parrot

Essentially the answer is that there is an early and late front, with different bonnets, bonnet trim, under grill trim corner garnish and so on. Model change occurred from August 1972. Yours is an early model. A TE27 is your body shell with a vast range of options and trim levels from a 1400 T engine all the way through to 1600 2TG's. Put simply the coupe chassis with a T engine. Most of these model options were available in Japan only. US also had TE27 variant but with a 2T rather than a 2TG

Welcome! A bit of work there but looks like you are well on the way. Your're in NZ at a guess? You might want to consider relocating the battery across to the passenger side like on a TE27 whilst you are doing your welding work, unless you intend putting it in the boot. Will give more room for induction setups. And yes, worth putting the engine away for a rainy day. And be careful of the accelerator cable, and cable clamp - They are twin carb specific and very hard to find.

No luck sourcing a cam for you today sorry, he didn't have one.

I don't personally know. The PGI Windsreen catalogue lists the following KE30, 36, 38, 55 TT148 Bottom width 1339 Centre height 595 KE35 TT151 Bottom width 1338 Centre height 586

And I thought I was the best dad in the world

I couldn't meet up with that guy last weekend, but it is on for this Saturday. No idea if he actually has one, but you never know

I've always had the understanding that "old" motors are meant to use higher viscosity mineral based oils, and I only use 20W50 oil in the K & T motors. But I grew up in the era when that was all we had and that's pretty much what they came with from factory, at least in Australia where most of us are only aware of snow as something you see on TV nature documentaries. Have never really understood why thinner, synthetic oils with friction modifiers and so on are so "bad" for these types of motors. I have this vague notion that it has to do with tighter tolerances in "modern" engines. But as to whether there is a basis in fact I couldn't say. Mind you, when the 4AGE first appeared in 1985, it was said to be a non rebuildable engine, and all us K & T engined people wondered why you would ever buy a car with one.

Also loved the wade 169 grind when I had it in my 2T. Very tractable, good power increase, and no problem as a daily driver. It really benefited from having twin side draft webers, but was also very good with a 28/36 DCD downdraft I ran for a while. This with moderate compression, extractors and a post and polish. It used to really scream!

Change the sender, or ideally put an oil pressure gauge in it. Otherwise there is no way of knowing.

I would also swap out the switch. Cheap, easy and the probable culprit. Had one fail in a mk1 Escort once. Similar to what you describe. Caused much angst for what turned out to be a $10 fix

And your exchange rate will be good too

Actually I hope to pickup a couple of K heads off a guy on Sat. If he has a cam in reasonable shape I'll see if I can grab it.

I brought an AE86 axle back in my backpack from the UK in the days before the internet (and todays heightened concerns). The look on the face of the xray guy at Heathrow was priceless. But yes, surely someone has a cam they are willing to basically give you as the basis of a regrind. They may even be willing to get it ground for you seeing as though you are a respected member of the forum! I don't have any K cams out of a motor, or I would happily help you out.

And don't call me Shirley

I'd be surprised if new k blanks were still available. Surely it's a matter of a cam shop welding up and regrinding an old cam. Years back in the early 90's, Wade's (big cam grinder - now closed) got some 4age blanks in. And that was unusual then. There must be someone in the us can repair and grind your cam surely?

Big end specs already noted above. As KE70dave notes in your other thread, best value $35 you will spend on your car.

The pressure was on there for a minute Yes I love a good Toyota manual and have a fair collection here, though I doubt I will ever use the Toyota 700 one. They are great to flick through though, and someday, someone will want to know something.

Well yes actually. But once again you didn't specify which model. I expect better of you KE70dave : ) If you scroll down, there are various power units you can download the manuals for. http://www.theshermantank.com/downloads-page-the-place-for-things-to-big-to-post-like-manuals/ Mains See below Big ends: sequence is irrelevant 29 - 37 ftlb Head

Yes For which engine?

Various aftermarket stuff is available, but the Bosch stuff is easy so no point hunting anything else down.

Draglink, not steering rack. Either something is bent, or someone has fitted the wrong model pitman arm and or idler arm to one which is too long.

It depends on what struts you have. They may not bolt up to your steering arms. There are 2 bolts that go through the steering arms and bolt to the base of the strut.

Actually I looked at what you sent me again. It was XT130 lower control arms, not struts. Without knowing what struts you have, it's impossible to say what steering arms you need. Is the seller on here? Probably