parrot

If the engine loom came from an AE86, the plug you are asking about is for the washers & aircon, but the wiring colours are all wrong. As you say, the 14 pin ECU plug is part of the separate body loom with the functions as laid out on pg 1-12 of the diagnosis manual. I've got a complete AE86 GT loom in a box. I'll pull it out later and take some pictures. Has someone modified this for something else and you are trying to decipher it?

Get it rebuilt!

Dropbear?

So I managed to overheat my mini compressor recently with the result that I now have no compression! On strip down, it appears I have glazed the bore and worn the ring. I was thinking I could hone it with my hydraulic cylinder hone, but not to sure how to sort the carbon ring. Any ideas?

Excuse my ignorance Banjo. By this, "The caliper mounts on the RA65 strut had 100mm centres" do you mean the hole in the caliper mount that fits over the stub?

As mentioned, if you solve your water loss then properly bleed the cooling system, you may find it disappears

Fix the leak which is possibly the head gasket as mentioned. Possibly water leaking into the cylinders is affecting starting charge. If you have not bled the cooling system properly, the ECU water temp sensor can result in high idle.

AW11 rears are too wide diameter wise. I see Terry from Road & Track (terryo on this forum) has spent some time looking at the AW11 front option for customer cars he has worked on. Ask him. Do be aware you may run into issues with length requiring appropriate spacing and possibly with stroke.

That was really fascinating. Should be compulsory viewing for anyone trying to stuff massive tyres or stupid offset/spacers under their guards etc. The tyre deflection was quite striking, and the compromise of camber. So what are the ideas you have come up with?

Yes, a little up down is OK

Same, ran without for many years in my 4AGE AE86 I did recently see something that explained why they were there, which wasn't simply rigidity, that put the thought in my mind that I should put them on but I can't recall what it was or where I saw it.....

Yes, but make sure the 4K distributor is in good general condition and has no play in the shaft. Edit: I should add, in Australia we had both Denso and Bosch distributors which are completely different. You will need to source the correct unit to suit whatever brand of distributor you have. Just ask powerspark, he will know which one to use.

I delved a bit deeper last night and discovered it's a luggage compartment switch which told me nothing, but I did find it had some relation to another switch on the drivers side. I assumed it was a glorified light switch and gave up. In trying to remember what it was called just now, I did a quick google and have discovered a post on toyotaownersclub by ShaneD!: "That switch in the glove box is an override for the electronic boot release. You should have a switch near the bonnet release that releases the boot??? That switch in the glove box disables that boot release switch. The idea is that you can take you car for service and lock stuff in the boot so it can't be tampered with. Originally there was a service key supplied with the car brand new. The service would not open the boot or unlock the glove box. It only worked the ignition and the doors. I don't know how they were meant to check your spare after you did that???" So there you go. Can I be bothered installing it in one of my non electric boot release cars? I think not.

As Banjo states above; "The reason is that the PowerSpark replacement Hall Effect ignitor module, does not change the timing & advance/retard of the ignition, which is still a function of the centifugal bob weights in the base of the 5K distributor. The 5K engines were basically used in Toyota commercial vehicles & forklifts, where the requirement was very focused on torque, rather than outright power. As a result, a 5K dizzy in a Corolla is a bit sluggish." The 2K points dizzy will have an advance curve better suited to what you will be asking your car to do, as it already has the right bob weights within the body of the distributor.

Thanks anyway. This was an MS85 at the local pickle wreckers. The glovebox was open and it was sitting in a specific recess at the top of the glovebox. Definite factory switch, just an off and on. Had to cut it out of the loom as at the switch end it was factory soldered in

I think these are good value. BUT it will only work well if your existing distributor has good bearings. Same story with points obviously. If there is any play in the shaft, get that dealt with first. Advantage other than better starting and smoother running, is that you will be using the correct advance curve to suit your engine characteristics.

Slightly off topic........ Do you know what the rocker switch inside the glovebox is for?

Additionally, if readable, post up the part number on the sticker on each. Edit, the number will start with 19100-

I don't know. From the part book, all KE30 2 door seat covers are the same part number (except for the colour suffix) for the bottom section. Back sections are the same for KE30's irrespective of whether they are 2 or 4 doors. They came in black brown or ivory. KE35 part numbers are different again to the KE30's, noting that additionally there were DLX versions & SR versions for KE35 which also differ from each other. Unfortunately there isn't a separate part listing for just the cushion part without a cover. The part number differences may be simply due to different vinyl patterns. Sorry I tried!

The EFI tank looks identical to a carby tank on an AE86. There are a few baffles in the carby tank but yes, the EFI tank does additionally have the circular baffle around the intank pump pickup

You shouldn't be getting clean oil out through your PCV. There should be a deflector plate on the inside of the rocker cover to prevent oil being flung up from the rocker shaft and out through the PCV hole. If you can shine a light down the PCV hole and see the rockers, it's missing. All that should be coming out is scummy condensate.

They gunge up. If you have ever run an overflow bottle instead of the usual plumbing back into the intake so it gets burnt, you will see the oily water muck that it has to pass. They are readily available online via the usual channels or likely your local aftermarket parts retailer. Otherwise give it a long soak in some serious solvent. Edit: the metal ones that is.

Love the panorama! I would kill for a shed like that......

Fuel pressure at the pressure regulator at no vacuum should be 33 - 40 psi (2.3 2.8 kg/cm2; 226 - 275 kPa) - per the factory engine manual. Conversion psi to bar (.0689476) So that's under 3 bar at the regulator

Actually I think I used white spirit rather than thinners.