legal. Your best bet is to have a good look at what the actual rules are, should be fully documented on the reg website. If you are unsure, ring up the engineering branch and ask.

My bible. Only annoying thing was that once it got hosted, some arsehole in the US stated selling it on ebay, complete with my annotations. The wiring diagrams will of course have some differences, but the general principles are the same. Sorry Luke, back to the Blue Thing.....

The speed sensor is within the cluster so as long as you are using a twin cam dash loom, it should be wired. Have you looked at the diagnosis manual & followed the Diagnostic Code charts? It's hosted over on AEU86.org http://files.aeu86.org/manuals/4age-diagnosis_manual-parrot.pdf These enable you to methodically eliminate issues. It was published in 1993, and although it focuses on RWD Corolla's and celica's with TVIS 4AGE's. it should also apply generally. Code 9 is an open or short circuit in the vehicle speed sensor circuitry. In view of the fact that you have had these off an on cars, also well worth considering Chart 3 on page 4-8 I have also had serious issues previously and followed a logical process of elimination and parts replacement which got me absolutely nowhere. Eventually I worked methodically through this manual, and was able to determine I had a wiring issue (of my own doing during earlier modifications). Otherwise I would still be looking.

Looking back, answer to line 1 appears to be yes.

I'm confused. You have replaced all the looms for the twin cam looms? Dash, engine and underbonnet ancillaries? You have a twincam instrument cluster? Have you had to modify or adapt anything in your current setup? It really should just work without all these codes. Have you installed the TPS properly? There are a couple of different types. I can't see why it would throw a TPS code unless it isn't the correct one, or you haven't set it up properly, which I'm sure you have.

Have a really good look at the structure of the front strut tower of your car, then have a really good look at the structure around the top of the rear shock absorber mount and make your own mind up as to whether or not it is a good idea.

Not in Australia unfortunately. Car and Car Conversions is a British mag. And they note on page 4 that TTE's generosity didn't extend that far. The car was to be sold with a 2TG I assume. But who knows what some people have stashed away in their sheds.

Hi Rob It will be a 151E. Nice to have friends at TTE!

In my professional life, we spend a lot of time looking at what other people are doing in Australia and overseas, critically evaluating practice (including ours), and looking to improve how we do things. Part of this process is presenting research published in peer reviewed journals in what we call "Journal Club". But professional life is moderately boring, whereas cars are not! I'm fortunate to have built up a good collection of Car mags mainly from 1965 to 1975, plus a smattering of later stuff related to my AE86. For a while now I've been thinking I should post up some interesting articles, so here goes. May not always be Corolla related, but what I've enjoyed. Nice cars, development of ideas (e.g. initial resistance in the motoring media to advent of laminated screens etc.) Hopefully you will enjoy them. Times were different back then, when things such as the advent of the first basic function calculator and digital clocks were amazing advances. And there was no internet. And so to post No.1. Cars and Car Conversions from Oct 1977: TE37 of sorts. It was a moderately developed car with an amazing engine thanks to some well connected contacts. Group 4 cars were allowed substantial freedoms, of which this car had few. For context you need to understand that at this time in English rallying, the Escort made up about 95% of entries in local and national events, so everything is compared to an Escort, and lessons learned on Escorts are applied to other cars. CCC TE37 1.pdf CCC TE37 2.pdf CCC TE37 3.pdf CCC TE37 4.pdf

Fraid not. If you look at the speedo/tacho cluster round wiring plug, it is a smaller 6 pin version of that. I'm sure you will work something out. You can cannabalise the terminals from a KE2x dash cluster, or find a modern terminal equivalent. But the plug isn't something you can get off the shelf.

There was a discussion about your exact issue just recently http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/71689-master-brake-cylinder-ke10/

Obscure post of the month If you have bought a 3 Gauge TE27 centre cluster to retrofit into your KE2x and need the plug, it is identical to that found in the dash wiring of a 1975 MS85 Crown. I realise MS85's don't exactly grow on trees, but neither do TE27's

Yeah I was talking to a very experienced panel beater who runs his own business recently and he was suggesting 1.8 - 2.0 nozzle at about 35 - 40 psi at about 50:50 mix for acrylic. He was saying the same thing about runs. My first go I went about 50psi and about 60/40 paint/thinners, the latter as recommended by the paint shop. But it came out too dry. I'll obviously never do 2 pack. Yours has come up real well, so I might go with your suggestions

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-K50-5-SPEED-TRANSMISSION-REPAIR-MANUAL-1976-/151731436167?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2353e5fa87

You realise GTHO falcons had 6 inch rims. And when they went to an optional 7 inch rim later on, they only had 185 tyres. So after shelling out a shitload of money on rims & tyres, what you propose will completely destroy any semblance of handling. Before you get defected, the car will be a dangerous pig to drive. I wouldn't go over 6 inches on a road driven Corolla Edit: And the guy at Bob Jane wants his arse kicked for suggesting anything like that.

Hey doogs. What size nozzle, pressure and ratio do you spray at?

If it's for a race motor, get it recurved for mechanical advance only to suit the characteristics of your motor. A race motor doesn't use vacuum advance.

Your answer lies in my post on the previous page. Simple as that

I have no idea what you are talking about, but it's awesome!

Whatever setup you use has to have access to coolant within the circulating cooling system on the radiator side of the thermostat at all times. The outlet Tor has listed would be the easiest and most reliable way of doing it. At $57.50 plus post, you would be hard pressed to find a cheaper option also.

I can help you out with part numbers no problem outer coarse 45047-19015 aftermarket TE426 fine 45047-19016 aftermarket TE534 inner coarse 45046-19035 aftermarket TE425 fine 45046-19036 aftermarket TE535 Here is a photo of an outer tie rod fine vs coarse. if your really keen you can count the threads, but should be able to tell by sight. It was coarse thread up to Feb 1969, but hard to know what you have on basis of date. Wheel bearings Inner 90368-26027 outer 90368-17017 seal 90311-40108 Recently there was a guy in Japan selling the control arm bushes, but they aren't listed currently. Never seen them for sale other than in Japan except for a set brought in from Japan by a member here. If they come up again I'll send on the link.

Another cheap option if the size works, is to grab a top thermostat housing off something 80's onward at the wreckers with a built in temperature switch to trigger fans. I've got an AE82 top on a AE86 bottom on my 4AGE. I remember at the time looking at Camry's and what not, and there was some variation in size and angles. If one fits on K housing, very cheap, and almost factory.

What happens when you turn the heater off?