parrot

Same

And the insurance.........

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-COROLLA-3K-3KC-DOUBLE-ROW-TIMING-CHAIN-KIT-with-GEARS-NEW-/331584231981?hash=item4d33f5da2d:g:dKEAAOSwBLlVcTDR

I'd be replacing the timing chain and tensioner. Really should have done this when you did the crank, but not too hard to do with the engine in place.

I second that awesome! Shall watch with interest your efforts in getting it running better than ever.

Also if you are determined to source the inserts locally, I gather there is an active MR2 scene locally in the UK. You could try them (with usual warnings of buyer beware!). You might think it easy in Australia to source stuff - it isn't! Once I knew exactly the strut inserts I needed for the AE86 I sourced them from the US and saved $150

When I answered on your other thread a while back, googling around there was some reference I believe to an earlier model having a smaller diameter strut. Not sure if it was front or rear. This may be what the NZ guys were using? Road and Track in Queensland (terryo on this forum, or Terry O'Beirne) was involved in those Google threads hence my mentioning him. He runs a reputable tuning modification business up there on modern and older Toyotas amongst others. Terry also runs at least one original FXGT AE82 Group A car in historic touring cars and built up the KE15 race car the Toyota Heritage Facebook guy runs. He would know how to do the front. Perhaps talk to him? Perhaps you need to bite the bullet and pay the money to the NZ guys? The difficulty you will otherwise have is locating a set of the right AW11 inserts independently. The rear is much easier, your primary concerns are length and stroke and diameter isn't a restriction. I've sourced some TRD rears and also some KYB 8 ways from Japan. Used but in good condition. But I can't imagine you will have any issues sourcing escort items in UK. I can measure length and stroke on my rears if required. Then just get your rear springs reset.

Strut insert manufacturers make a product for a given application and list it. They have no need to give a variety of dimensions as there is no need. A tiny fraction of people in the world are trying to do what you are and want that info. And when your vehicle is over 40 years old, you have virtually no hope. Consider yourself fortunate even finding a listing for it. Quite seriously, over years on forums, it would have to be the most common question I have seen asked for various models. Especially AE86's and KE70 etc. In my AE86 which has larger diameter struts than KE20, I've got SW20 inserts in the front which took a lot of research to work out. I can't remember if they are fronts or rears, which isn't relevant to you, but someone saying they did this or they did that - people forget and stuff it up. There is so much misinformation flying about. In the end I got so confused and did what I should have done in the first place and asked Gabe at technotoytuning. He manufactured the special non standard gland nut you need with these struts and also puts the strut at the bottom of the housing so you don't pound out the valves. In the rear I have Holden Commodore station wagon Bilsteins! Go to a specialist locally and get them to come up with something for you. Otherwise you basically need to accept the need to change your strut to something else which as previously advised is not quite so simple either. At least then you have a range of insert options. I am very confident your KE20 insert will be 38mm, but I don't have one I can measure.

Crikey, I'm sure you never saw that coming.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/47576-choice-of-aftermarket-ke20-shocks/ I did warn you they were too big. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-KE20-KE25-KE30-KE35-KE38-KE50-KE55-Front-Shock-Strut-Insert-KYB-/281873177453 If you ask nicely they may give you a diameter measurement

That's pretty rough. I presume you have done a dummy sit on the springs to see what your clearance is like. My non engineer thinking is you would shorten it evenly each side which would also include the drive shafts obviously. That is going to be expensive. Have you been to talk to a diff service to see how they would approach it? If they have some working relationship with the engineer, possibly they can work out an acceptable solution between them. If it helps in any way, I have a TE27 diff housing and axle set sitting here should you require any measurements.

This one is from a KE2x

There is a little threaded "nut" that winds up the threaded switch shaft from the knob side and pulls the switch into the console firmly. In earlier models it is a round aluminium looking job with two drilled points on the face you can tighten with the prongs of a long nose pliers. Later models had a plastic nut you do up with a spanner. I'm tipping from your photo you need the earlier type. I'll put up a picture when I get home if someone doesn't do so first.

Best bet is likely to be Yahoo Japan auctions. Never a common item so you will struggle. There was a TRD manifold available. Whichever buying service you use, I suggest you seek assistance with the search terms within yahoo. Import Monster can be very helpful in this regard.

Now that's unfortunate. Hopefully the damage isn't too bad

The majority of contributors here (but by no means all) are Australian. As we only ever had one Corolla model commercially available with a 3T engine (TE72), and no 2T engines except in TA22/TA23 Celica's, the reality is that you will find very few 2T/3T builds on a Corolla forum. Additionally, 2TG's were easily available here thanks to Japanese part importers bringing them in for many years through the 80's especially. Therefore many people going to the not insubstantial effort to fit a T engine in a Corolla originally fitted with a K engine put a 2TG in. For Australian forums, you may have more luck on a Celica centered forum.

When I ran a Malpassi on my AE86, I ran it as a direct replacement for the factory regulator. It came with a fitting that bolted to the fuel rail in place of the standard regulator, and a vacuum pipe went to the regulator which I mounted on a bracket off the firewall. It gave an instantaneous response when you touched the throttle, but I found it a little abrupt and eventually removed it.

Those photos were very helpful. I went out and measured. The transmission tunnel hole is located identically in both the KE25 MTM car and in the TE27. After some slight heart palpitations, I checked my stock of 3 early T50's. All of these came from TA22's and all have the short extension housing as in your bottom photo showing the clean T50. Presumably the one you had initially with the shifter further back on the extension housing was from a later TE7x chassis? One thing to check, is whether your transmission has a 20 spline output shaft, or 22 spline output shaft. 20 spline is early, 22 late. Will obviously be relevant with respect to your tailshaft. At least you know that if you come across a T50 from a TA22 in future, it will bolt straight in.

Great write up Luke. It is really coming along. I a little surprised by your problems with the T50. I wasn't aware that they are different between a TA22 and a TE27. I'll measure up the hole in the transmission tunnel for the TE27 and KE25 tomorrow and see if there is any difference. Did you actually dummy it up with the shifter in place and a seat in position? Or was it an issue with the hole in the floor?

Don't be scared of it, a lot easier than you think as long as you take your time. Make sure you use the correct size screw drivers etc, and don't stick anything metallic inside any jets etc

I blame facebook. But after having to reload all my older photos from imageshack links in the past, I had long given up on them. I think most forums let you direct upload these days.

The over run may be a fiddled with dashpot on the throttle body. A lot of the idle issues are down to not running the idle up circuit, so running various accessories, lights etc really messes with the idle. Most people try and get round this by cranking the idle speed up which causes other problems. For years I got used to sitting with one foot blipping the throttle at lights ready for the sudden stall. When I eventually fitted the idle up circuit as part of the charge loom, transformed the car. Edit, there is also a small air bleed in the throttle body intake just where the butterfly closes. This often gets clagged up. A good clean of this can also do wonders. If you struggle obtaining the gaskets, you will find them in the gasket library. The ICSV gasket is a couple of mm thick.

Amen to that. Couldn't agree with you more Peterd and Banjo. I started exactly the same as you, no mechanical knowledge, just an interest in cars and keen to learn. No internet in those days, actually there were no accessible computers either. Just a bunch of mates to encourage each other and make the occasional mistake. That's what makes Rollaclub strong, essentially a bunch of mates with a common interest. It's a place where you feel safe to stick your head above the parapet without worrying about getting shot at. If you want that plus gratuitous swearing, head across to Facebook.

That is true. But if you put starter relay mod into google, what comes up. Or does Duffman spend half an hour writing it up and drawing diagrams.

Awesome. Awaiting photos of said picnic tables!